Roundtour Hike from Biel-Kinzig to Chinzig Chulm and Geissgrat in the Schächental

Sunday November 21, 2021 -- Lately there is so much fog in the flatlands, especially above the lakes, but we were lucky with some spectacular weather above the fog on the weekend! 

One particularly nice place to go which is usually above the fog is at the entrance to the Schächen Valley (Schächental) near Altdorf, one of our favourite valleys and relatively quick to get to. The hillside below some fantastic rocky outcroppings is populated with many farms and accessed with a large variety of cable cars, all of which we have ridden many times. Webcams from near the summit of the cable car at Biel-Kinzig had shown us relatively little remaining snow from previous snowfalls, so we chose to hike to a pass called Chinzig Chulm, one of the many renowned passages taken by the Russian General Suvorov on his campaign to defeat Napoleon's troops in Switzerland. (That history is worth a read, HERE at this Wikipedia article).

We had already done the hike up to the pass in July 2020, following the Via Suvorov Trail down the other side to Muotathal (a lengthy 5-hour hike at the time.... those photos can be viewed HERE), but this time the plan was to follow a ridge called Geissgrat to the next pass over, from where we could then return to the cable car station. The only problem is, even though one side of the mountain looks like there is no snow, you don't know exactly how ice-free the trail is, nor what the conditions are on the other side. But we figured we'd make the 470-m climb to the pass and see what happens. As it turns out, there were a handful of icy sections on the way up, but we managed just fine.

Once at the top, the entire upper region of these Schwyzer Alps was beyond breathtaking! We had dressed for cold weather, but quickly stripped down to T-shirts, it was that warm! The amount of snow along the ridge had us worried, though, and we almost decided to return along an easier trail, but speaking to other hikers up here, we found out that the snow-covered trail was well-trodden and easy to walk. We were so glad we had inquired, because it turned out to be a really nice crossing within a spectacular karst landscape, with incredible views. A really successful 3-hour round-tour hike without actually knowing ahead of time if we could complete it!

The excursion starts with two cable-cars from Brügg-Bürglen in the Schächental Valley below (currently not in fog!) to the summit station at Biel-Kinzig, about 1000m above the valley floor!

First uphill stretch to the little chapel... it sure looks different right now than when we did this in July 2020, when everything was GREEN!

Our 9-km and 3-hour loop hike started with a steep uphill section to access the passage at Chinzig Chulm (General Suvorov came up here with his army from the other side. Trail No.55 is the ViaSuworow trail created in his honour). Then we crossed the GeissGrat ridge on a snow-covered trail, and descended via a wide gravel road back to the cable car station. 

Way up there is the Chinzig Chulm Pass. We can see a bit of snow on the trail, but decided to go up anyway. 

A good spot for a snack before tackling the steep part. We were dressed for ca. 6 degree weather, but soon had to peel off all our jackets and sweaters, because it was so warm up here!

Here is the trail up to the Chinzig Chulm Pass, about 45 minutes from here. 

A glint of sunlight caught my eye on what we knew was a Via Ferrata route (for rock climbers). A zoomed look shows a bench bolted to the cliff! A place to rest and enjoy the view while climbing. Now that's unique!

The rocky outcroppings are stunning. 

First batch of snow, but it was easy to cross. There were lots of steps as well, which makes an ascent quite quick, but we had to be very careful of the ice. 

Making our way up slowly through snowy and icy sections

As we approach the pass, we get this great look down at the cable car station where we started, and at the fog down in the Reuss Valley

Final stretch! 

Alpine Choughs are the pigeons/seagulls/sparrows of the mountains!

A plaque commemorates Russian General Suvorov's passage over Chinzig Chulm in the fall of 1799. NOTE: The story of General Suvorov and his Swiss/Italian campaign is worth reading about. The Wikipedia Article is HERE

A look behind us at the passage we crossed (you can just see a couple more people coming up through there). 

I can't believe that it was warm enough in a T-shirt!

Panorama view from the bench where we enjoyed our picnic lunch

Best spot for a picnic lunch!

We had such good visibility to see all the details of this "barren" landscape! The valley on the left is the one that General Suvorov and his troops ascended from Muotathal to Chinzig Chulm in fall of 1799. 

Now we're headed out along the Geissgrat Ridge, looking back at our picnic spot at the cross, now taken by someone else! We were told by another hiker that the snow-covered trail was easy to walk and definitely worth the effort!

We were surprised that it was possible to pass through here despite the snow. This is a large karst region, absolutely fascinating.

Walking the well-trodden trail along the Geissgrat Ridge

Karst landscape. In the background is the Silberen / Charet region of Schwyz, unique in Switzerland as the largest eroded limestone region in the country. (The Muotathal Hölloch cave system below that is one of the largest in the world with 200 kilometers of tunnels)

Walking along the Geissgrat ridge, with Mt. Schärhorn and the Uri Alps in the background. 

Another view to the West, to the fog-filled Reuss Valley and the sunny Biel-Kinzig and Eggbergen region. You can just see the road below, which we are taking on our way back to the cable car station.

Down below is the military road, which we are taking to get back to the cable car station. 

Self-timed photo of the two of us in this splendid landscape. 

We are so glad we came this way! It would have been a shame to miss this. 

I thought this might be the passage down, but it is still a bit beyond here!

First we had to cross this natural bridge!

So fascinating how this limestone has been carved out by water!

And here is the second pass, to get to the military road

From here the rest of the way back to the cable car station, almost five kilometers, was along a road

A look up at the cleft where I originally thought we needed to descend!

The road was very popular with mountain bikers

The fog down below is now moving up the Schächental Valley

Amazing to think that we were up there on that ridge (The pass is at the arrow). 

At the Gisleralp farm they recently completed building this cheese dairy (2019), and obviously it was a popular spot for an afternoon break! (We think this must have been an organized event). 

Shortly before the end of our hike the sky clouded over. This was in the forecast. So we timed it fairly well to have a lot of sunshine. This is a look up the Schächental Valley, with its side valley called the Brunnital. 

There were many people waiting to descend with the cable car, several families with small children, enjoying a Sunday afternoon in the sun like we did. We were lucky to only have to wait three runs of 7 minutes each for our turn, and just made it to the bottom in the fog with five minutes or so to spare until the bus came. 

The fog is moving up the Schächental Valley.

And now our cable car is disappearing into the fog.

Our 3-hour round tour hike as viewed on Google Satellite Maps

Many hikes we've done in this area!

The beautiful Schächental Valley is not far from where we live in Zug. With public transit, including 2x15 minutes waiting time and the cable car ride, we can be there in 2 hours!

Round-Tour Hike to the Monastery Santa Maria Assunta in Claro

Saturday November 20, 2021 -- Here's another outing I did on my own because Urs had a previous commitment. The weather forecast for the Ticino was for 15 degrees and sunshine, so I headed down that way, with a very specific purpose...

In December 2017, Urs and I hiked up to the Santa Maria Assunta Convent perched above the village of Claro in the Leventina Valley near Bellinzona. This convent is the oldest established (1490) convent in Canton Ticino, but is unfortunately a closed convent inhabited by a dozen Benedictine nuns, and can only be visited by special invitation. The only part of the structure open to the public is the church, which was built in the year 1300! At that time, we continued northwards along the mountainside to Cresciano, to take advantage of the little winter sunshine (although there was a cold North wind blowing). Those photos can be viewed HERE.

Because of that blog posting I was contacted by someone in Canada who is writing a book with a setting at this monastery. In order to help her with her research, I decided to return there this time and pay some special attention to the details. I decided to walk the approximately 8-km official themed loop called "Claro e il suo monastero" (Claro and its Monastery), which turned out to require an ascent of over 500 meters, no small feat!

The day was spectacular and it was almost too warm to do that kind of hiking! The ascent takes place on the old zig-zag cobblestone mule trail -- the original access to the monastery -- and I then descended via the mountain hamlet of Cavri through a dense chestnut forest, a steep and tricky descent at this time of year, as the trail is totally hidden by the fallen leaves, and slippery from autumn dew. But I got some nice photos of the monastery from a different angle from the last time!

On the way by train toward Bellinzona at 09:30, this is what the monastery looks like above the village of Claro. The mule trail on the left is in shadow, as is the rest of the loop trail. The sun's rays are just starting to hit the buildings...

As I switch from the train to the bus in Bellinzona, I can see the monastery perched on the otherwise almost fully forested hillside below Pizzo di Claro (09:45)

In the center of the village of Claro, at the main church here, the sign indicates that it takes 25 minutes to walk to S.Ambrogio Chapel, and another 35 minutes along the mule trail to get to the Monastery.

I have decided to follow the local themed trail no.627: "Claro and its Monastery". The loop is about 8 km long, and takes about 2.5 hours to walk. 

This is the parish church of Claro (Chiesa di San Rocco e Sebastiano, early 17th Century). I can't pass without a look inside. 

The inside of the San Rocco church was vast and sparcely decorated, but the ceiling above the altar was pretty intricate. 

Now I'm making my way through the village to the foot of the hill upon which is perched the monastery. It is now 10:20 a.m.

What an intriguing-looking flowering bush! It's a pleasure to see this in November!

A look back at the tower of San Rocco as I make my way up the hill. The combination of tropical palm trees and leafless chestnut forests is always intriguing. 

From the village of Claro all the way to the chapel called San Ambrogio is a pathway of cobblestones between the residences

Typical house construction here!

After 25 minutes and enough uphill to already have me breathing hard, I reach the chapel of Sant'Ambrogio, which is, unfortunately, locked. 

Here is the start of the famous mule trail up to the Santa Maria Assunta Monastery

The carving reads "Santa Maria Monastery, Mule Trail in the Shadow of the Chestnut Trees"

Making my way up along the mule trail, which is mostly on the North side of the hill, and in shadow, even though it is now 11:10 a.m. A nice view up the Leventina Valley (called the Riviera, for some reason)

Photo set-up of me walking up the mule trail, all covered in chestnut leaves. 

After 30 minutes I emerge from the shady trail and get the first glimpse of the church at the monastery

There is a cableway from Claro to the Monastery, for people who don't want to do the 35-minute trek along the mule trail. It costs 7 SFr. for a one-way trip!

This is the part of the grounds that is accessible, i.e. a small entrance on the right where you can buy honey and biscuits made on site, and the church, of course. 

A look at the West side of the buildings. This has quite a Mediterranean flair!

Panorama view from the front of the church building. 

A look up the Leventina Valley toward the Gotthard Mountains

The inside of the Church, built in the year 1300!

One of those unusual organs that can be closed like a cupboard

A self-timed photo on the view "terrace" in front of the church! I had my lunch here in the sunshine!

And now it's time to head up to the hamlet called Cavri, hiding in the forest. There is a 2-km road to get there, largely in the shadow of the mountain.

This trail along the convent walls eastward leads to the main entrance of the compound. 

A look back toward the West end of the Monastery compound

From here at the entrance to the Monastery driveway is a sign that tells me I have 30 minutes (ca.2 kilometers) to walk to Cavri.

The road to Cavri is accessible by motor vehicle only to people who live there. 

There are still wall lizards also enjoying the warm sunshine!

A 30-minute walk along the paved road, mostly in the shade, and I reach this tiny mountain hamlet called Cavri

And from up here we can look down at the monastery!

A closer look at the monastery compound from slightly higher up, from the hamlet of Cavri

To get back to Claro, I had to descend for about 50 minutes on this forest trail, which was difficult to find as it was covered with leaves, and also quite slippery in places. Good thing I had a GPS with me and my map!

Another peek at the Santa Maria Assunta Monastery from through the trees. There weren't many places where you could see it like this (the chestnut forests are very dense).

At the height of the Monastery, there was a nice break in the trees with this good view of the complex

Zoomed view of the monastery grounds

A long tricky descent through the forest, I emerged onto this road from the right. This road also leads up to the monastery, but goes up in a type of ravine which has shade all day in winter

Across from the cable car base station is this pretty house. The base station of the cable car is not far from the parking area near the start of the mule trail. 

And now I am back at the St.Ambrogio (or St.Ambrosi) Chapel, closing the loop I did today. 

From the cable-car station, St.Ambrosi Chapel, and start of the mule trail, it takes about another 20 minutes to walk to the bus stops. But I stopped to chat with a local who lives near the Chapel, and then I went the wrong way on the way down, and missed the bus I wanted to take. Luckily, there was a connection that took only 30 minutes longer to get home. 

We have also done several hikes in the region of the Pizzo di Claro mountain. This one (the loop trail in mint green) was a relatively short hike. 

Back in Bellinzona. It's now almost 3 p.m. and there is still lots of sunshine on the mountain, but by 4 p.m. there will be shade at the monastery. 

Approximate location of the Monastery in Switzerland