High Valley Frisal in the Surselva: One of the most Beautiful Alpine Valleys

Sunday October 12, 2025 -- After a four-hour hike in the Obersaxen-Mundaun region of the Surselva the day before (photos HERE), we spent a very restful night in the Rhätia Hotel in Ilanz, and headed to the station for the 8:33 train for our second day's adventure: A hike to the high alpine valley of Frisal, possibly the most beautiful alpine valley in the entire Alps (not just Switzerland). This valley is part of the inventory of low moors and glacier forelands of national importance. It has been Urs' wish for a long time to hike to this upper plateau, and was the main reason for our two-day trip to this area. 

As it was only a 26-minute trip from the hotel to Brigels (instead of the usual 3+ hours from home), we had time for a leisurely breakfast at the local "Gabriel Café" before heading to the Burleun chair lift, saving ourselves 300 meters of an uphill walk to start this four-hour hike. The loop tour can be done in two directions, and we chose to start with the steep ascent section, which was a good thing, as it was a quite a muddy trail (and it was so warm I had to change into shorts again). The view into this beautiful valley after hiking over two hours was definitely spectacular, as was the return hike along the Flembach River on the way back to Brigels. Even though we started early, we did still have to walk in the cold shadow of the mountain for about 45 minutes on the way down.

Definitely a successful and memorable hike with perfect temperatures and visibility. 

Side note: We had been here in Brigels back in June of this year on a 15-km high trail hike (photos HERE) and just one day too early for the start of the summer season of this chair lift. At that time, though, it would have cost us 17 Fr. each to ride it, but with one overnight in the region, we got this for free with the local guest card!

After a good night's sleep in the Rhätia Hotel in Ilanz, we had only a couple of minutes to walk to the train station for our 8:33 trip (by train and bus) to Brigels. (This photo is near the train station). 

Even though our hotel was only two minutes from the train station, Urs needs to be 10 minutes early. So I crossed the station to the river for an early morning photo of Ilanz and the peaks where we had walked the day before, just receiving the first rays of sunshine!

A 13-minute train ride and then a 10-minute bus ride, and we are on the way to Brigels, the start of this day's hike. This is so much better than first traveling 3½ hours to get to the start of the hike! 

The bus passes through a village called Dardin with some pretty houses. On our June hike, we also passed via Dardin, but above the village. (Photos HERE). 

By 9 a.m. we reached Brigels, where we had planned to have our breakfast. The bakery here (where we also had lunch on our June hike via Brigels), was open on Sunday, so it was very convenient for us. 

The bakery offered a breakfast special for 9.50 Fr. which included a coffee, two rolls, butter and jam. We realized too late that this was more expensive than to order the coffee and rolls separately! Nevertheless, it was a tasty breakfast, and Urs even added a Vermicell (chestnut paste) dessert to his breakfast!

At 9:30 a.m. we said good-bye to the bakery and headed off to the chair lift, a 1-km walk from the town center.  

Up ahead is the valley we are ascending, but starting from 300 meters up the hillside on the right. (On the way back we walked all the way back to Brigels via the little church on the hill). 

A look behind us we reach the base station of the Burleun chair lift. 

The 10-minute chair lift ride would have cost us 17 Fr. each, but it was free with our guest pass, a pass you receive when you spent at least one night in the Ilanz region. 

Pretty village of Brigels on this sunny hillside. This is also a popular ski resort. 

On the way up with the chair lift, we get a good look at the large massif on the north side of the Frisal Valley. The distinctive peak is called Kistenstöckli.

A view down at the town of Brigels from the summit station near the Burleun restaurant and the start of our hike. 

It's 10:00 and we are off to follow Trail no.678: "Hochtal Val Frisal".

Starting at 10:00 at the top of the chair lift, it should take one hour to the junction at Chischarolas, another 90 minutes and a steep uphill walk via Alp Nova to the east side of Val Frisal, and another 2 hours back down to Brigels. We got back to Brigels at 4 p.m. with enough time for refreshments before the 16:25 bus. 

As we start into the valley, we look down at the road which we will be walking on the way back out later in the afternoon. 

Heading into the valley "with no name". The forest on the left is apparently the highest spruce forest in Europe. 

From this junction, almost everybody else doing this hike continued up the valley along the river, which is the route we took on the way down. We preferred to do the steep uphill section first, on the other side of the river. It was so warm by now that I had to change into my shorts!

The river which flows down this valley is called the Flem. It flows from all the rivers on the upper moorland in the Frisal Valley, then flows via the lake at Brigels to join another river at Waltensburg, and enter the Rhine at the village of Rueun. 

We got to this junction at 10:54, exactly an hour after starting at the summit of the chair lift. The sign indicates that we should reach the Frisal Valley in 1½ hours by going in this direction. 

A steep uphill climb, and it was quite a hot climb! There was water flowing down some sections which made the trail muddy, so we were glad we chose to go uphill first!

There were only two houses on the way up here at Alp Nova: The owners of this one were enjoying this beautiful day in the mountains and inviting the hikers to join them for a coffee and some conversation! We declined, but the two hikers behind us accepted the invitation!

By now my water bottle was already empty, but I found this great little creek to fill it up with.... and boy is this the best, ice cold water you can imagine!

After an hour and an uphill climb of 355 meters, we finally reached the level trail, from where we still have to walk 30 minutes to the Frisal Valley. We could have gone still higher to Alp Nova Sura and to a look-out peak high above the valley, but this would have added another hour to an already pretty long hike!

From here we look directly past the roofs of the two houses at Alp Nova, and out of the valley to the Piz Mundaun ridge which we had walked the day before!

Final stretch now toward Val Frisal. 

(12:26) First look into this beautiful high moor valley created by the glaciers, and it definitely is stunning! The Frisal Valley is three kilometers long and it is possible to walk into this high plateau on the north side (which we did not do). 

We found a great place to take a break now, and spent 45 minutes here admiring this view. After all, this was a goal we have been planning for a long time!

Description of the Frisal Valley Plateau. 

As the minutes passed, the shadow of the mountains shifted and we could see more of the winding rivers. This is a glacier foreland of national importance. 

A closer look at the glaciers at the back of the valley. The water comes from there. 

We then headed down to the valley bottom to cross the river and start on the trail back down to Brigels. 

We still found a few little colourful blooms here!

At 1:30 p.m. we started down the valley now, following the Flem River the whole way. It was all downhill from here. Our map shows that this should be less than two hours to return to Brigels. 

View behind us as we head down the valley on the less steep trail!

The Flem River; the water flow was rapid here, and the noise of the river is something I just love. 

Our hike follows the Flem River all the way back down to Brigels. 

Navigating the streams. I had filled up my bottle once again with the wonderful ice-cold water, direct out of the mountainside!

Ahead of us is another plateau with a moor landscape, but a very small one!

On the mountainside where we had originally hiked to the Frisal Valley, I spotted a single splotch of yellow colour! It looks neat in this brown landscape. 

Very much enjoying our walk down the valley along the Flem River. 

Out of the valley I have recognized the summit station of the Stei Chair Lift where we had descended on the hike the day before. 

At 2:45 p.m. we were back at the bridge where we had started on the uphill part of the hike. We are passing through the spruce forest now, but had to walk in the shadow of the mountain.  (We walked very quickly from then on!)

At 3:30 p.m. we got to the Saint Eusebius church which you can see on the hill from the village. We took a long break on a bench here before continuing back into the town of Brigels. This chapel supposedly has some very nice frescoes, but it is locked, and you have to get the key from a hotel in town if you want to have a look inside. 

Down below is Lake Brigels, and we can see the Flem River below flowing into the lake (which is actually a reservoir lake). Across the valley is the crest which we had walked the day before, from Piz Mundaun on the left to Stei on the right. (Photos HERE).

And from up here next to the chapel, we get this really nice look over the town of Brigels. 

Far below us is the funny little building with grass on the roof, which is part of a small museum (we saw it up close when we were here in June). 

Nice fall colours

St. Eusebius church is a pilgrim church, first mentioned in documents of 1135. By the mid 17th Century, it was well-visited by many sick people hoping for miraculous healing.  

Entering Brigels from the north again, along the main street. 

Another look up the main road to the valley and chapel where we descended from. 

Another stop at the bakery for refreshments before heading to catch the bus. We had lots of time this time, as it was only 4 p.m. and the bus was expected at 16:25.

Parish church in Brigels. (We had a look at it in June when we were here last time, so we didn't go in this time.)

A look up into the valley where we descended via the little chapel on the hill. 

This also is a part of the village museum!

What our hike looks like on Google Satellite Maps. 

Now headed back down to the railway line by bus at 16:25

Just before reaching the train station, the bus passes through a little village called Danis, where the narrow streets sometimes cause quite the traffic congestion. 

And now down at the Tavanasa / Brigels train station at 16:39. (Side note: As our connecting train wasn't coming for another 30 minutes, we rode the train in the opposite direction for one station (Trun) before returning this way). 

The little church in Danis looks very cute up on the hill, seen from the train. 

These are the hikes we have done around this part of the Surselva Region. 

And now the train passes via Ilanz again on the way to Chur. 

It's always a treat to ride the train through the Rhine Gorge. 

Late afternoon atmosphere

Stunning stone pyramids where the Rhine River has carved out the canyon for the past 10,000 years, when the largest known landslide in Switzerland occurred here, filling up the entire valley. 

The beautiful Rhine Gorge. 

VIDEO:

Crossing the Rhine River by train in the Rhine Canyon

Late afternoon in the Rhine Valley. We were home by 8:15 p.m. 

Location of Val Frisal and this part of the Surselva near Ilanz.