October 27, 2019

Very Popular Hiking Trail at Atzmännig near Zurich

Sunday Oct.27, 2019 -- The final nice day in the forecast for the next couple of weeks at least, but because we had done a hike on Saturday, we didn't want to go too far on Sunday. We wanted to stay within two hours' travel of home, hike in a landscape that was still somewhat green, not too much ascent, view of the mountains, and not too many people. We chose a popular round-tour hike near Lake Zurich (this is actually a family sport and recreation area), which also had a mountain restaurant along the way where we could have Sunday lunch instead of taking along sandwiches.

Well, we should know by now that most popular hiking trails near Zurich are VERY popular on a nice Sunday, because the city folk don't have to travel far, and I must say, we have never done a hike where there were so many people on the trail. But we did luck out just the same with a spot at a table in the restaurant (although service was understandably slow, due to the masses of people), and aside of the cold wind that blew across the ridge, I rather enjoyed the trail because there were no paved sections, only mountain and forest trails, and we had surprisingly far-reaching views along the entire trail in all directions, from Lake Constance in the North, across the Toggenburg region to Mount Säntis in the East, and Lake Zurich and the Eastern Alps in the South. 

The real downside (besides the hazy air) was realizing this was a hike we should have done on a week-day, and we should have gone into the mountains South of us instead, where the sky was so obviously cloudless...



You can walk up to the start of the hiking trail, but using the chair lift saves an hour walking uphill. It was rather peaceful going up, although somewhat cold, and no indicator of how many people we were going to run into.

From the chair lift looking South into the Glarus area of Switzerland, where we wished we had gone to instead.

View across Lake Zurich on the way up on the chair lift

This is the popular Atzmännig round tour, a very nice panorama tour but with many people on Sunday as the area is close to the city of Zurich

Near the chair lift, as we started heading North, we were shocked at how many people were on the trail. We should have expected it, though.

Wonderful view to the East across the Toggenburg Region of Eastern Switzerland, all the way to Mount Säntis in the Alpstein Massif

On the ridge at the left is the restaurant where we planned to stop for lunch. When we saw the number of people walking here, we called them to see if we could make a reservation, but they don't take reservations on Sunday! But they thought that there would surely be a spot for two people

Usually it bothers me to hike with so many other people on the trail. But we had expected more people than we were used to, so had already prepared mentally for this
 
View Southwest toward Lake Zurich

Even the forested part of the trail was very pleasant to walk.

Another look to the South into the Glarus Alps where we regretted not going, as nice as this hike was.

Another view East toward Mount Säntis

The Toggenburg Hills. Below is, I think, the town of Wattwil.

And there is a view from here all the way to Lake Constance and Germany to the North. I can only imagine how nice this would have been on a very clear day!

Descending toward this farm we can see that there are trails coming up to this ridge from all directions!

Here's the junction where people were streaming up from all sides! 

Close-up view of the large car parks at the bottom of the chair lift. By the time we got back there, the parking lot on the right was also full

The outdoor terrace at the Chrüzegg Mountain Restaurant was packed, but we did find a shared table indoors to have our lunch of French Fries and Wiener Schnitzel. Which is better anyway, because too many people still smoke while eating outside....

Super nice trails for a Sunday afternoon walk in the low hills near Lake Zürich (this is actually in Canton St.Gallen)

Heading back down to the parking lot where we started (with the chair lift)

On the ridge it was cold and windy but down here pleasant and mild with good trails

Still lots of people on the trail, but I survived!

Back at the base of the chair lift, there are still lots of people heading up at 3 p.m, and the parking lots were full!

Our 2.5-hour, 8 km hike around the Atzmännig region in St.Gallen, eastern Switzerland

October 26, 2019

Sunny High-Trail Hike from Fürenalp to Engelberg

Saturday Oct.26, 2019 -- Another mild and sunny weekend on the forecast, so of course we wanted to do an excursion on each of the two days, but keeping each one short and close to home so as not to be too tiring.

For Saturday we slept in and started late, heading out of our home at 10:15 toward Engelberg, where this was actually the last weekend that we could catch the bus to the Fürenalp cable-way station (The cable-way continues to run in November, but you have to walk an hour to get there). Since the hike we had planned was on the South-facing slope and high above the valley heading West, we knew we would have lots of sunshine even if we started "late in the day". That is, we got to the start of our hike, the Fürenalp Mountain Restaurant (lots of people up here enjoying a meal on the sunny restaurant terrace ) at 12:45. 

The more popular trail in summer heads eastward and down into the valley to return to Engelberg, but we knew ahead of time that this valley lies in dark shadow at this time of year, and sure enough, we had lots of warm sunshine (shorts weather!) except for the descent to "The End of the World" before the return to Engelberg. Furthermore, by the time we did reach Engelberg the sun had gone down behind the steep mountains there, so we saved 20 minutes on the final walk to the train station, and took the bus. 

Our timing on this one was great all around for maximum sunshine, and we were back on the train heading home at 5 p.m. to prepare for the next day's excursion.

 
On the way to Engelberg along the Engelberg Valley, the "early morning" (11:30!) light on the Eastern slopes was rather pretty!

At the Engelberg Train station we are going to catch a bus further into the valley, to get the cable car up onto the slope behind the tree. Our hike will bring us around this mountain at about the tree line, descending on the left into a valley called "End of the World"

Heading up the Engelberg Valley, this view is northwards into the "End of the World" Valley, where we are descending to from the right

We had to walk 300m from the bus stop to the cable car station and we walked quickly, because we knew it was a small cable car (8 persons), and we wanted to get there before all the other people on the bus.

We didn't have to wait long, only one car-load ahead of us. The ride up is quick, about 5 minutes. 

Shadow of the cable car on the steep cliffs on the way up to Fürenalp
 
Approaching the Fürenalp station

Posing with the cable car, another small-cabin cable car that we had never been on before, and can now cross off our list!
 
Lots of people up here enjoying lunch in the balmy warm October sunshine. It was so warm here that I had to change into my skirt for the hike.

Before starting on our hike (trail on the right) we went on a small round-tour of the hill next to the restaurant, to get some views into the valley.

Looking back at the restaurant and the cable car station. In summer, the more popular trail heads further into the valley to the right, and returns at the valley bottom, but there was too much shade in the valley for that option

Behind me is Mt. Titlis, an unusual direction to view it. Most photos are taken from further NW, where you can see the dome with year-round snow

From here, a nice view down to Engelberg

Our "short" (9km) hike took us along the sunny side of the mountain. The only shade we had was on the descent to Horbis (End-of-the-World) and then again as we reached the Brunni cable car station in Engelberg, where we took a bus back to the train station instead of walking the extra 20 minutes

Off and away! The trail was easy, comfortable, and mostly lots of sunshine! This is looking backwards from where we started
 
And this is the direction we are going, mostly with views of Engelberg below us. This here is called a "Triste" which is how the mountain farmers store the summer hay.

From way up high, looking down at Engelberg

The trail took us into this "recess" and out again past the alpine farm, where the farmers have already closed up for winter. But that is where we had our picnic lunch, before heading up the trail on the left

It was simply glorious to hike this kind of trail at this time of year

A small reservoir

Very popular for paragliding up here. We thought this fellow was a bit too close to the cliffs.

Here's where we had lunch, on a bench in front of the farmer's mountain home. They have closed up for the winter. The cows have been brought down from these alpine pastures.

Looking South at the shady north side of Mount Titlis and a piece of glacier

Another glimpse down at the city of Engelberg

Close-up view of the famous monastery in Engelberg (they make their own cheese here). Our path back to the train station would have taken us past the monastery, but it was all in shadow by the time we got near there, so we caught a bus instead

I can hardly believe there are still butterflies at this time of year

There is good thermal lift here for the paragliders

Here there is a ravine and the trail heads steep downhill to the left (the pasture below is called "End of the World". This is where we had shade on the descent, and it was cold

From here we headed down to Horvis (buildings below), then to the left out of this side valley called "End of the World"

Trail marker to "End of the World". There is nothing there but an alpine pasture, so we did not go that way

Looking into the cauldron that is called "End of the World". We went the other way, though, out of this side valley

We headed South out of the side valley toward Engelberg, and were lucky to still have some sunshine here.

Last bits of sunshine. The city of Engelberg was in shadow by the time we got there (4:30 p.m), so we took a bus back to the train station instead of walking.

Wonderful late autumn hike on the sunny side of the hill above the Engelberg Valley
This is the more recognizable view of Mount Titlis, seen from further North down the Engelberg Valley

Heading home by train, this is the view of the Alps from Lake Zug, close to our home.
 
This is another area where we have done lots of hiking. The white trail is a bike ride I did once, when I brought the bike to Engelberg by train, and rode back out of the valley toward Lake Lucerne