September 30, 2020

"Via del Mercato" Trail from Verdasio to Intragna (Centovalli)

Wednesday Sept.30, 2020 -- Last hike of the month, lovely weather in Canton Tessin, loads of people there. We decided on a trip to the Centovalli again for a change, to walk along the hillside between Verdasio (one of our favourite villages) and Intragna. A good choice, as we only met a handful of people along the way.

The village of Verdasio lies about 160m above the railway line, but closer to the station called "Palagnedra" than the one with its own name. As the train first stopped in Verdasio Station, the train pretty well emptied as dozens of people apparently came to ride the two cable cars which are the main reason the train stops here. Both of these were options as we were deciding on what to hike for the day, so good thing we decided on an option without cable car!

The hike was mostly through forest, pretty level, winding along cliffs and over streams. This used to be the old market trail for villagers in the Centovalli to bring their goods out of the steep valley to markets in Intragna or Locarno. We descended to Corcapolo as we'd never been there, then crossed the Melezza River on a suspension bridge, and continued along the South side of the valley to the magnificent Ponte Roma (originally built in 1578) and on to Intragna. 

We had planned to be home by 19:30, but there was a train breakdown between Locarno and Bellinzona, on the only stretch where hundreds of "Northerners" like us trickling in by bus and train from all the many side valleys have to travel on to get home after this magnificent day.... As one train after another was cancelled because they couldn't get the stuck train out of the way, more and more people gathered, causing one bottle-neck after another, and we finally got home at 22:30 after three hours delay. Kind of took the magic away from the day. Looking at pictures brings back the better feelings....

Additional Note: Three days later the region was hit by a storm, and experienced quite a lot of flooding, so our timing for a trip there was good!


Even though there is a train stop called "Verdasio", the train station at "Palagnedra" is closer to the Village of Verdasio, where we started our hike.

We found a new "unofficial" trail heading up from the main road to Verdasio, which passed through several properties like this one.

Another lovely property we passed on our 40-minute ascent to Verdasio

Arriving on the outskirts of Verdasio: That crane is a permanent fixture, as there are buildings being renovated. It was here already in 2017, our most recent visit to Verdasio.

Village church in Verdasio

One of our favourite view points near the church cemetery

A look westward down the Centovalli. The villages on the right are all near the Italian border. The mountains in the back are in Italy.

A zoomed view of the village of Costa, high on the hill above Comedo, which is the last Swiss town before crossing the border into Italy. We have walked up to the village before.

This lovely restaurant next to the church is unfortunately closed, as they are looking for a new owner.

Rediscovering Verdasio. This is my third time here.

Verdasio in the Centovalli

Starting on our hike along the old market trail. First section was slightly uphill, then fairly level after that.

There is so much thick forest here in the Centovalli

A few old bridges to cross

Passing under one of the Verdasio Cable Car lines. This is the one that goes up to Monte di Comino, on this side of the valley. The other cable car goes to Rasa on the South side, you can see the stripped forest across the valley

An easy trail with lots of interesting sections

Walking along Trail no. 631: "La via del Mercato". One hour from Verdasio (after 40 minutes to get there), and next stop is Corcapolo, another hour from here.

Looking down at a hamlet called "Slögna". A great spot!

At one point we had a view way down to the railway line. As the train was just passing, I zoomed in on it... The railway line was way further than it looks!

A few sections along cliffs

A pretty cool looking fungus!!

Old stone bridge, streams and water pools to discover

Arriving at the outskirts of Corcapolo, with the typical dry-stone houses

Heading through the narrow alleys of Corcapolo

We're making our way to the church, as there are usually benches there for a coffee break, sometimes even a view

After our break, our descent to the suspension bridge to cross the Melezza River, to the South side of the valley

Now we're on the South side, looking westward at the hillside we just walked along

It took us about 30 minutes to walk from Palagnedra station to Verdasio, two hours more to Corcapolo, and after crossing the River, another 90 minutes to Intragna. So about four hours total.

A cute little hidden spot along the trail, next to a feeder stream. This place is called Remagliasco.

A Roman bridge, but a small one. 

This is the main Roman Bridge near Intragna, the "Ponte Romano", originally built in 1578 (the oldest existing bridge of its kind in the region). It has become quite a tourist attraction for people driving into the Centovalli. 

The Ponte Romano over the Melezza River is HUGE (26m high and 36m long) and required an actual "uphill climb" to get to the center

We crossed back to the North side of the valley again over the Ponte Romano. It was quite a "slog" to get back up to the main road.

Intragna, with the highest church tower in Canton Ticino.


Coming into Intragna over another Roman Bridge.

We've been to Intragna many times, but this old community washing trough is a new discovery for us.

Intragna's church has the tallest tower in Canton Ticino.

Our 4-hour, 11-km hike from Palagnedra station to Intragna, on Google Earth map

Heading back out of the Centovalli by train toward Locarno. Looking back at Intragna as we cross the Isorno River, which meets the Melezza here as it flows out of the Onsernone Valley.

As there was no chance to get out of Locarno for at least an hour, we spent some time down at the lake, Lago Maggiore

Locarno has a very pretty lake promenade, and it is always nice to spend time here. In retrospect, we should have gone to dinner; instead, we spent extra time stuck in trains and train stations, getting home with a 3-hour delay

This is an area where we have done lots of hiking! Our hikes have taken us through Verdasio three times (Urs a fourth) and through Intragna at least four times. 

As a side note: These are the people who got off the train at Verdasio, to ride the tiny cable-car to Rasa. The queue extends far to the left, plus about 8 more inside the building!





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