Southern and Eastern Flank of Monte San Giorgio, from Mendrisio to Riva San Vitale

Sunday November 9, 2025 -- Today the forecast was only good for south of the Alps (Wallis, Graubünden, Ticino), but going to Wallis and Graubünden means traveling at least 7 hours altogether, for what might only be a 3-hour walk... so we chose the South Ticino again, as we can be there in just two hours.

We chose to walk on the east side of Monte San Giorgio, from Mendrisio to Tremona, a short piece which we had not done before, even though we had walked many other trails here on the south side of the Mountain. (Monte San Giorgio is one of Switzerland's UNESCO Heritage Sites). It was a relatively easy hike uphill through vineyards and olive groves, nice forest trails, and then a descent through the forest again to the south end of Lake Lugano at Riva San Vitale, which I have long wanted to visit because of the large cathedral there. (Which ended up being closed, i.e. only open for viewing from April to October!) 

As it turns out, the air was very hazy, which doesn't happen a lot in this part of the country, so visibility wasn't great. Which was OK, because it wasn't a "view" hike. (Fortunately we didn't go up a mountain!). So not the most successful outing, but we had mild temperatures, fresh air, sunshine and exercise, plus only having to travel for just over two hours each way. 

At 10:15, our train from Lugano to Mendrisio passes the southern end of the lake with a view to Riva San Vitale where we are ending our hike. Even though the hillside where we descended was in shadow later that day, we chose to start our hike in Mendrisio, as there was less ascent and we wouldn't have the sun in our eyes 

Starting in Mendrisio at 10:20, we are headed to Tremona by way of Rancate. 

Judging by the size of the trunk, this must be a VERY old olive tree!

First thing was to take a detour via the church in Rancate, Chiesa di San Stefano.  

As it was a Sunday morning, there was in effect a Mass going on in the church in Rancate, so I snuck in the door quietly and took this one single photo. 

Walking around the alleys of Rancate before we head up the hill. 

From here, we head up the hill toward Tremona. 

In all, this was a 3½-hour walk, with a combination of forest and city roads. We started at 10:20 in Mendrisio, and got to the train station in Capolago at 2:30 p.m. 

A view over the rooftops of Rancate to the San Stefano church. The air is much hazier than expected, so we didn't have much of a distance view. 

Heading up through the vineyards at the south side of Monte San Giorgio, with a view of Monte Generoso. 

We were following a trail called "Viticulture and the Territory", with lots of interesting information about the local climate and other features. 

This region, called the Mendrisiotto, has a Mediterranean microclimate with some of the highest levels of sunshine in the country, and is ideal for viticulture. 

We saw many persimmon trees (also called Kaki or Sharon Fruit). The fruit is not often harvested, as it is very soft when ripe, and bruises easily. 

As in many places in Canton Ticino, there were many dry-stone walls. 

Interesting information about the dry-stone walls: The lack of mortar allows drainage of the surrounding ground. The panel makes mention of a marble quarry in Arzo, which is a town near the Italian border, where we ended another hike at the foot of Monte San Giorgio in April 2017. 

It was a pleasant and easy uphill walk, mostly on this forest trail. 

More olive groves. 

Still some colour in the gardens! These are such pretty flowers. They are apparently called Gazanias. 

Having now reached the outskirts of Tremona, we can see the mountains in Italy, as this is very close to the border. The "horn" on the right is called "Poncione d'Arzo" and it is on the flank of this mountain where the Arzo Marble Quarry is located. 

More persimmons trees with unharvested fruit. 

Here we are in the main part of the village of Tremona. Even though we have passed through here twice before, we still went into the parish church (Santa Maria Assunta) for a quick look. 

Interior of the Santa Maria Church in Tremona. This church dates from the 17th Century. 

Other details of the parish church in Tremona. 

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As it was just noon, the church bells started ringing, and it's very loud when you are standing right there! (And this was just the end of it!)

The village of Tremona was first mentioned in documents of 864. During excavations in the hillside above the village in 1991, artifacts from the Neolithic, Copper and Iron Ages were discovered, as well as remnants of an actual Medieval settlement, which appears to have been abandoned since the 14th Century. We didn't go up there this time, as we had a very good look at these ruins on a hike we did through here in December 2021.

Lunch break in the sunshine before continuing up the hill above Tremona, but along an alternate path instead of via the excavations on Monte Castello. 

There were some very nice trees up this way!

This is a stone pine, a very Mediterranean-type tree! (This is where pine nuts come from). 

A pleasant walk through the forest just west of the Castello hill. 

And now the first look at the village of Meride. As we have been here several times before, including when we started here to walk up to the summit of Monte San Giorgio in March of 2023 (photos HERE), we didn't detour into the village this time. 

Close-up look at the village of Meride. We have tried looking into both churches, but they are both locked. (The back one, in any case). There is a fossil museum here, which we have not visited. Monte San Giorgio is one of Switzerland's 13 UNESCO World Heritage Sites due to all the fossils that have been found here. 

A view to the east to Monte Generoso. 

This junction here is part of so many themed trails! No.7: "Via Gottardo2 / No.2: "Trans Swiss Trail" / No.52: "Sentiero Lago di Lugano" / No.636: "Sentiero del Monte San Giorgio" (We are continuing on Number 52 back down to Riva San Vitale). 

The vineyards of Meride. 

These are the more modern dry-stone walls! It has become popular again to build these.

Now is the long stretch down through the forest to valley bottom at Riva San Vitale. There was now more shade on this side of the hill as what we would have had, had we started on this side. 

An interesting section of trail, unfortunately in shadow now. 

Descent on the forest trail. 

Near the valley bottom now, with a look over the roofs of the town of Riva San Vitale. 

Two bell towers up ahead. (Obviously we stopped at both of them, but we could not find our way into the first building). Apparently, Riva San Vitale was "one of the oldest centers of the diocese of Como, to which it belonged until 1884/88. From here, Christianity spread into the Ticino" (Wikipedia). 

Also up ahead, a zoomed view of the top of the Santa Croce (Holy Cross) church, which is visible from afar, especially when you travel along the east side of the lake. (This was my main reason for coming here this day, but apparently the building is only open from April to end of October!)

It's just always nice to see palm trees here!

The first church we came to is called "Oratorio di San Rocco". We could not find a way inside. There were two doors, both without handles. This was surprising to us. It looked like the building is no longer in use. 

Information about the "Oratorio di San Rocco": Documented in 1579, it was enlarged in 1665. (Other information translated from the Internet: "Among the particularly valuable features of the oratory, in addition to the façade with its intricately elaborate moldings in a decidedly 17th-century style, are the stunning balustrades and the main altar, crafted from polychrome marble in a distinctly Baroque style, where the use of Arzo marble is clearly visible."). 

Just a short distance down the road was the next huge church building: "Chiesa Arcipredale" (Translates to "Church of the Deanship", or better: Parish Church of San Vitale!). This one we could look inside. 

A view to the summit of Monte Generoso. 

This building is a late Baroque construction from 1756 to 1759. 

Inside of the parish church

Details of the interior of the parish church. 

A view to the organ side of the church. 

More interesting even was the small building next to the larger church: It is called an "Early Christian Baptistry", dates from the early 6th Century (!!) and is the oldest, fully preserved Christian monument in Switzerland!

The Christian Baptistry. This building dates from the 6th Century! This is the oldest, fully preserved Christian monument in Switzerland!

Inside the baptistry, some very old frescoes! And a very, very large tub. 

In the center of town, a sign points to the Santa Croce church, which is what we mainly came for!

Imagine our surprise then, that the building is only open from 1st of April to 31st of October! I guess we will have to plan another trip in this direction!

The Temple of Santa Croce (Holy Cross), was built in the mid 16th Century and is visible from far and wide. It is one of the most interesting pieces of Renaissance architecture in Switzerland. 

A look behind us at the Santa Croce Temple, as we make our way down to the lake. 

This here is called Capolago, or "Head of the Lake", as it is the southernmost part of Lake Lugano (on this arm). The view is northwards to Melano on the waterfront and Rovio higher up. In November 2023, we walked down from Rovio, via Melano, to the train station here in Capolago, where we are headed now. (The trail was damaged due to storms, and we reported it at the time, and now it is marked as impassible). 

As it was now only 2:15 p.m., we could have stayed longer to enjoy the sunshine, but we don't like simply sitting around, so we headed for the train station to catch the 14:38 train, for the two-hour trip home. 

14:32 at the train station in Capolago... The train comes at 14:38! A two-hour trip home. 

What our hike looks like on Google Satellite Maps

These are all the hikes we have done in the region around Mendrisio and Monte San Giorgio. This is very close to the Italian border. In fact, the green loop trail shown at bottom right was a hike we did to the very southernmost point in Switzerland in July 2017. 

Location of Mendrisio within Switzerland.