Hiking in Switzerland – Gabrielle and Urs

October 20, 2021

Roundtour Hike in the Eigenthal Valley below Mt.Pilatus near Luzern

Wednesday October 20, 2021 -- For our mid-week hike we decided once again to stay relatively close to home, and chose to visit a lesser-known valley near Luzern and below the northern flank of Mt.Pilatus: The Eigenthal Valley.

We chose to do a 3-hour round tour hike starting at the second-last bus stop into the valley. The leaves are now really turning autumn colours, and especially at the start of our hike at 11 a.m., the valley looked quite lovely.

Unfortunately we lost the sunshine quickly, and the first half of the hike, which was uphill on a low thickly-forested ridge was rather cold, very muddy, and offered little in terms of view. The best part of the hike was about the half-way point when we emerged at the Oberlauelen alpine farm below the vertical walls of Mt. Pilatus.

Our plan after the descent was to have some refreshments at the Unterlauenen farm at the back of the Eigenthal Valley, but when we got there the patio was full, with people standing in line to get a place at a table. This really surprised us on a Wednesday afternoon, but the valley is easily accessed by car, with an easy 30-minute walk from the parking lot along the river to this farm -- most such farm restaurants are already closed for the season -- so an understandably good option for an afternoon walk. Needless to say, we did NOT stop for refreshments, but we enjoyed our 45-minute walk along the river back to the bus stop, opting to take our refreshments when we got back home (at 4:30 p.m., after a 90-minute sojourn with public transit!)

As we got out at the upper bus stop in Eigenthal, we looked up the valley and where we would be walking across the low ridge on the left, to return via the valley bottom. Very pretty with the sunshine and the fall colours.

That's a massive fungus!

At first we had sunshine and could enjoy the very pretty colours!

Then for about an hour we walked uphill through thick forest, on rather muddy trails.

It might seem that this trail is muddy all year round, and that is why the planks have been laid down here!

There was only one clearing where we got a view North across the pastoral landscape of Luzern

In this clearing we found a nice place to sit and have our picnic lunch

Continuing on uphill, we discovered the cutest little bench! Hardly room for two people!

Heading along some more muddy paths. The grass was easier to walk on!

Lovely fall colours at the back of the Eigenthal Valley

First glimpse of the Upper Lauelen Farm

Upper Lauelen (Oberlauelen) Alpine Farm below the North face of Mt. Pilatus

Nice farmhouse at Oberlauelen. From here we descended about 30 minutes back to the valley bottom, to the Lower Lauelen farm, where we hoped to have some refreshments and maybe a dessert!

As we approached the Lower Lauelen Farm, we could already see from here that the outside patio was full of people!

As there were already people waiting for a free spot on the patio, we decided not to stay, and headed out of the valley again. This is another look back at the restaurant Unterlauelen

A pleasant walk along the river back to the bus stop. The colours are beautiful now.

A couple of farms along the way

A look back at the North side of Mt.Pilatus, and the tree-covered ridge which we had walked on.

The little hut is the "lower" bus stop and the final stop into this valley.

Another look back up the Eigenthal Valley

It's all still very lush and green here, and the cows are happy to be out in the pastures.

A fun sign at the Post Bus Station.

A relatively short hike for us (3 hours) but there was still a lot of uphill along the forested ridge

The mint-green trail is the one we walked this day. Again, a region where we walk a lot, as it is not that far from home

October 17, 2021

Four-Hour Hike on the St.James Pilgrim Trail between Herisau and St.Peterzell

Sunday October 17, 2021 -- To change things up a bit, we went in the direction of Appenzell / eastern Switzerland this time. Not to the really popular destinations like Schwägalp or Wasserauen (our train in that direction was really full, and we assume that's where all those people were going), but to walk an easy four hours along a section of the St. James Trail, which is Switzerland's National Trail no.4, and part of the popular pilgrim trail "Santiago di Compostela".

The ca. 13-kilometer section we did started near the city of Herisau, in a small suburb called Wilen (we were the only ones who got off the train there), from where we joined the St.James Trail after a short ascent. From there it was easy up and down through the rolling hills and pastureland of the Toggenberg, admiring beautiful houses (totally different than the Emmental houses I admired three days earlier) and the views of Mt. Säntis, ending the hike in St.Peterzell which is one of the popular stops along the St.James trail.

About half of this trail (between Waldstatt and the restaurant at Sitz where we stopped once again for lunch) we had already covered before in 2017, and I had enjoyed it so much at the time that I didn't mind doing the stretch again. Also, we walked in the opposite direction, and in spring as well, so it was like a brand new hike. (Those beautiful photos can be viewed HERE). One slight disappointment was that on this beautiful Sunday, all the tables outdoors at the restaurant were occupied, and we had to eat our meal indoors. But all the cute cows and the sound of the cowbells that accompanied us on a big part of the tour made up for that.

Interesting side note: Once again our excursion started with fog. In fact, we traveled the entire two hours (in the region of Lake Bodensee) to our starting point in the fog. If we hadn't had the benefit of webcams of the area, showing clear sunny skies, we might have been dejected by this. But it was a beautiful and warm sunny late autumn day, and we really enjoyed this one.

We were the only ones who descended at this small train station called Wilen (near Herisau). The train was otherwise packed with people heading toward the popular Alpstein Massif (Säntis, Schwägalp, Wasserauen...)

A short uphill section and we join the St.James Trail (National Trail no.4)

A few typical farmhouses right at the start of the hike

A relatively easy 14-km and 4-hour hike through the rolling hills of the Toggenburg region of Switzerland (Northeast), starting in Herisau (Appenzell) and ending in St.Peterzell (St.Gallen)

Following National Trail no.4: St.James Trail. Time to reach the restaurant at Sitz is almost two hours from here (which means lunch time at 1:30 p.m.!) and St. Peterzell about 3.5 hours

The typical Appenzell/Toggenburg farmhouse consists of living quarters attached to a barn. All the properties are clean and beautifully-groomed.

Our first view of the Alpstein Massif, with Mt.Säntis being its tallest peak. The view is hazy because the morning sun is here. Later in the afternoon we saw the massif much more clearly. We sat here on a bench and had a late-morning snack.

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Enjoying the idyllic Appenzell landscape as we sit on the bench and eat a pre-lunch snack

Farmhouse near Waldstatt.

Last time we were here, we descended from this trail to the city of Waldstatt below. This time we came from the left, and are headed west.

One cow was grooming the other, and she was really enjoying it! In the background is Mt.Säntis

We passed by the town of Schwellbrunn. It claims to be the prettiest town in the Toggenburg!

A view of the pretty town of Schwellbrunn, as we pass along the ridge just to the South of it.

First Gasthaus we passed: The Hirschen (= Deer), as the sign indicates!

The last hill to climb before getting to the Restaurant: Gasthaus Sitz, which is just at the top of the hill

When we arrived at the Gasthaus Sitz, we were disappointed that all the outdoor tables were occupied (last time we were here, we were able to sit outside on the far left). We had to eat inside, and had to wait quite a long time because the family was very busy! In fact, they were so busy that their little girls were helping to serve bread baskets and sausage plates!

The superb view from the Gasthaus Sitz, toward the Alpstein Massif. This is what we enjoyed so much the first time we were here, and could sit outside.

The view out the window from inside wasn't too bad either

A display of VERY large cow bells! (The cows wear these when they do their Alp Descent Processions)

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Descending from the Restaurant Sitz, we passed a pasture where the young cows were particularly happy on this beautiful day!

Before continuing on our hike westward, we looked back over the city of Schwellbrunn to where we started our hike, which is now enveloped in fog. So we were lucky this time, to get ahead of the fog!

Along the entire 14-km trail between Herisau and St.Peterzell, we were accompanied by the sound of cow bells. The farmers are happy with the good weather, so that the cows can stay in the pastures as long as possible.

The beautiful rolling hills of the Toggenburg Region. Right after descending from the Restaurant Sitz, we crossed the Canton border from Appenzell to St.Gallen. This is now Canton St.Gallen

We were thrilled to have been able to watch a little ermine/stoat playing in the pasture. This is a rare sight!

More pastures, more cows, more farms, and more rolling hills!

Below us the village of Schönengrund, and behind is Mt.Säntis, now clearer in the afternoon light. In December 2015 we did a round-tour hike from Schönengrund up and across the ridge behind it.

More impressions of the Toggenburg.

Another immaculate farm

Close-up of Mt. Säntis

Now we reached a tiny hamlet called "Chäseren" which consists of a Gasthaus and a few residences

The old sign on the Gasthaus reminds us that "Chäseren" has to do with making cheese!

This is a very nice, newer house built in the local style.

Descending toward St.Peterzell in the upper Neckertal Valley

A final look at the Alpstein Massif and Mt. Säntis before getting to St.Peterzell

The monastery at St.Peterzell was grounded in the 12th century and the home of Monks till 1805. It is one of many religious structures along the St.James Pilgrim Trail

The most prominent building in the little village of St.Peterzell, which otherwise "boasts" only a lot of traffic as the main road goes right through the center.