Lesser Known Trail in Engelberg Valley: Rugisbalm and Lake Lutersee

Sunday September 24, 2018 -- Most hikers who go to Engelberg in Central Switzerland either walk the very popular Walenpfad Trail on the East side of the Valley, or they take the cable car up to Lake Trübsee to the South, where they start on the Five-Lakes Hike to Melchsee Frutt (both of which we have done before).

On the West side of the valley is a lesser-known trail which starts at a mountain pasture high above the valley, and passes via a pretty alpine lake called Lake Lutersee before descending along a sometimes steep but not-at-all-boring trail to Engelberg. To get to the starting point of the hike, though, we had to walk two kilometers from the train station at Grafenort, and then take two private cable cars of which there are very many in this particular valley, and one which we specifically wanted to try out on this tour. The first part of the cable car connects a typical old Swiss farmstead with the valley bottom, and the second part, which leaves at practically right angles to the first, connects the farm with its alpine meadow far above the valley, where the cows are brought up each Spring to graze, and we were lucky that they were still in pasture up here, so that once again, we could hike with the always soothing familiar sound of their bells.

A local man who rode up with us informed us that this was one of the very first cable cars built in two sections, i.e. with a bend in it. At first the association for cable cars was wary to provide certification for public use, but upon inspection found out it was very well built and is in fact something rather unique. As with all these private cable cars, the farmer is kept busy answering the phone, collecting the cash, and running the motor...

As almost to be expected in the last while, the first part of our hike was accompanied by the usual cloud cover, but this turned out to be an advantage for our 300m ascent, and as we had lunch at the little lake (where we also espied marmots and a chamois on the steep rough flanks), the clouds parted enough to offer some very satisfying vistas, not only of the little lake with Mount Titlis reflected in it, but also of the entire Engelberg Valley both to the North and East.

To get to the Lutersee Cable Car we first had a pleasant 2-km walk along the Engelberg Aa River

Up ahead is the lower cable car "shelter", where the first part takes you to the plateau in the middle where there is a farm. There you pay the farmer and go for the second ride to the right. Our goal is Lake Lutersee on the upper plateau on the left, before descending to Engelberg

Another unique and adventurous ride on a private farmer's cable car: Lutersee Bahn, one of the first private lines built in two parts at right angles.

At the switch point, you pay the farmer, while she is busy fielding phone calls from the next group below who wants a ride up

View North down the Engelberg Valley as we ride up to the start of our hike

This was our route: 2 km from Grafenort to the lower cable car station, 10 km from the upper cable car station via Lake Lutersee and down to Engelberg

Although we had to ascend 300m to the lake (plateau far left) it was a comfortable wide road and we were accompanied by the beloved sound of cowbells

The cows are still grazing on this high alpine pasture, but we were told they were coming down in about a week

As we approached the plateau with the Lutersee Lake, we were greeted by this view of Mount Titlis, which is a ski area all year round, but currently looking as if it doesn't have enough snow.

At this spot was a lovely cabin with a bench in front of it where we had our picnic lunch and enjoyed the view as the clouds made their rapid way across the sky, everchanging the reflection on the lake