A 17-km Stretch along the Rhine River from Rheinau to Flaach

Saturday May 13, 2023 -- Very unstable weather in the past couple of weeks, so we have to be happy with a forecast that doesn't include rain! On this Saturday we chose a river walk along the Rhine River, starting in Rheinau near Schaffhausen, a small peninsula where the Rhine River forms a couple of loops along the the German border. (In fact, the peninsula here, although in Switzerland, is surrounded on three sides by Germany, and the country border is in the center of the river). The trail we followed is part of the regional trail no.60: Via Rhenana, a 195-km themed trail following the Rhine River from Lake Constance to Basel. 

Many years ago (those photos are HERE) we had done the section from Schaffhausen via the Rhine Falls to Rheinau--at that time part of the trail was flooded due to high waters, and we ran into rain at the end of the hike--so we chose to start where we had ended last and walk to the next public transit stop in Flaach, 15 kilometers further south! (With all the rain we've had lately, the river water was high, but no flooding on the paths yet).

Normally I don't enjoy river hikes, and even though there were some long straight stretches, many sections were along small trails, and there were enough interesting things to experience, like the quaint village of Rheinau, the former Rheinau Monastery on an island in the river there, the ferry at Ellikon, and one of the most important wetlands in Switzerland, the Thurauen (where the Thur River enters the Rhine River). A big disappointment was that the abbey church was not open for viewing (only limited hours, like 2-5 pm on Saturdays!).

Getting off the bus in the center of Rheinau Village at 10:15, we first took a walk up to the St.Niklaus "Bergkirche" ("mountain church", because it is on an elevation). The bus had been full of people with suitcases who walked down to the abbey. It seems there was a weekend event taking place there. 

This little church (built in 1578 on the location of the original 1126-built romanesque church) is unique in that it has three rounded additions, each containing an altar. 

Inside, this little church looks rather modern!

View over the roofs of Rheinau from the church yard and town wall

The entire hillside down to the Rhine rivershore is covered in grape vines

A look down at the former Abbey grounds on the island in the center of the river

I can even see the people with their suitcases!

Heading back into the village, we had a look at a very pretty restaurant called Wirstshaus zum Buck

On the main square just before crossing the river to the island is the "Staatskellerei Zurich", i.e. the Abbey's Wine Cellars, where they have been producing wine for many centuries from grapes grown by at least 100 farmers in 26 communities in Canton Zurich

Crossing the bridge to the island in the Rhine River

View of the front of the Rheinau Abbey from the bridge

There were two very large sequoia trees in the square in front of the abbey church

Somewhat disappointed to discover that the church is only open for viewing from 13:30 to 17:00 on Saturdays in May! (It is currently 11:00 a.m.). Besides, the sign says no photography allowed in the church....

Back in June 2016 when we walked from Schaffhausen to Rheinau (those photos are HERE), the church was open when we got there. This is a photo from that visit in 2016. I guess I didn't know that I wasn't allowed to take photos!

We walked to the easternmost tip of the island to see if the small chapel there at least was open. The view across the river is to the shore where we started our hike

I had never seen such an unusual pink-flowering tree! (I found out later this is a Tamarisk)

The Magdalena Chapel (or "Spitzkirche", which means "Church at the top/peak/point... of the island in this case) was indeed open, at least that. The information tells us this was built in about 1588

The opulent interior paintings were done about 1612

Fantastic paintings all over the inside of the Magdalena Chapel

Heading back to the bridge now to cross back to the mainland, to start on our walk around the top of the peninsula. By now we've already walked 2 km, before even really starting out!

On the peninsula side are buildings which were also part of the original Abbey. 

Down below is the narrow trail which we followed around the tip of the peninsula

The Rheinau peninsula (in Canton Zurich) is in Switzerland, but surrounded on three sides by Germany. The border between the two countries runs down the middle of the river. The former Benedictine Monastery was built on an island in the center of the river. 

A view of the abbey towers from the opposite side of the river

Details of the tops of the abbey towers

As we make our way past the island, we get a look at the "Spitzkirche", or "Church at the tip of the Island", the one with the opulent interior paintings. 

A last look at the island before heading around the tip of the peninsula

We are now entering the grasslands of the peninsula. The German term for this is "Au", and I guess that is where the name "Rheinau" comes from ("wetlands"/"meadow" of the Rhine River)

Fields are being prepared for spring planting. 

The flowers of the Rheinau peninsula meadows

Back around the peninsula now we reach the Rhine River where there is a bridge which crosses the river to Germany. This is one of several restaurants in the area! 

The Rheinau-Altenburg bridge is a rare trestle bridge, and even though this structure was built in 1806, there have been bridges at this location since mid-13th Century, having been destroyed a couple of times, most recently by the French as they retreated here in 1799

Crossing the bridge into Germany, just because we can. 

On the German side of the bridge, the placard informs us that items that must be declared must be done in writing!

Our entire walk this day, including the visit of the Rheinau Island, and rounding the peninsula, crossing the Thurauen Wetlands to the nearest bus stop in Flaach, was over 17 km!!! This entire stretch along the Rhine River is in Canton Zurich. We finished at about 17:30, so took 7 hours to do this hike!

We passed many pretty half-timbered houses along the way. Looks like a bird was passing through as I took the photo! (Usually it's bugs that get on the picture). 

Above some steep vineyards we found a bench where we had our picnic lunch. The forest on the other side of the river is in Germany.

A good place for our picnic lunch

Watching a boat maneuver on the river below. On the left was a weir, one of three around the peninsula, and I guess he didn't want to go over it

We walked along a residential area for a section, instead of the official trail at river level 

Much of the trail was through the forest. A lot of roots, but still better than paved roads!

There were several places where we actually had access to the river. Here you can see the high water starting to flood the rivershore

Now following the river along a higher trail. Up ahead at the bend is a small village called Ellikon, from where you can take a ferry across to Germany. 

Urs walked the newer trail, while I walked closer to the river on the smaller forest trails

A look north along the Rhine River

A look behind us as we enter the village of Ellikon

One of a couple of restaurants in Ellikon!

The ferrywoman (with whom we spoke later) is just picking up some passegers on the German side of the river. The sign says if you need a ride, you have to ring the bell vigorously! (She had an office in the old toll-house across the road). 

The ferry-station across the river on the German side!

Mrs. Zürcher the ferry-woman is cashing in for the service. The ferryboat has no motor, it operates on a cable across the river, maneuvered by the current and a rudder. A crossing costs 3 Fr. per person, 4.50 with the bike, and slightly more if it is only a single person who needs to cross! 

Some nice half-timbered houses in Ellikon. No bus stop here, unfortunately, or we might come again!

I have never seen an orange flowering bush like this one. 

A look behind us as we head toward the Thurauen wetlands

Young swans in the meadow

And another swan on the river

These special meadows are called "Magerwiesen" (Poor Grasslands) and are important for various wildlife. This is a nature protection area. 

The flooded wetlands (water from the Rhine River)

This is a very cool bird observation hut. Unfortunately we didn't see any birds, but we were able to observe some large fish in the shallow flooded areas

We spotted movement in the shallow waters and with zoomed lens noticed dozens of large fish swimming there. They seemed to have lost their way.

VIDEO:

Dozens of large fish (a nearby placard informs us that these are called Common Nase) seem to have lost their way from the main river, and find themselves in too shallow waters

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The trail took us away from the Rhine River and to the Thur River (another important Swiss river with its source on Mt.Säntis in eastern Switzerlad), which joins the Rhine River here. 

Stopping for a snack before crossing the Thur River

View down the Thur River to the west where it enters the Rhine River

Continuing along Trail no.60 to Flaach

A sign had instructed us to walk along the dam instead of the road, which was more interesting, I guess. 

There are still some trees here with blossoms! (Not fruit trees, though)

I was all excited about the wild irises

On this platform you could walk right into the middle of the wetlands

Nature left to its own devices. 

Once we got back to the shores of the Rhine River, we took a small detour back to where the Thur River enters the Rhine River. This is called the Thur Spitz. The "No Parking" sign means you are not allowed to exit here with a boat!

We were also surprised to see the work of beavers here. It looks like it won't take much more work until that huge tree falls into the river!

The area around Flaach is known for its large fields of asparagus

At the campgrounds near Ziegelhütte (end of our hike) we can see across the river to the village of Buchberg, which is now back in Switzerland again, but in Canton Schaffhausen (on this side is still Canton Zurich)

Both stretches which we have done along the Rhine River South of Schaffhausen. Red in 2016, this one in blue. This section of Germany is actually SOUTH of Switzerland. Also, and very interesting, there is also an enclave of Germany within Switzerland (on the right) just east of the city of Schaffhausen. 

The location of Rheinau in Switzerland. As you can see from the map, there is a section of Germany which is SOUTH of Switzerland.