A Walk down the Flüela Valley from Flüela Pass to Davos Dorf

June 25-27, 2022: We spent three days hiking in the Davos-Klosters region, a choice we made based on weather forecast (and because Urs wants to do more hiking in Canton Graubünden), and even though we found out after making our reservations that this was the start of the Mountain Bike season, we encountered very few people on each of the three excursions we did.

In many parts of Graubünden/Grisons there was little snow-fall this winter, so we were able to access high elevations with little or no snow. This might have been a reason that there were fewer hikers in the area: We were not expecting to be able to hike at 2700m without snow in June, and possibly others thought the same.

On DAY ONE -- our trip into the region -- we took the bus from Davos Dorf up to the Flüela Pass (one of those pass streets popular with motorbikers) and walked the 15 kilometers down the valley right to our hotel in Davos Dorf. We chose this trail for the first day as it was relatively easy to walk, but mainly because last time we came up to the Flüela Pass in July 2021 (photos HERE) we had passed a nice-looking restaurant on the pass road, and had determined that we would one day hike down this valley and have lunch at the restaurant. This worked out perfectly, and we enjoyed a very fine Graubünden specialty called Capuns.

The highlights of this walk were that we followed the Flüela River the whole way down, accompanied by the sound of the rushing water all day, which drowned out most of the traffic noise. And the whole landscape was a hue of pink from the flowering alpine roses. It was lovely.

NOTE: The Flüela Pass was already an important passage during the bronze ages. The pass road was completed in 1867.

Starting with a few impressions from the train ride to Davos, and the bus ride to the Flüela Pass:

Heading towards Klosters and Davos, you can see the Gotschnagrat cableway station on the crest. What we didn't know at this point yet is that we would be walking across that rocky outcropping on DAY 3 of our vacation in this area

The train heads along Lake Davos on its way to Davos Dorf. Caught on the photo is the rocky outcropping called Casanna/Grüenhorn which we crossed on our third day here

From Davos Dorf we took the bus up the Flüela Valley toward the Flüela Pass. On the way we passed the restaurant Tschuggen, where we stopped for lunch.

From the bus window, a view of the valley which we are going to walk down later. You can see the lovely trail below, and the waters which form the Flüela River.

Any hike starting here has to start with a photo of the Flüela Hospiz Hotel/Restaurant and the pass sign: 2383 meters = 7820 feet above sea level

In all we walked over 15 kilometers, and it took a little over four hours to walk back to Davos Dorf from the Flüela Pass

Starting on our hike down the Flüela Valley at 10:30 a.m.

It is such a pleasure to see all the flowers at these high altitudes

This lovely moor area is where the streams gather to form the river. 

Alpine Roses look so pretty in this barren landscape, but the plant is not welcome in areas where cows should be grazing!

A look up valley to where we started

We reached the starting point of the Jöri Lakes Tour just as the next bus (one hour later) arrived. It is a popular hiking tour, and easy to access by car as evidenced from the full parking lot. We did a hike to the Jöri Lakes in 2020, although we didn't do the standard loop hike (photos HERE)

Even though there was a constant stream of cars on the pass road, we barely heard them because off the sounds of the stream. We both love these landscapes where the streams flow whereever they want. 

Alpine Roses everywhere

The whole landscape was pink from Alpine Roses

The mountain in the back is called the Flüela Wisshorn, and below it is a small glacier called the Jöri Glacier. That is one of the passages in the loop trail to the beautiful Jöri Lakes 

There is nothing better than the sound of a stream

VIDEO:

Watching water flow is always relaxing. 

This is the sound that accompanied our whole hike down the valley.

We were pleasantly surprised to find one of the picture frames from the "Grand Tour of Switzerland" here. I am collecting photos of them if we find them or know where they are. 

We can well understand that this valley was a popular crossing throughout centuries as it is wide and gently sloping, so easy to cross with animals as well. 

This is called an "Avalanche Wedge" (my translation of "Lavinenkeil") to protect the building in case of an avalanche

At 12:30 we arrived at the Gasthaus zum Tschuggen just in time for lunch

We had a Graubünden specialty called "Capuns", which is like a cabbage roll made from Mangold leaves and a filling of Spätzle dough and various dried meats from the region. It was a pricey meal, but very delicious. 

Heading back across the river after lunch to rejoin our valley trail

The landscape changes again as we now reach tree level

Looking down the valley as we reach tree level. The river has been contained here...

Another look up the valley toward the Flüela Wisshorn and Jöri Glacier

We definitely did a large detour around this tightly-packed bunch of cows blocking our trail!

Even lower down now, as the trail passes mostly through forested sections, it was very pleasant to walk here. 

Shortly before reaching the Landwasser Valley

First glimpse of the mountains above Davos Dorf, in the Landwasser Valley. You can just make out the funicular line of the Parsenn Railway, which we rode on DAY 3

Looking at Davos from above, our accommodation is somewhere on the left. This part of the city in the background is Davos Platz. The whole area caters mostly to skiers, and much of these accommodations are vacation homes/rentals 

Our little room with a balcony and a small kitchenette. The fridge was very handy, and we cooked risotto the first night and a packaged pasta meal the next evening. The beds and bedding were very comfortable. 

The 15-km trail from Flüela Pass to Davos Dorf in the Landwasser Valley. 

The hikes we have done so far in these side valleys

This is the region where we spent three lovely days with perfect hiking weather.