From Leuk to Gampel on the Sunny Hillside above the Rhone Valley

Saturday February 27, 2021 -- We're back at it! Enjoying mountain hiking in February, what a treat!

The sunny side of the Rhone Valley near Visp in Canton Valais/Wallis is notoriously dry (hence the need to have built those magnificent irrigation channels in the side valleys, which we love to walk along in summer) and a favourite place of ours to walk along in February. In fact, we have covered well over 100km on the hillside between Sion and Brig, and most of that was done in February or late fall.... mostly because it is way too hot to walk here in summer!

This particular stretch we did this day, 14 km between Leuk and Gampel, finalizes a missing piece of the hillside which we hadn't yet covered. Of particular interest for us was the ancient town of Leuk, inhabited in pre-Roman times already, and guarding the entrance to the Dala Gorge through which the thermal baths at Leukerbad and the Gemmi Pass (South-North pass through the alps) are accessed. The town's main church (St.Stephan, Gothic-Style) includes a fascinating ossuary which you can actually enter and touch the 22,000 skulls and thighbones stored here! Other landmarks are the old castle (with modern additions by Swiss architect Mario Botta), and the city hall, formerly also a castle.

The area to the West of here is renowned for its vineyards, and at the bottom of the valley between Leuk and Sierre is one of Europe's largest pine forests, the Pfynwald Forest (17 km2). In the Middle Ages, the forest was populated by thieves, and travelers preferred to cross the dry rocky hillside and the Dala Gorge, rather than risk the dangers of the valley bottom. So we now walk those trails created by thousands of feet, hundreds of years ago!

Whenever we travel along the Rhone Valley we have observed high on the hill a conglomeration of satellite dishes, something we also have long wanted to see up close, so that was another highlight of the hike. And possibly the best highlight of all was the "High Bridge", an old Roman bridge spanning a very deep and narrow canyon. Simple stunning! 

As usual, there were so many interesting things to see and experience (including new-born Valais Black-Nosed Sheep and Valais Blackneck goats) and the weather so warm and pleasant, that we didn't even realize that we had hiked for 14 kilometers!

View westward from Leuk Castle down the Rhone Valley. Unfortunately the air was hazy. We have seen those mountains much more clearly on other occasions. On the hill is the cliff church at Varen, from which we walked westward to Salgesch on a hike a year ago.

Fotos from the hike from Varen to Salgesch in Feb.2020 can be found HERE

This building is the city hall in Leuk (later we walked up to the cross on the hill behind this building)

The old castle at Leuk was very run down, and when they decided to restore it in early 2000, they asked Swiss post-modern architect Mario Botta to do some interior design. This was supposed to attract more tourists.

City Hall in Leuk

Ancient meets Modern at the castle in Leuk (only open for visits starting in May)

Roof-line in Leuk, including the 13th Century bell-tower of St.Stephan's Church

Leuk's very own "Bridge of Sighs"

From the terrace of St.Stephan's Church, a look down main street, with Mt. Illhorn in the background (a mountain whose summit we can also easily reach, planning to do that soon!)

St. Stephan's Church in Leuk, current style is Gothic, ca. year 1500. The ossuary is the first place we visited, little door straight ahead

The ossuary beneath St.Stephan's Church contains 22,000 skulls and femurs from the 15th Century

Absolutely fascinating. These used to be people. The inscription reads "What you are, we once were, and what we are, you will become"

The first church at this location dates from the 6th Century. This most recent remake is from the Early 1500's, in the Gothic style of architecture.

We walked around Leuk for about 45 minutes before starting on our hike, admiring a lot of the old Valais barns

We peeked into one barn near the church. The Farmer was there, and he told us that these lambs were born at 11 p.m. on Feb.22, so they were barely two days old! (Valais black-nosed sheep, the BEST)

Our 14-km trail from Leuk to Gampel. Two climbs were required: One to the Satellite Station at Brentjong, and the next to the village of Erschmatt, originally a large producer of Rye Grain.

A view over the town of Leuk and the Rhone Valley (the river is known as the Rotten here) and the large, 17 km2 Pfyn Forest, one of the largest pine forests in Europe. In the Middle Ages, travelers were afraid of the thieves in the forest, so they crossed the valley on trails such as the one we are following.

Town of Leuk in the Rhone Valley.

The Satellite Ground Station at Leuk. These "Dishes" communicate with the satellites in orbit around the Earth.

It was magnificent to see these enormous dishes up close

Our trail took us around the satellite station on its North side

Heading eastward, we keep getting glimpses behind us of the satellite station and the Pfyn Forest below.

A type of anemone called the pasqueflower (in German = Kuhschelle). So nice to see the flowers again!

Warm and mild weather, and great trails! 

One of the highlights of our excursion: The "High Bridge" (German = Hohe Brücke)

A look down to the modern automobile bridge, from the old stone bridge.

A magnificent bridge over a spectacular ravine

More nice views of the Rhone River as we head eastward toward Gampel.

After a one-hour climb, we reached the town of Erschmatt. Because of the dryness of these hills, rye was a crop grown in large quantities here.

In the middle of the town was a humongous boulder. The houses were simply built around it.

In fact, to reach the front door of this house, you basically have to duck under the boulder! The neighbour's house had a garage, although it really isn't possible to get a car in there.

And this overhang looked like it was supported by only the one diagonal beam....

Peeked in to another barn in the middle of the town: The farmer was just milking one of his goats, and didn't mind my "oohing" and "aahing" over these cute goat kids! These are Valais Blacknecked goats. Pretty cute with their half-and-half colouring!

Continuing eastward. Below, the town of Gampel (our goal) is just coming into view.

One more village to pass through before descending to Gampel. This town is called Bratsch.

Descending to Gampel. We were hurrying to catch the 16:30 bus. Any later and it would have gotten dark and cold before our trip back home.

More spring flowers: I believe these are called "Winter Aconite"

Made it to the bus stop in Gampel/Steg with about five minutes to spare for the 16:30 bus. We are pretty good with our timing! (The next bus wasn't till 17:10)

Our 14-km hike along the sunny and dry hillside above the Rhone River. Started in Leuk, and ended in Gampel.

We have walked over 100km along the North side of the Rhone River. This piece between Leuk and Gampel was a missing gap.

Location of our hike, in Canton Valais between Sierre and Brig