A little over a
year ago I did this 13 km, 4-hour hike on my own. Urs has probably hiked
most of the 60,000 km of hiking trails in Switzerland but he had
never been to the source of the Rhine River, so this is what we
decided to do on this beautiful Sunday (Sept.25).
An excursion to
this area on the border of the two provinces Uri and Graubünden
always starts with a cogwheel train ride from the popular ski village
of Andermatt in the Urseren Valley to the Oberalp Pass. This in
itself is always worth the trip.
The hike takes you up a steep zigzag
path to the funnel-shaped valley wherein lies a jewel of a lake (Tomasee) which
you have no idea is even up here. It's a popular destination for a
Sunday outing but none-the-less peaceful, and overwhelming to think
you are at the start of one of Europe's most important rivers,
flowing about 1300 km through six countries to empty into the North
Sea. (Technically
there are two sources of the Rhine. This one, the Vorderrhein, is the
longer of the two).
At this time of
year, the moorish landscape high above the treeline is turning bright
red, rust and yellow colours, and in every direction the landscape is
stunning. We continued on from the lake a bit further back into the
valley and walked through these upland moors before returning to the
Oberalp Pass for our train ride back home (only 2.5 hours each way).
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| Gotthard-Matterhorn Train stretch from Andermatt to the Oberalp Pass in the Central Alps. |
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| At the start of our hike, looking Eastward, this is the road that descends from the Oberalp Pass into the Surselva Valley. |
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| Surselva Valley in the background (Sedrun to Disentis). The Rhine starts here and flows down that valley toward the East. |
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| I love the high alpine landscape (2300m, 7500 ft.) |
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| View just before reaching Toma Lake. This whole basin drains into the Vorderrhein, the source of the Rhine River, which flows out the valley in the back right. |
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| Last few steps before reaching Lake Toma. |
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| This is the Tomasee (Lake Toma or in native language: "Lai da Tuma"), the source of the Rhine River. |
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| The funnel valley wherein lies Lake Toma, the Source of the Rhine River. |
We walked the 10 minutes to the back of the lake where there is a soft peaty area, perfect for a picnic lunch. On the way a sign indicates that the Rhine flows 1320 km to its exit at the North Sea, but measurements done a few years ago have the total length at 1230 km. But still.
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| Heading to the back of Lake Toma. |
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| This is our picnic spot at the back of Lake Toma. |
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| This is our picnic spot at the back of Lake Toma. |
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| This is our picnic spot at the back of Lake Toma. |
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| Heading back to the front of the lake where the stream tumbles down and starts on its journey as the Vorderrhein River. |
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| This is where the stream leaves the lake to become the Rhine River. |
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| This is where the stream leaves the lake to become the Rhine River. |
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After lunch at the lake, we head further on into the valley to the moor lakes before returning to the Oberalp Pass.
(Total hike = 13 km, 4 hours) |
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| Moor landscape of the basin that empties into the Vorderrhein River. |
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| We are hiking a bit further back into the valley before returning to the Oberalp Pass |
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| We are hiking a bit further back into the valley before returning to the Oberalp Pass |
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| Walking back to the Oberalp Pass through this beautiful moor landscape. |
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| Walking back to the Oberalp Pass through this beautiful moor landscape. |
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| This is the start of the Rhine River. The Toma Lake is above, and from here you'd not even know it. |
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| Walking back to the Oberalp Pass through this beautiful moor landscape. |
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| Last stretch of our hike on the left heading to the Oberalp Pass to catch the train back. |
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| And again the beautiful landscape on the way back to Andermatt, and from there through the Reuss Valley to home. |
