Over the Schonegg Pass from Canton Uri to Canton Nidwalden

June 20, 2018 -- Today (Wednesday) we had company for our mid-week hike, an uncle of Urs' with whom he's done some intensive hiking in the past (10 hours, over two mountain passes, for example) who wanted to join us on a hike, but not wanting to travel far from home.

As the day was hot, we picked a little mountain pass crossing not far from home, in the hopes that it would be cool up there... we also started early, getting up at 5:30 to be at the starting point (Gitschenen/Isenthal in Canton Uri on the East Side) by 8:15 a.m. We had lots of good luck this day: PERFECT weather (although the climb -- which was steeper than we had anticipated and which we did at about 11 a.m. -- still measured high on the sweat index....), a cable car that ran off-hours so we didn't have to wait, cool breeze and once again those stunning views at the pass, and a ride from the local forester (who was just returning from checking the damage done by deer to the forests this winter) when we got to our destination (Oberrickenbach in Canton Nidwalden on the West Side) and found out there was no bus into the Engelberg Valley. We were back home by 3 p.m., which is just about the earliest return from any day excursion that we've done.

We had more than Uncle Tobias for company... all the cows and goats from Alp Sulztal joined us on the hike, which was fun at first, then got annoying, as those goats really wanted something from our backpacks and the fences did not hold them back! We finally ditched them at an old stone barn where we recovered in the shade before the final ascent.

And BEST OF ALL, on the West side of the pass are two of the funnest cable cars (of which there are many in both Cantons Uri and Nidwalden) to ride down the mountain, previously cargo cars for local farmers, later made available for public use, although you have to be an insider to know this: The car hangs in the middle of the slope all by itself on a little steel frame... and you have to crank an old phone to contact the farmer below (who was just headed out to the fields when we called, so another piece of good luck) to start the motor to bring you down.....

Or maybe this was best of all: I congratulated Uncle Tobias at the top for his great performance for his 80 years, and his answer was: "80??? I'm 85!!!".  

The road from Isleten to Isenthal is another of those narrow roads blasted out of the cliff face, so when the bus travels the route, the cars must wait.

The road up from Lake Uri (at Isleten) into the hidden Isenthal Valley is another one of those steep, zigzag roads blasted into the cliff face. Not long ago the only way into this valley was on foot, 300m straight up.

On the way up from Flüelen on Lake Uri into the Isenthal Valley, one of those narrow side valleys barely noticeable from below in the Reuss Valley

At the back of the Isenthal Valley (the last bus stop) is a cable car called St.Jakob-Gitschenen which takes you up 600 steep meters to the Gitschenen Alp above. We were lucky we didn't have to wait.

Here at Gitschenen the farmers are busy cutting and drying their hay, perfect temperature for this.

Before starting our hike, we had coffee and croissants at the Gasthaus Gitschenen. It is 8:15 a.m.!

 

From Gitschenen we detoured into the back of one valley, then headed over the Schonegg Pass in the other valley (Sulztal). The climb to the pass was 300m, which took longer than usual because the path was pretty rough.

Little detour into the first valley

 

This portion of the hike was very easy and enjoyable, the detour into the first valley

Behind me and below is the Isenthal Valley. We are now heading into the Sulztal Valley

The cows and goats from Sulztal Alp followed us for quite a long time. Our goal (Schonegg Pass) is to the left of the three snow patches ahead.

The goats got pretty annoying because they just slipped under all the fences. We couldn't get rid of them.

VIDEO:

the cows and goats, hiking to the back of the valley with us! 

The cows we could rid ourselves of by passing under a fence, but the goats just followed us! After a long rest in the shade of this stone barn, the goats decided they preferred the shade to following us further.

Heading up to Schonegg Pass. This is looking back eastward. The barn where we left the goats: below to the left.

Finally arrived at the pass (took us 2 hours 15 mins)! After a lengthy and cool lunch break up here, our goal is Widderen Cable Car, which took us an hour.

We spent an hour up here, it was so wonderful and peaceful. Only met 3 other people up here.

On our lunch break at the Schonegg Pass, right on the border of the two Cantons Uri and Nidwalden

Urs has a good eye to spot chamois or ibex, which usually seek shade at midday

Before heading down the other side, one last look back at the Sulztal Valley, Isenthal Valley and the Uri Alps in the background (the snowy peaks are at the Klausen Pass)

Heading off to the West to descend to the cable car which we "know" about

Heading down on the west side of the pass

The meadow flowers make the heart soar

Ah, and there it is. The cargo car that three people can ride!

 

This cable car carries three people down to Oberspies 400 altitude meters below, then you switch into another tiny car for the rest of the 300 m descent. You have to phone down on the old crank phone which hangs behind the car, and the farmer below turns on the motor. There is no warning when this happens, so you have to make sure you are in the car... and you just have to wait. Then all of a sudden, it just goes.

The first part of the trip takes you to this small scattering of farmhouses, where you pay the operator (5+3 SFr. for the two cable cars) and switch to the little old red one for the last stretch.

Here's the other car on its way up, and a kestrel which is happily resting on the cable!

The second leg of the trip takes you another 300 altitude meters to Oberrickenbach below. 

This was fun! We thought the little car would crash into the motorcycle, but we just missed it by inches. 

We finished this hike an hour earlier than expected, and there was no bus making the 14:05 trip into the Engelberg Valley, so we "hitch-hiked" and got a ride down with the local forester who was doing a damage check in the forest, how much of the new-growth buds have been consumed by the deer over this long and snow-filled winter season. (This determines if more hunting is permitted....).  We were home by 3 pm, one of the earliest returns after a 3.5-hour hike that we have ever done....

As far as distance goes, this was only 7 km, but the ascent to the Pass was steep, and so the whole hike did take about 3-and-a-half hours.