January 4, 2020

A Walk through the Capriasca Region near Lugano

Saturday January 4, 2020 --  After our two "winter" hikes, we took a couple of days off (well, actually a work-day and dentist appointments! so two days off from hiking), and on this Saturday, the weather once again was best in the South (our winter go-to). So we completed a three-hour hike which we had planned for earlier in December, that day we were surprised by so much snow near Lugano.

The hike was more like a 10-km stroll through the landscape and villages of the Capriasca area just North of the city of Lugano. We've walked here before, but we chose a different route this time, different old villages mostly (my favourite had all kinds of arched alleyways under the buildings) as well as a look at the location of an abandoned mid-fourteenth century farming village of Redde (all that remains is the restored town tower and the village church, now amidst the forest) and the San Bernardo Hermitage with a view South over Lake Lugano. Again, it was so warm and mild, hard to believe it's the 4th of January.

(The trail we walked, starting in Sala Capriasca near Tesserete is actually part of National Trail no.7: "Via Gottardo" as well as Trail no.7: "Trans Swiss Trail", and also a local theme trail called "Passegiare in Capriasca" i.e. "Stroll through Capriasca")


We started our excursion with a walk through the alleyways of Sala Capriasca, the next village over from Tesserete
 
In Sala Capriasca

In Sala Capriasca

The local church in Sala Capriasca. On a side wall is a Fresco which was moved here from an old stable, a painting done locally in the early 17th Century.

The altar inside the Church in Sala Capriasca
 
Heading out of the village of Sala Capriasca, to start on our "Walk through the Capriasca". In the background (to the West) is the snow-covered peak of Monte Tamaro (we walked that entire ridge many years ago)

Along the trail called "Passegiare in Capriasca" and also "Via Gottardo" and the "Trans Swiss Trail", of which we have now done many sections. Approx. 11 km, and took us longer than 3 hours because we spent lots of time looking at all the villages. 

To the East are the distinctive peaks called "Denti della Vecchia" (or: "Old Lady's Teeth"), another ridge that we have walked many years ago.

Walking on the trail called "Passegiare in Capriasca"
 
The temperature was very mild and there were some very nice trails through the sun-dappled forest

Walking on pleasant forest trails in the first week of January!

Here in the forest is what is left of a 14th Century agriculture village called Redde. This is the Oratory of San Clemente

The chapel was locked, but I was able to get a photo through the tiny barred window

The other part that remains of the village is the tower, called "Torre di Redde". It is mentioned in documents dating 1310, and was restored in 1990 (only the walls are left)

Only 15 minutes from San Clemente is the other church we have on our agenda: San Bernardo on the "Via Gottardo" and "Trans Swiss" Trails
15 minutes from Redde and up a steep hill we came to the Hermitage of San Bernardo, which unfortunately was also closed. 

From the San Bernardo hill, a nice view over the villages of Sonvico and Villa Luganese, as well as the Denti della Vecchia

To the South, a view over the city of Lugano, Lake Lugano, and the distinctive Monte San Salvatore

Good place to have a coffee break and soak up the sun before heading down to inspect two more villages
 
Down in the village of Comano, this is the main church: "Santa Maria della Purificazione"

View from the church terrace over the region called Capriasca

I am always fascinated by the ceilings inside the churches

"Santa Maria della Purificazione" is the name of the church in Comano, first mentioned in 1359, but has undergone radical changes over the years, especially in the 17th Century. Note the juxtaposition of palm trees and Christmas Tree!

This was my favourite town. All the roads went through archways under the buildings! (We came dressed warmly, there are four jackets hanging on that backpack!)

Roads through archways in the village of Comano

Roads through archways in the village of Comano
 
Just a few meters down the road was another section of old town in Comano, just as interesting

If I lived here I would spend all day on this terrace

Heading out of Comano toward Cureglia, a look back at the Church "Santa Maria della Purificazione" with the backdrop of the stunning "Denti della Vecchia"

Also looking back at the second section of old town Comano which we just walked through

In this region we see a lot of old phone booths converted to libraries or defibrillator stations

Heading through the town of Cureglia before walking along the ravine and down to the railway station in Lamone.
 
In 2017 we did another similar walk through the Capriasca area, starting and ending basically at the same places, but covering different areas, inspecting different villages. Always something new to discover!



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