Along the Obwalden High Trail from Melchsee-Frutt to Melchtal

Saturday June 18, 2022 -- We are in the midst of a heat wave, quite early for the summer, and a four-day weekend to boot, with loads of sunshine but a large dilemma: No buses running to the high altitudes yet, so where to go so that it's not too hot? Or do we try to get away for the whole weekend with so many people on the move and so few accomodations available? And most of the places which interest us at the moment were promising 30 degrees or more in the lower elevations, or were hosting a variety of festivals promising large crowds.

We settled for a day-trip once again, into the Central Alps near Engelberg, high enough to offer some "coolness" and less of a go-to destination for people on vacation: The Melchtal Valley. (The last time we were here was in winter of 2019, also beautiful, those pictures are HERE).

We started at the upper valley called Melchsee-Frutt at 2000 m above sea level, and chose to walk into the Melchtal Valley along the Obwalden High Trail, the logic being there was little ascent involved, so less strenuous in the heat. An intermittent cool breeze, some forested sections, loads of meadow flowers, a phenomenal mountain landscape, a very slow descent without exertion, and most importantly almost no other people on the trail means we enjoyed most of the day with the sole exception of the final 20 minutes to the valley bottom, where we really felt the heat. 

(In retrospect, we might have been better off staying on the Melchsee-Frutt plateau for a 4-hour hike to the pass called Jochpass above Engelberg -- always at about the same altitude -- but we have done that hike before [those photos can be viewed HERE] and wanted to do something new. In fact, two years earlier we had crossed the Storeggpass from the Engelberg Valley and also walked on the Obwalden High Trail down to Melchtal, and we wanted to do the other part of that trail section. A link to those photos is HERE).

Heading up to the upper Plateau at Melchsee-Frutt with the gondola cable car, this is a look down the Melchtal Valley

This little collection of homes is called Melchsee-Frutt, a popular family resort

The Melchsee-Frutt Cableway

Officially, STAGE 5 of the Obwalden High Trail is the section from here to the Storeggpass, which takes 4.5 hours, but then you have to find your way down from there! So we are following the trail for about 7 km (2 hours) and then descending to the community of Melchtal

A tourist photo

Before starting on our hike, we took a detour to the viewing platform at the lake (Melchsee) to have a look at the beautiful landscape here

This view is across the Melchsee Plateau. Most hikers will head out this way toward the East to cross the Jochpass and head down to Engelberg. We have done that hike before, starting on the Jochpass side (Photos HERE). There were very few people here, though.

Behind those mountains is the geographical center of Switzerland

The Melchsee-Frutt Cableway

Starting on our way back down the Melchtal Valley

Including the little detour to the viewing platform, this was about 3.5 hours to walk. We went quite slowly because the descent was long (1300m altitude difference!) to prevent too much stress on the knees. We started at the lake called Melchsee and walked northward along Trail no. 57, descending to Melchtal. 

Admiring the fantastic geology here: The curved striated layers on the mountain show how the earth might have flipped at some point. 

Such a cutie! This breed of goat is called the Boerbok, and is an imported breed from South Africa. 

Alpine roses are in bloom. 

One of the best parts of alpine hiking is the large variety of flowers

A look down the Melchtal Valley. Our hike ends at about the middle, in the community of Melchtal

Up ahead is the farm called Oberbettenalp (obviously caters to skiers in winter) where we stopped for a snack break. 

Having been "on the road" for an hour now, it was time for a snack break. The farm is currently unoccupied, but offers food and refreshments to skiers in winter. (Possibly also later in summer? We are not sure)

Here's a cool bird I've never seen before, although not uncommon in Switzerland: A Common Linnet (of the finch family)

An unusual bench!  (Seat from an old chair lift)

Our next stop in one hour: Unterboden, where we were going to have lunch. From here it's still 2.5 hours to Melchtal. 

Fantastic landscape. A popular skiing area. The mountain at the back is called the Bonistock. 

Heading downhill

At some point earlier we passed that barn up there, shortly after our first break

Meadow daisies are some of my favourite flowers

A look at the mountains on the other side of the valley. 

A cliché Switzerland photograph

Narrow paths are a favourite of ours. 

A very cute "vacation home"

We found a good place in the shade of a tree and near a stream to have our picnic lunch at Unterboden

This alpine farm is called Unterboden, and we had our picnic lunch here. From here we continued for another short bit along Trail no.57/88 (Obwalden/Nidwalden High Trails) before descending to Melchtal at Fomatt

Unfortunately, we had a 20-minute section along a paved road, but there was a bit of a breeze.

Lovely meadow flowers adorn the roadside. 

A look up the Melchtal Valley

Urs has a healthy respect for cows, especially if they show interest in him!

This is where we left the Obwalden High Trail to descend to Melchtal in the valley bottom. The official trail continues to the Storegg Pass, in the center of the photo.

These little girls were coming up our trail for a well-needed drink of water!

Panorama view up the Melchtal Valley. 

At the back is where we started!

Into the final stretch

Near the valley bottom now

Always those curious cows

On the left is the Melchtal Benedictine Monastery. 

This hot weather is great for cutting and drying the meadow grasses. The whole hillside here has been done. 

Approaching the bus stop in Melchtal. We made it with 5 minutes to spare (the next bus would have been in one hour. We would have waited in the shade down at the river, but were still glad to get out of the heat)

STAGE 5 of the Obwalden High trail is the section between Melchsee-Frutt and the Storegg Pass. In 2020 we came over the pass from the Engelberg side, and walked to Melchtal. This time we started at Melchsee-Frutt. 

Needless to say, this is also one of our favourite areas for hiking. These are Cantons Nidwalden and Obwalden, and there are dozens of cableways here giving us access to the higher elevations. 

Where the Melchtal Valley is located in Switzerland. This is very near the geographical center of Switzerland. 

An additional note: We had a stroke of luck and were glad we caught the 14:48 bus out of the valley, with good connections back home: Only 90 minutes in all. Right after our train left the Luzern Train Station, there were technical troubles, and several itineraries were cancelled! So much waiting in this heat, and for each missed train, the next one becomes more packed!