Rhine Riverside Trail from Koblenz to Bad Zurzach on the border with Germany

Monday April 28, 2025 -- Forecast for another nice week with lots of sunshine and temperatures in the mid-20's, and all this construction right next to our building means I have to leave home everyday if I want to avoid the noise.

This day turned out to be the perfect decision: I rode the train northwards to Koblenz on the Rhine River at the border with Germany, and starting from there, did a 9½-kilometer walk along the river on a themed trail called the "Via Rhenana", an altogether 195-kilometer trail along the Rhine River from Kreuzlingen at Lake Constance in the east, to Basel in the west.

There was a cool breeze blowing, and not at all too hot. Usually I can't manage more than about two hours on a riverside walk, and so this was just the right length for a level walk. Not too boring as the river winds some here, so the path is not simply long and straight. And the trail goes through a wetlands nature park called the "Aue Chly Rhy" ("Chli Rhy" = "Little Rhine") where I was surprised by a fantastic sight: A man-made sand bank with hundreds of holes, housing Bank Swallows that spend the winter in Africa and return here in the summer! I could have watched them for hours!

I started my walk in the village of Koblenz Dorf on the Rhine River at 9:50 in the morning. It only took 90 minutes by train to get here. 

Once down at the riverside, the sign shows that it should take two hours to walk to Bad Zurzach. I am walking on the Regional Trail no.60: Via Rhenana. 

Everything is beautiful and green now! There is an island here in the river called "Inseli" = "Little Island". 

Starting at 9:50 in Koblenz Dorf, I got to Bad Zurzach for the 1 p.m. train back to Koblenz. 

The first half of the walk was on a forest trail like this one. 

The Rhine River forms the border between Switzerland and Germany. So the land across the river is in Germany, and directly across here is a German River called Wutach, which enters the Rhine here. 

A section where the trees hide the view of the river on the left. The countryside is pretty. 

Grey geese flying past! I was able to get this pretty cool photo of them flying over the water.

A little detour down to the riverbank at the first bend where the river now heads south. It is very wide here, and not very deep!

Because this is near the border of Germany, there are many military bunkers along the way, leftover from WWII. Some had staircases giving access to platforms up above, for better views of the river. There were also information panels on each platform describing something about the military fortifications, or the landscape. 

Now I have reached the wetlands. There is a small and very sluggish side stream entering the Rhine here. The stream is called "Chly Rhy", or "Little Rhine". The farmhouse in the back is in Germany. 

Another military bunker which I can climb for a view. 

From the platform on top of the bunker, I get a nice view of the Chly Rhy River and the wetlands. 

A large placard gives information of the wetlands

There were only a few other people on the trail 

Crossing the Chly Rhy stream into the wetlands. 

From my map, I knew there was a viewing tower ahead, and I spotted a white crane-like bird at the top. After taking a dozen photos "before it flew away", I realized it wasn't a real bird at all!

I went up to the viewing platform and found my "mosaic crane". But I did see a real heron too, it had flown to the opposite side of the pond when I got there. There was a lot of noise of croaking frogs!

VIDEO:

Sounds of croaking frogs!

Walking through the Chly Rhy wetlands

There is another little island in the river here. Signs on the riverbank indicate that a bird called "Little Ringed Plover" nests here from April to July. This bird is endangered in Switzerland, and the island is off-limits during this time, and dogs must remain on a leash!

Such pretty flowers! Research shows they are called "Star of Bethlehem". 

At the far end of the nature reserve, I saw this intriguing sand bank with lots of flying action going on! As I got closer, I saw many swallows flying in and out of the site! The information placard indicates that these are called "Bank Swallows" (different than regular swallows) which spend the winter in Africa, but return here in spring.

VIDEO:

Watching the swallows fly in and out of the sand wall.

So much action on the sandbank!

Close-ups of these cute little birds!

In a swarm, the birds flew away from the sand wall, but only a very short distance, and returned in a group again. Is it possible that they can catch so many insects in such a small space? And were they feeding little ones hiding in the holes?

VIDEO:

The swallows flying back and forth to the sand bank.

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Leaving the wetlands park now, a look back at the sand wall. From here the trail heads eastward again. 

And then the river bends here again at the next large community on the German side: Kadelburg. 

Kadelburg looks cute and clean, and has two churches. It's on the German side of the river, but it looks like it might be worth a visit. 

Now I am long past the forested section. Here it is like a very nice promenade. 

Looking west past the lovely fields of rapeseed, the view is to the Swiss town of Rietheim. 

Hier at the Barz Ferry (it turns out that there is a ferry here to the German side) I have come about 90 minutes, and still have 45 minutes to go. 

This pontoon boat offers ferry services to the German side from May 1st to October 26th, on weekends from 2 to 5 p.m.! There was a ferry service here since 1550, but it was stopped in the early 1900's and then taken up again in 1972 for people (previously wagons were ferried across here as well) by the transport departments of Zurzach and Kadelburg.

The Barz mill existed in various forms (destroyed, rebuilt etc.) since mid 15th Century. In 1816 there were about 20 such mills in the Zurzach region, but now this one is the only remaining undamaged grain mill on the free-flowing part of the Rhine River. 

I sat here on a bench for a while, enjoying the view of the river and the swans and ducks on that log. 

Next to the river is this placard: "Historical Salt Road on the Rhine". Drilling for salt started in 1856, but success was only achieved in 1914. While drilling for the salt, they stumbled on a source of hot water, and so the mineral baths were "born" (Thus the name "Bad Zurzach"). 

Continuing southwards, I saw these structures to my right. It turns out these are called Salt Derricks, i.e. salt drilling towers. They were decommissioned in the 1970's, but one of them is now a museum. 

Salt derricks are a witness to the industrial era in this region. (See also the Bad Zurzach Website). 

Nice day and not too hot for a pleasant walk along the Rhine River. 

Before heading up to the train station in Bad Zurzach here, I had enough time for a nice self-timed photo on the Rhine River. 

Just before reaching the passage below the railway line, I came across this fancy-looking property, and the gate was open. Flyers inform passers-by that there is a sculpture display in this park, which everyone is welcome to view. So I made a quick tour of the park.

Castle in the park, Park Himmelrych

View down to the Rhine River from the park grounds. Across the river is Germany, a community called Rheinheim. 

Some of the sculptures on display in the park. 

I got to the train station at 12:59, just four minutes before the train was to return to Koblenz, an 8-minute ride. 

From the train station I could see the town church, which looked quite interesting. I then realized that there might be a really nice old part of town here (besides the mineral baths), but I was planning to take a detour to Waldshut in Germany (from Koblenz by bus at the moment) to make a few purchases. So the old town will be a goal for a different trip. 

What my walk looks like on Google Satellite Maps (the blue trail). We have also walked along Lake Klingnau a couple of times, ending in Koblenz and then spending some time in Waldshut across the border, where we go often to buy some cheaper goods and to have ice cream! (It is a very pretty town). 

Location of Koblenz within Switzerland, near the border with Germany.