Hike from Seewis to Malans in the Prättigau Region of Canton Grisons

Sunday May 3: Today we attempted a trip a bit further afield, 2.5 hours by train and bus, into the Prättigau region of Canton Graubünden/Grisons (that's to the East, near the Austrian Border, and an area we don't get to often). We left early to avoid any possible crowds (very few people in the train and bus) and to make the most of what was going to be a beautiful day (clouds in the forecast for later in the afternoon).

The trip there was magnificent, with fantastically clear skies, and lovely views of the mountains which currently are at their best: Green on the bottom and white on the top! We got to the starting point of the hike in the mountain village of Seewis near Landquart, and the hike to the top of the hill which looks into the narrow gorge which is the entrance to the Prättigau was easy and comfortable because the air was cool. After several days of heavy rain, the steep forest trail back down from the first hill was tricky, lots of slippery roots so you had to step carefully. But the next hill called Fadärastein was easier to descend, a much wider path including a short exciting stretch along the cliff, into the town of Malans, end of our ca. 12-km hike. 

The Fadärastein look-out point, where you could see up and down the Rhine Valley from Chur to the Churfirsten mountains along Lake Walensee, turned out to be a popular excursion point this day, especially for cyclists, so the large number of people gathered in a small area were a bit intimidating. We didn't stay long, took the photos and descended quickly.

The trip started and ended with a good walk through the streets and alleys of both Seewis and Malans, admiring the regional architecture (Seewis = wooden houses with wooden shingles and carved balcony railings) and ending with a small detour to the Bothmar Castle in Malans, home of the very old and influential Salis-Seewis Family, who have dominated this area for hundreds of years. (The trail we walked was both a section of the Prättigau High Trail and the Salis Trail, where many placards gave information about the Salis family, most notably Johann Gaudenz von Salis-Seewis who was a popular Swiss poet, having had many of his poems interpreted by famous composers of the time). 

NOTE: LOTS OF PHOTOS!

On the train ride to the Prättigau, we pass by the Linthal Valley, one of my favourite valleys with access to Lake Klöntalersee to the right of those magnificent mountains in the center

Traveling East along Lake Walensee, a familiar and always stunning view of the Churfirsten Mountains, which had just gotten a fresh dusting of snow

A favourite castle perched above the town of Sargans, at the valley junction where the Rhine heads along the border of Lichtenstein. I photograph this every time we pass this way, which is often!

From Landquart a train takes us through the narrow gorge called Chlus, into the Prättigau region, in the direction of Klosters. The bus to Seewis leaves the town of Grüsch... and this castle ruins overlooks the town. Before the bus left, I had just enough time to photograph it!

A 10-minute bus ride from the valley bottom to Seewis and the start of our walk. What a fantastic backdrop!

Some of the typical structures in Seewis

Although all the blossoms are finished in the North where we live, it was wonderful to still see some blossoming fruit trees up here, where Spring is later than in the flatlands!

View Southwest toward the Chlus, which is the narrow passage which we came through to get to Seewis.

 

Following both the Prättigauer Höhenweg (Regional Trail no.72) and the Salisweg (Local Theme Trail no.697)

We took the train from Landquart via Malans, through the Chlus Gorge to Grüsch, then the bus to Seewis. Then on foot, two easy uphill sections and a long descent to Malans. With the tour of the villages start and finish, this was over 12 km to walk!

It was perfect hiking weather, although the trail was muddy from the long period of rain we just had.

Heading toward the first hill, this is the view East and SE up the Prättigau Valley, toward the popular winter resort town of Klosters and further to Davos.

This would be the direct way to the Fadärastein look-out point, and also the official Trail no.72, but we are doing a "detour" up the hill to the left

Heading up a narrow trail along the cliffs on the North side of Crupspitz

Most of the trail to the summit was through a forested region, but we had a few glimpses of the fantastic countryside

Good spot for a coffee break at the section closest to the gorge

Another view into the Prättigau, and down to the Landquart River. 

And a look into the ravine, the narrow passage called Chlus, which connects the Rhine Valley with the Prättigau.

A little further on we got to the look-out called Crupspitz, the highest point on this first hill, looking westward to Landquart. After a tricky descent, we went up the next hill, to Fadärastein (arrow) from where we descended 650m to Malans in the Rhine Valley

That's the Crupspitz, the first peak looking into the ravine. Descent was a bit tricky on a wet path with lots of roots

Heading up the next hill... Trail no.72 actually makes a large bow along the paved road, but this lovely path, although it says "Private", was actually an official trail as well, and much nicer to walk. Plus it took us past a farmhouse that sold local Salsiz sausage!

A lovely specimen of a May Beetle!

At the farmhouse, self-serve home-made sausage for sale!

We saw this beautiful tree when we were on the peak of the Crupspitz

A bench by the side of the road is the ideal spot for our picnic lunch, with the view over the farm where we bought the sausage, with the beautiful background of the Eastern Alps

Just before reaching the next highest point called Fadärastein, we already got some peeks to the town of Malans below.

A view Northwest down the Rhine Valley toward Sargans

Once we reached the look-out point at Fadärastein, what a breathtaking view! This is southward toward Chur, with the Landquart River coming out of the passage from the left, and joining the Rhine River on the right

This is the panorama view up and down the Rhine Valley, from the Fadärastein look-out point. 

There were lots of people up here, especially bikers. Many had walked up from Malans, 650m below. Funny how we are now so aware of being too close to other people...

We headed down right away, along the cliff. It was sensational! Malans in the background, the goal of our hike. 

Heading down the West side of Fadärastein, along some pretty great cliffs.

And another fantastic view to the Northwest!

 

Most of the trail going downhill was like this, so even though we had a long descent, it was easy to walk

The best view of the Bothmar Castle, home of the current Count Salis-Seewis, was from above while we were still on the trail

And finally we reach Malans on the Valley bottom, amid new-growth vineyards.

A fountain around every corner. This fountain is much younger than the house behind it!

Before heading into the village, a quick walk to the Bothmar castle for a close-up view. The castle was built in 1500, and property of the Salis-Seewis family since the 17th Century. The poet Johann Gaudenz was born here in 1762, but he lived in the tower house in the center of the village. 

This old house behind the castle gate fascinated me more than the castle...

Heading back into the town of Malans, this is the Tower House where Johann Gaudenz lived from 1793 to his death in 1834. The building itself dates from approx. 1685.

Very pretty details on this typical Grisons house

Typical Grisons building, this is the Gasthaus Krone, in the center of town, with the Tower House behind it. 

A quick and necessary visit to the town church (fairly plain inside) before heading to the train station. Behind the church high on the hill is the Fadärastein look-out point. We descended through the green sloping forested section. 

A sign of the times

From the train platform we get a really good view of the hill where we descended. 

We started at 9:30 in Seewis and caught the train in Malans at 15:10. Total over 12 km, a regular walking time of 4 hours 15 minutes if you don't take any breaks. 

On the way back, another good look at Schloss Sargans 

Heading westward along Lake Walensee, with a final look at the Churfirsten mountains. The snow has melted substantially since early morning...