Bernese Oberland: A hike from the Lauterbrunnen Valley into the Saxeten Valley

Sunday July 10, 2022 -- Although the weather was better on Saturday, we decided on a Sunday hike instead of a two-hike weekend. But we made it a good one. We returned to the Lauterbrunnen Valley to once again try a hike we had attempted last year, but aborted because there was too much fog and low cloud where we wanted to walk.

We got up early (4:45 a.m.!) to walk to the train station, as the trip to our starting point (including a bus from Lauterbrunnen and a cable car ride) took 3.5 hours! But we were glad for this, as there were only 6 of us in the small bus to Isenfluh (by the way, a 10-million $$ road was built to access only this one mountain village) and otherwise few people on the trail at this time. 

The 1-hour and 20-minute hike (420m ascent) to the popular Swiss Alpine Hostel Lobhornhütte went relatively well, not too hot as it was a large forested section, and the view of Mt. Jungfrau definitely spectacular, although I would have preferred less cloud, as Mt. Eiger was hidden from view most of the day. At the hostel Urs had dessert while I "froze" when the clouds gathered in front of the sun. That was the only downside to this day. 

We continued westward from there along Trail no.38 "Via Berna" into the next valley over called the Saxeten Valley, along a splendid trail below the cliffs called Tschingel, with a fantastic landscape and views of Lake Brienz. That was my favourite part of the hike. For the descent into the Saxeten Valley we took an alternate route to the back of the valley, probably a rougher trail than the main Via Berna one, but we experienced some fantastic waterfalls that way, as well as making it to the very back of the valley.

The little bus from the single village in this valley (Saxeten) runs only twice in the afternoon out of the valley, so we did have about an hour to wait till 16:10, but the trip again was worth it, another one of those valleys with a narrow steep entrance where you would hardly imagine there was a valley behind it, with a village and several farms.

The second downside to this excursion: The masses of Asian tourists are back, especially in this area of Interlaken/Grindelwald/Lauterbrunnen. Finding space on the trains is difficult. I sure didn't miss them. 

Crossing the Aar River at Interlaken West... The small cloud on top of Mt.Niesen foretold what the day would be like. There were also clouds like this atop the mountains where we were, although not as bad as last time we tried. 

Heading by train to Lauterbrunnen, we get a look at the mountain where we are going to walk, and the Saxeten Valley on the right where we came out of by bus. 

In Zweilütschinen the train splits into two parts: One to Lauterbrunnen, one to Grindelwald

Lauterbrunnen has a lot of shade due to the steep mountains on both sides. It is now 8:30 a.m. as we head for the bus to Isenfluh

From the village of Isenfluh high above the valley bottom, we get the first good look at the beautiful Mt. Jungfrau and Jungfraujoch on its left. 

The Isenfluh-Sulwald cable car

A look up the Lauterbrunnen Valley

The road to this village (hairpin turns and a 360-degree loop through a tunnel) cost 10-Million Francs to build

Another cable car ride to check off our list!

At 9:00 a.m. we start our hike from Sulwald. It did take us 1 hour 20 minutes to the Lobhornhütte, and a total of 4.5 hours to Saxeten

Following the Via Berna (Trail no.38) from Sulwald to Saxeten, except we did an alternate route in the Saxeten Valley (about 15 minutes longer). The best part or the hike was below the Tschingel cliffs. 

Another good look at Mt. Jungfrau, the dominant peak here. On the snow-covered saddle on the left is the observatory at Junfraujoch, the "Top of Europe". There is a train that goes all the way up there, and today was a good day for it. That's most likely where all the Asian Tourists went, or to Mt. Schilthorn on this side. 

A good part of the ascent was through a forested section, so not too hot. 

I was barely able to keep up with these great little hikers!

Urs buying cheese at the Suls Farm

This is probably the best we saw of the Eiger Peak this day

A look at the famous trio: Eiger, Mönch, Jungfrau

This peak was also fascinating, with its curved layers. There was also a lot of Karst rock in this region. 

Made it to the Lobhorn Hostel, a popular spot. The 400m climb was not too bad at all. 

Urs enjoying a dessert. It got cold as the clouds covered the sun while we waited here. 

Panorama view from the Lobhorn Hostel

From here another 3 hours and 15 minutes to Saxeten (which doesn't really make sense, if we have already come 1 hour and 20 minutes?)

We sat here near the lake for quite a while, waiting for the clouds to lift so we could see the Lob Horns

I was happy that the clouds lifted just enough to give us a view of these fabulous peaks called the Lobhörner (Lob Horns) from which the hostel gets its name. From the hostel, you can walk up to them in 1 hour 20 minutes. 

A clear view of Mönch and Jungfrau and the Jungfraujoch behind us as we head up the hill again. 

A final look at the Lobhörner before we head around the hill. 

This was my favourite part of the hike, a lovely trail along the base of the Tschingel. On the green saddle on the other side is where it descends into the Saxeten Valley. 

A view of Lake Brienz and the Brienzer Rothorn Massif at the back. 

Heading out along the trail below the cliffs

Another fantastic landscape

Directly across from this valley is the popular Schynigge Platte, and the equally popular ridge trail to Grindelwald First (we have walked that several years ago). 

And a look up the other valley toward Grindelwald and Mt. Wetterhorn

A great spot for our picnic lunch at 12.30. That's the tip of Mt.Eiger just visible on the right

A final look to the East before heading into the Saxeten Valley to the West

And now on the other side, heading down into the Saxeten Valley. In the center of the photo is the Renggli Pass, which you can access from this valley and a hike we also have planned. 

Heading toward the back of the Saxeten Valley.

The little cows were more surprised by us than we were, as they came up along the trail!

Crossing the Wyssbach, we didn't know yet that this turns into a beautiful waterfall which we saw later on our way down the valley. 

At that farm at the back (Nessleren) is where our trail turns and heads back out of the valley

Nessleren Farm (there was no one here). From here it's another hour to Saxeten

A zigzag descent through the forest

Looking down the Saxeten Valley to the village of Saxeten where we caught the bus out of the valley

Here is the beautiful waterfall created by the Wyssbach river which we crossed higher up. It looks like it falls about 100m!

The other waterfall created by the Saxetbach which we crossed at the farm at the back of the valley, comes down in three streams here! Also cool. 

Panorama view of both waterfalls

VIDEO:

Two fabulous waterfalls at the back of the Saxeten Valley

Crossing the Saxetbach river for the final stretch to Saxeten

A look upriver to the Saxetbach falls (the one we three streams). The farm is on the plateau above that. 

Snack break, as we still had plenty of time before having to catch the bus. 

This was a sawmill, powered by a waterwheel!

A little walk around Saxeten looking at the various houses. Urs found a refrigerator at the farm on the bottom right photo, and purchased a cold drink there. That is always a welcome offering from the farms in the mountains!

Our bus waits at the Saxeten schoolhouse. We were lucky, there were only two other people heading down to Wilderswil. 

A curvy road through a narrow valley entrance and then we emerge in the open area around Interlaken and Lake Brienz. 

A look at Mt. Jungfrau from Wilderswil train station. Perhaps the Jungfraujoch is now also obscured by clouds. 

The little train from Schynigge Platte arrives at Wilderswil, and all those people also want to get on our train to Interlaken. 

Our hike as seen on Google Satellite Maps

Location within Switzerland