Crest Hike from Monte Lema to Passo d'Agario and Arosio near Lugano

Tuesday July 28, 2025 -- It's been raining for a couple of weeks now, so we can't do the mountain hikes we have been planning for this summer. For this week, though, the weather forecast in the southern Canton of Ticino was for lots of sunshine, although quite hot in the lower elevations. But there are also mountain hikes we can do there, so we went off toward Lugano to walk part of the popular Monte Lema to Monte Tamaro ridge hike.

Because we had done this whole stretch from Alpe Foppa in the north to Monte Lema in the south (15 kilometers and a total of over five hours of hiking) in October 2014, we did only a five-kilometer stretch along the ridge this time, starting at the summit of Monte Lema and heading north. Once we got to a pass called Passo d'Agario, from where you can descend both on the Italian and Swiss side of the crest, we then descended to the mountain village of Arosio (Swiss side), from where we caught a bus down a spectacular zigzag road to the train station in Lamone below. 

On our map, the trail we picked mapped as a four-hour hike, but mountain trails usually take longer. In any case, it took us six hours, and even though we had spectacular views along the ridge, clouds then quickly covered the sun on our descent, which included some very dark forests! We had planned to start earlier, but due to the masses of people traveling southwards this day, the trains had delays, we missed our connections, and also came home much later than expected due to rerouting of the train (with an over-filled train, it could not go via the base tunnel, and it took three hours to get home from Lugano instead of the normal two hours!).

Due to train delays, we missed our planned connection in Lugano, but were able to travel a different route to Miglieglia, and arrived at the Monte Lema cable-car station only 30 minutes later than originally planned (at about 10:20, for the 10:30 run).  

This is the charming village of Miglieglia, about 15 kilometers from Lugano at the foot of Monte Lema in the Malcantone Region. 

A look down at the roofs of Miglieglia as the cable-car now heads up to the summit. (Back in 2016 was the first time we came to this village, and had a good look around the beautiful church at the time.)

Heading up to the summit of Monte Lema, we pass the other cable-car on its way down. 

This cable-car consists of three separate cabins traveling together. (This is actually a nice contrast to the large cabins, as more people can actually see out the windows!)

We got to the summit at 10:50, and spent a few minutes up here admiring the scenery. 

From the cable car station, a view down to the Caslano arm of Lake Lugano. The mountain at the back on the right is in Italy. 

Before heading out on our hike, we went up to the restaurant terrace at the Monte Lema Restaurant/Hostel, to see the view from there. 

Panorama view from the Restaurant Terrace. On the left is the Lugano arm of Lake Lugano, on the right is the Caslano arm, and in the center is Monte San Salvatore, and behind that is Monte Generoso. 

The cable-car starts on its way down again, as the next group of people head up the mountain on this beautiful day. 

This was a long hike which we mapped out for this day, first for five kilometers along the crest north of the Monte Lema summit, and then descending to Arosio from Passo d'Agario. It maps as four hours, but takes somewhat longer. 

To walk the whole ridge to the cable-car station at Alpe Foppa takes five hours (That cable-car is being rebuilt this summer, so there is no cable-car access there). We are headed to Passo d'Agario and then down to Arosio. (Our trail was somewhat longer than four hours, because we took a longer option down). 

From the start of our hike below the restaurant, we look north toward Monte Gambarogno and the village of Indemini, which is the most southerly Swiss village in this valley. Below us here and the left half of the photo is Italian landscape. 

Far to the west we see the snow-covered peaks of the 4000+ meter mountains in the Mischabel Group in Canton Valais. I believe the peak on the left is Mount Dom, at 4546 meters the highest peak wholly located on Swiss ground. 

And now we head off on our hike for the day, with our first uphill section visible ahead of us. 

A look behind us now at where we started our hike at the little building in the center of the photo. There is a trail to the observatory at the summit, which is where most other people walked up to. We felt we would have enough other views without an extra climb up there. 

As we got to the highest point of the first climb, we got the first view of the Monte Rosa massif to the west, where the highest peak in Switzerland is located, the Dufour Peak. (4634m). This peak is shared with Italy. Behind the massif is the Matterhorn, which we cannot see from here. 

The ridge trail continues on the right, and from here we can see the valley where we want to descend, below the peak called Gradicciòli .

Looking below us to the west is a valley called Valle Veddasca. The highest village in this valley, Indemini (on the right) is the only village in Switzerland. The rest of this landscape is all in Italy and the border with Italy is just below where we are standing. There is an interesting story about the first village below us here.... 

This italian mountain village near the Swiss border is called Monteviasco. It is accessed from the valley road below via a long, steep trail of over 1400 steps. Until 2018 there was a cable-car to reach this village, but it was shut down due to a fatal accident. The villagers have been waiting for repairs for years, but things take a long time to resolve in Italy. So now the villagers would like to join Switzerland, because they know the Swiss will repair the cable-way faster! There used to be three restaurants and 400 people here, but now only about six people live in the village. (See also this Facebook Post)

Urs is enjoying the view to the west into Valle Veddasca in Italy (border is right here below where we are standing) and further to the west to the Monte Rosa Massif in Canton Valais, Switzerland. 

Now a better view of the Monte Rosa Massif

This is a nice place for a photo!

All along the crest we had views to the east to Lugano and past Lugano into Italy again. 

The crest trail goes up and down a few times. Makes it very interesting, but takes longer because you have to "navigate" rocks and steps.  

Here you can really see how the trail follows the crest. Later we walked through the forest below Monte Ferraro on the right as we descended that valley toward Arosio. 

Behind us was a group of four Italians who had also started on this walk from Monte Lema. There was a non-stop chatter from these men.... Italian people like to talk and they are very loud. So we stopped here to let them pass us and get far enough ahead so that we didn't hear them any more. We have to do that once in a while in the mountains. I cannot understand why people come into the mountains to non-stop chatter, instead of enjoying the majesty in silence. 

...and then what often happens is that we catch up to the talkers again, because they decide to stop for a break! There they are on the trail on the left, so we waited again. I took the opportunity to take a panorama photo. And then later we detoured to the peak on the left to eat our sandwiches. (Not a real trail, we had to make our way through high grass). 

Continuing on after our picnic break at 12:30

We often look behind us to see what we have walked so far. 

Down below now we can see the village of Arosio where we are ending our hike. The red line shows approximately where we walked through the forest to get there.

Continuing along this very nice trail heading north. In the background is a mountain called Gradicciòli, which also has a trail along its ridge, but we descended on the south side of that mountain. 

Here we have reached the Agario Pass, where there is a small hut where you can get some refreshments. Our trail heads down to the right, and the regular ridge walk to Monte Tamaro goes straight up the hill there (also up to Gradicciòli). And then there is another trail heading down on the left (past the hut) to that isolated village of Monteviasco.

Posing at the Passo d'Agario! Behind me is a mountain called Monte Ferraro, and later we walked to the clearing above my head on the photo, and then down the flank of Monte Ferraro. 

Here is a little hut with picnic tables and benches and self-serve refreshments. But there were noisy Italian people here as well, so we headed up to above the hut to a bench we had seen on our way here. 

Enjoying a break on the bench we saw above the little hut. From here we get a view into the Valle Veddasca again, and most of the Italian part of Lago Maggiore. We stayed here for only about 10 minutes, as one of the Italian ladies came up from the hut, smoking a cigarette (!!!!) and sat right next to us! (Besides all the chatter in the mountains, I will never understand people smoking up here.) 

Our view from the little bench down the Veddasca Valley to the Italian part of Lago Maggiore. (The northern part of this lake is within Switzerland, notably the city of Locarno). 

Now we head down the east side of the pass into the valley of the same name: Val d'Agario, with the summit of Monte Ferraro ahead of us. You can even see the trail to the clearing on the left, which we are going to walk up to later. 

A short way below the pass is Alpe Agario, from where there are three different options to get to Arosio. The two shorter versions go directly along the valley bottom. We usually prefer to stay higher up, so we are heading to "La Bassa", which is the clearing near Monte Ferraro, also a kind of pass. It is now 1:40 p.m., and we have already been on the trail for two hours 40 minutes, so just half-way!

About 25 minutes later, we got to Alpe Nisciora. From here the second valley trail descends. (To Mugena, then Arosio). This was one of only two other buildings we passed on our way down. 

It was a kind of "scrubby" landscape here within the Agario Valley

By now (2:30 p.m.), clouds had moved in, and cast shadow on the crest where we had walked early. This was a rare moment that the sun shone on the crest above us. 

Looking down the Agario Valley. The whole hillside here was full of ferns. 

Having reached the clearing at "La Bassa", the clouds have cleared enough for the sunshine to give us a nice view of the crest where we had walked (Monte Lema is not visible, as it is further to the south). At the arrow on the right is the Agario Pass, where we started our descent. 

Now we have entered the long stretch of forest along the western flank of Monte Ferraro. With a bit of sunshine it was very pleasant, but without the sun, very dark. (It made me think of the stories of the Middle Ages when robbers would hide in the dark forests and wait for travelers). 

Many such "cliffs" along the mountain flank below the peak of Monte Ferraro. 

Look at the size of these roots!

That tree looked much bigger when we approached it from the left side!

It was altogether a 400-meter descent on this forest trail until we reached the paved road at the south end of the mountain, but it was so gradual that we didn't really feel it. 

A lovely grove of birch trees.

One the east side of Monte Ferraro, we get a view across the Capriasca region north of the city of Lugano, and of the mountain range called Denti della Vecchia ("Old Lady's Teeth"). We hiked that ridge in May 2015 (no photos yet) but visibility wasn't great, so I want to do that hike again one day.  

On the last stretch to Arosio (along a paved road), we get this nice view of the city of Lugano, Lake Lugano, and Monte Generoso at the back, which forms a border with Italy. 

The houses of Arosio as we head to the bus stop (in front of the building with the Swiss Flag). 

Preparations for First of August festivities! (Celebration of Confederation). 

We got to the bus stop in Arosio at 5 p.m. and had to wait for 15 minutes. We didn't go into the church this time, as we had visited it the last time we were here, when we started a 10-km hike in January of this year (Photos HERE).  

I had time to admire my favourite house in Arosio, just as the sun came out. (We have been here several time). 

Artistic details on this house in the heart of Arosio. 

What our hike looks like on Google Satellite Maps, including the cable-way from Miglieglia to Monte Lema, and the road down from Arosio. 

At 17:18 the bus finally arrived, four minutes late..... 

I sat at the front of the bus next to the driver and witnessed how difficult it is for the bus to navigate down the narrow road through Arosio and then winding down to valley bottom... It being end of business day, people were headed home in their cars, and several cars rounded this corner at once, and had to find a way to back up again to let the bus go by, as even more cars came from behind! We lost a lot of time at several such corners. 

The road has about 20 switchbacks on the way from Arosio to Lamone at the valley bottom!

VIDEO:

Driving down 20 switchbacks from Arosio to Lamone!

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View of the valley bottom as we get closer to the bottom. 

Another traffic knot! The white car on the left is blocking the bus and needs to find a way to back up and get out of the way! (More cars are waiting around the corner). Even with all these jams, the bus got to the train station in time for our connection! I felt the bus driver should have gotten a commendation. Nevertheless, our trip home should have taken only 2½ hours, but because there were too many people on the train, they decided not to go through the base tunnel, which increased travel time by almost an hour.  

One of my favourite roads in Switzerland! (It's about 6 kilometers from Arosio to the train station in Lamone-Cadempino.)

These are all the hikes we have done in the area around Monte Lema, Monte Tamaro, the Malcantone and Capriasca regions near Lugano. 

Location of Monte Lema within Switzerland.