Walking down the Muota Valley to Schwyz along the Pragelpass Trail

Wednesday April 21, 2021 -- Even though I did a 13-km hike on the Tuesday, the weather on Wednesday turned out better than expected, so we did another hike, together this time. A 14-km hike!

We kept our travel time short again and went to the Muotathal Valley (1 hr 15 minutes with public transit), another location with a rich history, as this valley played a role during the Napoleanic wars when the Russian General Alexander Suvorov helped drive out the French troops from Switzerland in 1799. (There are many monuments in his honour in various parts of Switzerland, including along the trail we walked, i.e a covered wooden bridge near the original bridge where the French troops fled in retreat from the Russians). After crossing the Kinzig Pass from Altdorf (where I had been the day before) and descending to Muotathal (there is a trail in his honour called Via Suvorov, which same section we followed last year), his troops spent the night in the convent here. He left some of his troops to drive the French from the valley, and he crossed the next pass to the East: The Pragel Pass.

The trail we walked along from Muotathal to Schwyz is officially known as the Pragelpass Trail (Trail no.29, total 48 km), consisting of three sections, this being the final stretch we had yet to cover. We had lots of sunshine but also some cold winds, but this easy trail along the river and then through the blossoming farms west of the Mythen mountains was not at all boring, with a good variety of different trails and lots of things to learn and observe, as usual!  And the town of Schwyz is always worth a visit. We have been here many times, and see new and wonderful things each time.

(Here is a very interesting article about Suvorov's campaign in Switzerland --> CLICK HERE

It is amazing what success he had considering the difficult 3-day crossing over the Kinzig Pass and the missing support he had expected from Austrian Troops who retreated across the Rhine unbeknownst to him as he arrived in the Muota Valley.)

We started our hike in the town of Muotathal at the back of the Muotathal Valley. At the right is the passage that leads up to the Pragel Pass

For the first 90 minutes we followed the Muota River, better known as the "wild river". The walk along the river turned out to be not at all boring.

This trail is the third section of trail no.29: The Pragelpass Trail. It was also a local "joke trail" and there were many posts set up along the way with very dumb jokes in the local dialect. We read them all!!

Heading East along the Muota River, in the beautiful Muotatal (Muota Valley)

There was actually a cold wind blowing

This particular place reminded us of when we are in high alpine country. The rock below on the right was a good place for lunch, as it was warm and protected from the wind

VIDEO:

Urs Heading to our lunch spot

Eating our picnic lunch along the Muota River

We always love seeing any covered wooden bridges

Crossing the bridge and back, to inspect the engineering

High above the valley at the top of the steep cliff  is a town called Illgau, which you can reach from here by cable-car, or via a very long ascending road which you can just see on the left.

The trail was very varied, and the water courses also, so the walk was not at all boring.

One of many dumb jokes to entertain us along the way. This one translates as follows: "The ward doctor asks the young nurse: 'The patient in Room 12, have you taken his blood yet?' to which she naively responds: 'Yes, but I just couldn't get more than six litres out of him.' "

This is a wooden bridge unlike any we have ever run into before

At this section where the river forms a lake, they built the new Stoos funicular, opened for operation in 2017, and the steepest funicular in the world. Unfortunately it was currently going through revision, so we didn't see it run. It is an impressive vehicle. 

Here is a Website with photos and interesting facts about the construction of the Stoos Funicular: CLICK HERE

This sign indicates that we have come two hours from Muotathal and have another 2 hours to Schwyz, so we are just at the half-way point of our hike. 

After the lake, the Muota River runs through a very deep ravine. It is in this ravine that many of the 3000 French troops who died during Suvarov's offensive in 1799 lost their lives when fleeing across the original bridge. This wooden bridge here, called Suvorov's Bridge, was built in his honor in 1810, just a few meters away from the original one. 

Looking down into the deep and narrow ravine from Suvorov's Bridge

Many such old barns along the way

Now we finally leave the Muota Valley and head toward Schwyz, always with the two distinctive peaks of Gross and Klein Mythen ahead of us

This beautiful old house was built in 1677

Even though we had already walked for three hours, after a long rest and on these pleasant meadow trails, we are still going strong. (Among other things, we have been to the top of the Gross Mythen and descended from there to its right, and we have also crossed between the two Mythen peaks to descend to Schwyz)

It's a beautiful time of year when the high growth trees (pears probably) are in full bloom.

Behind Urs is the popular Mt. Fronalpstock, accessed from the mountain village of Stoos, and still sporting a lot of snow

More beautiful trees.

More beautiful trees.

More beautiful trees.

There are many such fancy houses in Schwyz, some are villas, others former convents and monasteries. 

This special breed of sheep is called "Engadine Sheep" and is one of Switzerland's endangered breeds of sheep which private farmers are hoping to keep from extinction

Arriving in the beautiful city of Schwyz, capital of the Canton of Schwyz, which was one of the original three Cantons which formed the Swiss Confederacy in 1291. This town is always worth a visit.

Map of our 4-hour and over 14-km hike along Trail no.29: The Pragelpass Trail, from Muotathal to Schwyz

Our hike of the day displayed on a Google Earth Map

In Schwyz we had a bit of time before catching the bus, so we had a quick look into the church of the St.Peter Dominican Order Monastery. Here at the monastery bakery they manufacture 25,000 wafers per week for Catholic Masses.

Another attractive church like the one I had seen the day before in Altdorf: Baroque art and lots of stunning colours in that marble. 

Beautiful marble artwork

On the way to the bus stop we pass the main square with the wonderfully decorative City Hall Building. 

Main square in the town of Schwyz, with their house mountain "Gross Mythen". A year ago we did a hike from behind those mountains, passing between them and descending here to Schwyz

This building is the city archives, where the documents of confederation are stored

Google Earth depiction of the entire Pragel Pass trail from Glarus to Schwyz. We have now walked the entire 48-km stretch (minus a 1.5-km section). In yellow is the trail that General Suvarov and his 10,000 troops and horses had to follow to get to Muotathal from Altdorf, because there were no boats to cross the lake. 

Again, this area is a favourite of ours and we have done a lot of hiking here. The day before, I was in Flüelen and on part of the Swiss Trail, and this day we were in the Muota Valley. (All the turquoise lines)

For more photos of Schwyz, here is my blog entry for the hike we did last year starting at the Mythen and walking down to Schwyz:  CLICK HERE

And for the Blog Entry for the Via Suvarov Trail from the Kinzig Pass to Muotathal, which we also did last year, CLICK HERE.

Two Hikes around Lake Uri: Rütli Meadow and Attinghausen to Flüelen

Tuesday April 20, 2021 -- A glorious day, which I had off but Urs did not, so I went on a trip on my own.

As a good patriot, Urs had already at some point visited the "Rütli Wiese" (Rütli Meadow), the site of the foundation of the Swiss Confederacy in 1291, and it's a place I've always wanted to visit, so a good choice for this day. Furthermore, the morning turned out to be crystal clear, and the Rütli Meadow, being at the base of Mt. Seelisberg in Canton Uri, meant I got a most spectacular view of the Uri Alps. Furthermore, this is very close to home, only an hour to the start of my hike. 

The excursion started with a short boat ride from Brunnen to Treib, from where I walked over to the meadow (1 hour and 15 minutes), whereas most people take the funicular and then walk down from the top. Since this was an easy 5-kilometer hike for me, and since the only way out of the Rütli meadow is either by boat or a 400m (1-hour) steep ascent, I decided to take the boat to Flüelen at the very south end of Lake Uri and do a second hike in the Altdorf area, which in itself is a historical location, being the alledged birthplace of the legendary William Tell.

What I ended up doing for the second part of the excursion was taking a bus from Flüelen to a place called Attinghausen (where there is a 12th Century fortress ruins I wanted to see), and walking the eight kilometers back to Flüelen. So in all, 13 kilometers along fairly easy terrain, with loads to see and experience and a really nice variety of paths. 

FIRST PART of the EXCURSION: Treib to Rütli   (5 km)

The excursion starts with a 10-minute boat ride from Brunnen at the north end of Lake Uri to Treib, which is across the lake at Mt. Seelisberg.

As you cross Lake Uri, the Uri Alps are looking fabulous. Also, that's the Rütli Meadow in the circle.

A fantastic view South down Lake Uri

Arriving at the boat dock at Treib on Mt. Seelisberg. From here many people got off and took the funicular up. I was the only one who walked.

The sign says 1 hour 25 minutes to Rütil. I did it about 10 minutes faster, even with taking photos

This section of trail is also part of both regional trails no.99: "Swiss Path" (created in 1991 to commemorate 700 years of confederacy) and no.98: "Walstätterweg", which goes around the entire Lake Lucerne/Uri

Heading uphill, I watch my boat heading toward Luzern. Mt.Pilatus in the background.

And a look back toward Brunnen where the boat started out. In the background are the distinctive peaks of the two Mythen

Another look toward Mt. Pilatus to the West

The trees are now just about in full bloom

Rounding the corner to head South along Mt. Seelisberg. Here is another look at Brunnen and the Mythen mountains

Heading South, the Uri Alps in the background are stunning

I'm enjoying my walk, the weather is fantastic

This trail is part of both trails no.98 and 99

Below me is the Rütli Meadow

Here at the Rütli Meadow, representatives from the three original Cantons of Uri, Schwyz and Unterwalden got together and made the oath that led to the creation of the Confederation of Switzerland in 1291

A historic location: Over 700 years ago, our "founding fathers" created the Swiss Confederacy here. The view is to the North, to Brunnen.

A little walk around the area provided me with this view South down the lake, where I'm heading next.

Cute little bird called "Black Redstart" (Hausrotschwanz in German), is apparently Switzerland's most widely distributed breeding species

This decoration at the top of the boat station shows the three representatives taking the famous oath of 1291.

Here's the boat arriving at the Rütli boat station, for the 40-minute trip south along Lake Uri to Flüelen

Depiction of the 5-km trail from Treib to the Rütli Meadow along Mt. Seelisberg. A boat ride took me there and out again.

A 40-minute boat ride from Rütli to Flüelen. Wonderful weather! Almost too warm in the wind-protection of the Seelisberg cliffs.

The fabulous Seelisberg cliffs

Beautiful Mt. Bristen to the South

This community of Bauen has its own micro-climate. Very warm, lots of palm trees. Till fairly recently only accessed by boat, until they blasted a street through a whole section of cliffs only just to reach this town. 

Arriving in Flüelen

SECOND PART of the EXCURSION: Attinghausen to Flüelen  (8 km)

From Flüelen I took the bus to Attinghausen, and walked the 8 km back to Flüelen, via the very pretty town of Aldorf. The towns of Aldorf and Bürglen are very oriented to the story of William Tell, as he was allegedly born here.

Before starting on my second walk, I inspected these pretty castle ruins at Attinghausen. This structure dates form the 12th Century!!! (In the background is our beloved Schächental Valley)

A coffee break in the ruins of the Attinghaus Fortress, before continuing on my second hike.

A look up at the pretty church and chapel as I descend toward the river

Crossing the Reuss River. A few kilometers to the North it flows into Lake Uri, and out again in Luzern.

This trail is part of the Via Gottardo no.7, Via Suvorov no.55, and Via Alpina no.1, of all of which we have done several sections. 

A look South again to Mt. Bristen

Heading East across these beautiful meadows toward Altdorf/Bürglen

A look behind me to the West where I started in Attinghausen

Lots of beautiful stone wall constructions in this area

The old artillery / military building in Altdorf

The Uri museum is a very attractive building. The sign reads "Uri, the soul of Switzerland)

In the center square of Altdorf

Details of the Tell Monument in Altdorf

That's a big load he's carrying down the narrow main street!

All the attractive old signs announcing what the shops sell

The vegetation looks Mediterranean

I spent a long time walking around the attractive cemetery reading dates and names, and then I admired the inside of this fabulously beautiful baroque church.

The colour of the marble and the artistry in this church was particularly attractive

Stunningly pretty marble

Light and airy baroque style.

And then I continued North toward Flüelen. It was an easy trail with lots of variety, surprisingly away from the main road and industry

The official Via Gottardo Trail is actually below, parallel to the creek, but I found a more interesting forest trail slightly higher up.

And back at the lakeshore in Flüelen. I was very lucky that the sunshine held out for the full day, as many other parts of the country had cloud-cover

Enjoying 20 minutes of sunshine at the lakeshore in Flüelen before boarding the train home.

Google Earth map depiction of my excursion for the day, including two hikes for a total of 13 km, and two  boat rides on beautiful Lake Uri in Central Switzerland

Needless to say, this is an area we really like to hike in!