On the Search for Heidi's Village in Bündner Herrschaft Wine Region

Wednesday November 27, 2024 -- Exactly one year ago we did a lovely hike in the Bündner Herrschaft region of the Rhine Valley in eastern Switzerland, a large wine-producing region and also known to be the inspiration for Johanna Spyri's popular story of Heidi.

Along the trail we walked at that time (from Malans near Landquart to Fläsch near Bad Ragaz, photos HERE), we saw signs reading "Heididorf" (i.e. Heidi's Village), which was the first we had ever heard of an actual tourist site dedicated to the book. But we didn't know how far off our path the detour would be, so we postponed a visit to a later date.

Well that date came today, as home was enveloped in fog yet again (after two sunny days here), and workers were in and out of our apartment, so on a whim I headed back in that direction... additionally, a weekend of strong Föhn winds and warm weather had melted the recent dump of snow there, and the trails were dry and clear.

I started in Fläsch where we had ended last time, and walked an 8-kilometer trail through colourful forests and vineyards back down to Maienfeld via the Heidi Village, which is actually a small hamlet called Ober-Rofels (and actually very close to where we had walked the year before, so a detour would have been totally do-able). The day was so mild that I could walk in a short-sleeved shirt! The only regret was that I should have started an hour earlier, as the sun had already gone down in Maienfeld where I boarded the train at 3:15 p.m., after only 2½ hours outside.

On every trip into Canton Graubünden we pass Lake Walensee and the Churfirsten mountains, and every time my excursion starts with a photo of this mountain range!

And every time I try to take a good photo of the castle in Sargans, as we pass this on the way in the direction of Chur.

This region between Sargans and Landquart is called the Bündner Herrschaft, a region with very many vineyards growing primarily Blauburgunder grapes (Pinot Noir). It is also known as Heidiland, because a small hamlet called Ober Rofels was the inspiration for Johanna Spyri's beloved story called "Heidi". (I started my walk in the village of Fläsch and walked via the Heidi Village to Maienfeld. The summer cabin which features in the story is higher up on the hill, and we plan to hike up there one day.)

I started in the village of Fläsch, where we ended a similar hike we did through this region exactly a year ago. I didn't go look at the church this time, as we visited it last time. Those photos are HERE.

In and around the village are vineyards and wineries.

In the small village of Fläsch are at least four wineries, based on these signs

Main part of the village, as I head up the hill.

A look up the steep hill behind the village of Fläsch.

This was a short walk for me, just two hours. But I started late, about 11:45 in Fläsch, and wanted to make sure to reach the train station in Maienfeld by 3:15 p.m., as the town was then already in shadow and I didn't want to wait there for a later train. I ended up doing an unnecessary detour, as I thought the Heidi Village was at Heidihof, but that was only a restaurant. The actual village is in Ober-Rofels.

Large acreages of vineyards in this region.

Leaving the village of Fläsch as I head south in the direction of the Heidi Village.

The forests are still colourful, and the sunshine is lovely

Clear skies for a good look at the snow-covered peaks past the city of Chur to the south. This little hut looked pretty cool, with that crow on the roof.

To the west is the city of Bad Ragaz from where I took a bus to Fläsch. This city was the end of a recent hike I made out of that side valley through the Tamina Gorge in August (Photos HERE)

My trail heads through this pasture to the forest below those mountains. It was always just very slightly uphill, hardly noticeable. It was warm enough to walk in just a short-sleeved shirt.

Gorgeous peaks form the border between Switzerland and Liechtenstein. There seem to be some old larches and Swiss Stone Pine here. Behind those peaks is a hidden valley called the Fläsch Valley, which we hiked to in July of this year (Those photos are HERE).

Pleasant stroll on soft forest trails.

I came upon this wide open clearing which was populated by some very large oak trees. Way at the back is the city of Chur, and the mountains of Canton Graubünden.

I had seen on my map that there was a look-out tower here, so obviously I had to climb up it!

A sign next to the tower states that it was built in 2015, and because it is made of metal, you have to be careful when it is raining, as it can be slippery. There are about 60 steps, and very little view at the top, as these large oak trees have grown past the height of the viewing platform!

Wide open clearing with many oak trees

As I continued southwards, I saw a couple of particularly large oak trees, especially that further one.

Look at the size of that tree trunk!

A self-timed photo to show how big that tree is!

Another view southwards down the Rhine Valley to the city of Chur

There also seem to be larches in these forests, still glowing yellow and not having lost all their needles yet.

A quick look around a small hamlet called Bovel. I had to do a detour from here as the path I was planning to take was blocked and off limits. (Not an actual public trail).

Ahead of me I saw some people walking on a trail that I was going to be going on later. It turns out this is the trail to the actual "Heidi Village".

At the main parking lot of the official "Heididorf" is actually only the restaurant called "Heidihof". It's interesting that you have to pass by the restaurant in order to walk to the village!

Some sculptures of Heidi, Peter and the goats welcome visitors to the entrance of "Heididorf" (Heidi Village).

After detouring through the parking lot to the restaurant, signs informed me that the village was a 6-minute walk on this trail. I could have saved some time by staying on the road below, instead of detouring to the restaurant.

Approaching the Heidi Village from the north. The building at the back is the town hall and serves as the school building in the Heidi story, where Heidi went to school in winter. The building on the left is simply a stable.

And this house at the north end of the village is the 300-year-old house which served as the inspiration for the story of Heidi, where she lived in winter and had to go to school. (She would have spent the summers in a cabin higher up on the mountain).

A panel next to the main door of the house informs that it was the local people and lifestyle which inspired Johanna Spyri to write her book. The buildings are accessible in summer and on Sundays in November and December. There is an information center where you can buy tickets.

Just by accident I noticed one of the "Grand Tour of Switzerland" frames in front of the building, and as the grounds were open, I managed a self-timed photo by putting my camera on a fence post!

A look at the main part of the village from Heidi's House.

The little village of about a dozen buildings is like an open air museum. The website has more information: https://www.heididorf.ch/en/info

It's 2:45 p.m. now, and I want to get to the train station in Maienfeld by 3:15. A final look back, and I can see the little house higher up which is a replica of the alpine cabin where the Grandfather lived with Heidi in summer, but higher up on the mountainside.

Down below is the town of Maienfeld, where I am going to catch the train back home. It was at this point from where we also descended to Maienfeld a year ago when we walked from the south. At that time we continued on to Fläsch, but did not go via the Heidi Village.

This time I have chosen a different road to walk, on my way down to Maienfeld. It turned out this road passed through a property whose owner has been fighting the city for years because he doesn't want cars, horses or people to pass by his house, which is built right next to the road. I wasn't expecting his signs forbidding pedestrians to pass on the road, as this is actually an official hiking trail and he is not allowed to forbid pedestrians. So I scooted through, because I would have missed the train, had I had to go back.

View across the vast vineyards on my way down to the town of Maienfeld.

Another look back up the hill where I came down from.

Entering the town of Maienfeld from above. From here I just follow the main road all the way down to the train station.

Roof profile

A sign tells me I am on a themed path called "Heidiweg" or "Heidi Trail".

The tower of the Maienfeld castle. I didn't spend any time walking around the town this time, as we did quite a detailed viewing when we were here a year ago (photos HERE).

I made it to the platform just as the train was pulling in! I was back home in two hours from here.

As viewed on Google Satellite Maps: The blue line is the hike we did a year ago, having come from Malans and Jenins to the south (from the right), passing via Rofels to Maienfeld, and continuing to Fläsch. This time I started in Fläsch (pink line), and heading up higher through the forest, and walking south to the Heidi Village, before continuing on to the train station in Maienfeld.