Wednesday Nov.11, 2020 -- More fabulous November weather for hiking, although at this time of year planning hikes becomes difficult, as many cable cars undergo revision for the skiing season, and so we have limited opportunities to get up into the mountains.
But one of our favourite places on a hillside high above the Reuss Valley in the Uri Alps, near a beloved alpine lake called Arnisee (Arni Lake), is accessed by two cable cars which run all year round as there are locals who live here all year. Also, this is the hillside where Urs' Dad grew up, and many members of the extended family still live and farm there, so we come up often and usually run into someone he knows. It is a beautiful area with stunning mountain backdrops, and not a tourist area, so we will often take our visitors here as well. Furthermore, the stretch we walk is not difficult, so even people who are not avid hikers can enjoy this beautiful sojourn into the mountains.
Each time we come here, we try a bit of a different variation to the hike, coming up with one of the two small cable cars, then adding on a side hike into the Intschi Valley, a detour to the North to look at the view down the Reuss Valley, a loop around the lake, or.... once we've reached the tiny hamlet called Gurtnellen Dorf, walking down to the valley bottom along a variety of different trails.
After 9 times already along the trail from Arnisee to Gurtnellen, one would think there are no new options left, but this time we did find one, a former mule trail through the woods to the site of the water feed from the Gorneren Valley to the power plant in Gurtnellen Town below. A trail which Urs had not even discovered, and even with the loss of sunshine, one which we really enjoyed.
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Crossing the Reuss Valley by bus on the way to Amsteg: This view is northwards from where we came, it promises to be a beautiful day!
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| Our cabin descending to pick us up! We only had to wait for one transfer this time, not like last time we were here on a Sunday. But after us came a group of people, so we were lucky. (The cabin transfers only four people at a time!) |
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Heading up to the hillside that is called Arni, high above the Reuss Valley. Here the valley is quite narrow, and there is a lot of shade in late fall and winter. (In some spots they only have three hours of sunshine per day in winter).
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One of my favourite views from the cable car shelter into the Maderaner Valley on the other side.
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VIDEO:
Amsteg-Arni Cable Car
Descending to Amsteg
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| This cable car connects the valley bottom with the houses at "Mittel Arni" (Middle Arni). From here you can walk northwards to "Vorder Arni" (Fore Arni) (which we did just a few weeks ago), or southwards toward the little lake: Arnisee. There is a second cable car on the South side of the lake. |
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Heading toward the lake. Some of these houses are occupied year-round.
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A look back across Mittel Arni to the cable car station, and the Mountain called "Chli Windgällen". In early July this year, we did a 2-day hike in the region to the left of that mountain.
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Across from the lake is this massive ant hill! We have observed many such ant hills on our hikes through the Swiss forests.
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Lake Arnisee, a popular spot both in summer and in winter because it can be accessed from two cable cars, and there is a nice picnic area here.
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From the Arni cable car, we walked South past the lake and then to Gurtnellen Dorf, where we usually run into some relatives of Urs'. That stretch is only two hours on a relatively easy road, so we usually add a stretch, like a descent to the valley bottom (there is a bus, but not till 15:30). This time we decided to hike along the hillside via the water feeder pipes from the Gorneren Valley to the power plant below.
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| I always admire this spot as we pass by, a trail that leads into a side valley where I have never been before. |
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As we head South, a look back toward the Maderaner Valley (across) and the Reuss Valley below, we are surprised at the sudden emergence of thick fog, for which there had been no indication whatsoever as we came South by train and bus from Lake Urnersee!
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| This used to be a favourite lunch bench of ours (at Heissigegg), but they changed everything in the past three years since we were here last! The bench used to face the other way. (By the way, we also have walked a couple of times across the hillside with the clearing on the other side of the valley). |
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A second bench has been added since we were here last. I guess it was a good idea, since the view South toward the Gotthard region from here is fantastic! (Our walk takes us across the hillside on the right)
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| Our trail (a wide gravel road) passes above and below those two clearings ahead. |
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The last couple of times we walked here, we took a detour above this house and into the side valley ahead (Intschialp), but at this time of year it looks too cold and shady
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We found a bear! (Urs = bear)
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We are glad we are above the fog, but getting worried, as it is rising quickly, and the village of Gurtnellen, where we are headed, is quite a bit lower. Originally, we had planned to walk down to the valley bottom right down there where the fog is, so that plan was scrapped.
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From the viewpoint before the descent to Gurtnellen, we can see the village, and are worried that the fog is going to roll up here. As it turns out, it dissipated shortly afterwards.
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| Heading down to Gurtnellen |
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| The pastures are still so beautifully green here! Behind me is Mt. Bristen. |
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The farmers were fertilizing their pastures with pig manure as we crossed down the hill... a typical smell in the Swiss countryside!
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A look up the Reuss Valley where the fog is still spreading some tendrils
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Arriving in Gurtnellen Village, which consists of a church, two restaurants, and a handful of homes! No fog here after all!
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There is a bus which runs from here to the valley bottom, but not often, and not between noon and 3:30 p.m. It was now 2:30 p.m. and we hadn't walked enough anyway, so we continued along a trail neither of us had done before, high above the Reuss Valley on a very nice old mule trail.
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As we continue southward along the hillside, a look back at Gurtnellen Village
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From 300m above the Reuss River, a look at the lower town of Gurtnellen, where we are going to catch the bus (bus stop along the road on the left of the picture).
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Walking along the old mule trail about 300m above the Reuss River valley bottom.
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We soon lost the afternoon sunshine here as well, but very much enjoyed the extra hour we walked here along the mountainside.
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We crossed the pipeline which brings down water from the Gorneren Valley above, and it still has a working funicular rail line!
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Descending past the Stäuben Chapel, a popular pilgrim destination, built in 1919.
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| Near the bottom, one of the buildings connected to the power plant. I had assumed that the funicular railway would surely still transport workers up into the valley, so Urs went to check out the transport wagon. |
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And sure enough, the transport wagon has seats for the workers... but this is not available to the public!
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Final section, crossing the Reuss River to the road on the other side, where we catch a bus back down the valley (northwards). This here is Gurtnellen Town, as opposed to Gurtnellen Village on the hillside.
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Our hike mapped out on Google Earth. Without any detours into the side valley, the walk from the cable car to Gurtnellen Village along mostly a wide road, takes about 2.5 hours. Our additional section took another hour.
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This is the 10th time we have been here, but the last time was in 2017....
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Here is a link to the photos of the last time we were here in May 2017: Click Here.
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