July 30, 2019

A Hike up a Mountain in Valle Verzasca, Ticino

Tuesday July 30th -- This was an unusual pick for us on this the nicest day this week, a trip to the hot South (30 degrees forecast for later in the day) instead of a high trail in the Alps, which I prefer. But the weather in the mountains was unsure, and the last thing I want is to hike inside the low clouds that sometimes hang in the mountains.

So instead we went where we were sure of nice weather, and selected to climb 600m directly up a mountain so that we could have a nice meal in a Ticinese Grotto in a relatively large village (Monti di Motti) surrounded on all sides by thick forest. And that was the key, the THICK forest. Plus the sun hadn't yet reached the side of the mountain where we started, so the climb was cool and pleasant on comfortable zigzag trails. We like to hike like this, because we gain altitude quickly. And even though we only once in a while caught a glimpse down the ever-stunning Verzasca Valley, we did pass through several groups of stone houses on the 2-hour climb, and these never get boring to look at.

After our lunch we discovered a look-out point where we got a wide open view of Lago Maggiore and the Maggia Delta on which lie the cities of Locarno and Ascona. And then all that was left was the 600m descent to the Verzasca Dam, also always an impressive sight when you come up this valley....




(THREE Post Buses went up into the Verzasca Valley at 9:30, each jam packed full, and NO ONE got out at the Dam. They were surely all going further up the valley to the ever popular town of Lavertezzo with its double-arched bridge and clear blue water, or perhaps to the very back of the valley, to start walking back... but NOBODY ever gets out in Fontöbbia where we started our hike... there is nothing here but the road. To the West a steep drop to the lake, to the East an equally steep mountainside with no indication of a trail, not even on the map. But we knew there MUST be a trail, because the bus stop was called "Fontöbbia", and the village 60m above the road was called "Fontöbbia", so there had to be a trail, which was what we wanted to find out. But all those people in the bus, they were probably thinking: "Why would ANYONE choose to get off the bus here?")


After using our orientation sense and GPS to find the right path (not marked on the map) from the road below, we did find the pretty little village of Fontöbbia after about 10 minutes

Early in the morning this section of the mountain was in shade and it was comfortably cool (here in Fontöbbia)

As we climbed higher through the sun-dappled forest, we caught a couple of glimpses of Lago di Vogorno, the lake behind the Verzasca Dam

Here and there along the zigzag paths are individual stone houses called Rustici

Since we are pretty close to the mouth of Valle Verzasca here, we can see out the valley to Lago Maggiore

Here we arrived at the "larger" community of Lignasco where we were going to take a coffee break, but there was a fellow mowing a large meadow with a weed-wacker, a very nasty noise that showed no indication of stopping soon, so we continued on.

Quick photo in Lignasco

On the other side of the valley, across the lake, is the very large community of Mergoscia, where we have been often. 
I'm testing my zoom lens by photographing the houses in lower Mergoscia across the valley....



The only bench along the way, so this is where we did our coffee break (couldn't hear the weed-whacker from here)

This was the view from our bench. Pretty neat to look at from way up here. (We have traveled this landscape many times)

The stone houses are always interesting to look at, there are always lots of little details

This is another community of stone houses called "Corte di Sopra". Our 600m steep ascent was finished here. The rest of the way to the restaurant was along a fairly level forest trail

After a good two-hour hike we got to Monti di Motti, a large sprawling community up on the mountain (accessible by vehicle on a long, narrow, winding road), and the first order of business was to have lunch

Urs had a rather non-Italian Cordon Bleu, I opted for home-made Raviolis with a Lemon Sauce, more in keeping with the area we were in!

The location here is kind of on a ridge where to the North is the Verzasca Valley, and to the South is the Magadino Plain and Lago Maggiore

Pretty

To the North a view into the narrow Verzasca Valley

A fountain so large you could actually take a bath in it.

This is on the way to the look-out point, which we didn't know about beforehand, but we following the trail markers

Fantastic view from the look-out point 5 minutes to the West of the village. Below is the Maggia Delta with Locarno on one side and Ascona on the other.

We then headed back to the village and walked through it before continuing on the descent to the Verzasca Dam

The next grouping of stone houses below "Monti di Motti" is "Monti di Metri".

In Monti di Metri you see down on Lago Maggiore to the South

Quick walk in the alleys between the houses to look at all the hard work done to make the houses liveable. Some are pretty modern as well

On this little plateau you can look down at the Magadino Plain between Bellinzona and Locarno

We are always surprised by some very special detail, like these religious fresco paintings on structures that were built about 400 years ago (and still standing, even though the rocks are actually laid without mortar)

This little house was built in 1645, the painting added in 1787.... and it (the house) just kind of stands all by itself in the forest, alongside the trail

Now THIS is a great location for a property (this place is called Vertum)

Some old barns along the trail near Miescio, about half-way down the hill
We were trying to get to the Dam for the 15:44 bus, so we didn't have time to sit on this bench in Miescio!


Glimpses of the Verzasca Dam below

Almost down at the dam, there is a little collection of houses called Selvatica

And the magnificent Verzasca Dam

View from the Dam up into the Verzasca Valley along Lago di Vogorno. At this time the lake level is very low. We've been here before when the lake was so high it went right up to the tree line.


We have done many hikes aroung this area, especially along the dam, in Mergoscia on the West side of the lake, and also down the entire valley. This time was the first time going up the mountain on the East side of the Lake. 

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