Wednesday October 23, 2019 -- Today, fog in the lowlands, clear skies in the East of Switzerland, in particular in Canton Grisons where we don't go often because it takes a long time to get there. But for the sake of some sunshine.... a 3.5-hour train ride to the Albula Valley, a UNESCO World Heritage Site i.e. specifically the Rhaetian Railway which winds through the area. [The railway crosses 196 bridges and goes through 55 tunnels on the 122 km between Thusis and Tirano,].
Of course we had to hike at least 3 hours after coming this distance (two hours won't do), so we picked the stretch from Bergün to Filisur in the Albula Valley, along the Railway Adventure Trail Albula, learning about the life in this valley during the construction of the Railway line. Temperatures were mild and warm, but the direction of the valley meant that we were soon walking in the shadow of the mountains. Best part was at the end of the hike in the village of Filisur, a village we rarely get to see when passing on the train, as it lies far below the railway line. What a lovely little main street this town has! It consists of many old Engadine-style houses, some with original construction of mid 1500's to 1700's but all wonderfully renovated in the 1900's! The large carved arched doors, the little bay windows that served as observation windows for what was going on in the street, and the intricate paintings on the house façades are simple fascinating! I was so glad we had an hour to do this instead of racing through to catch the train.
The entire Railway Adventure Trail starts in Preda (two hours to the South of where we started) and includes a Railway Museum in Bergün and a detour to the famous Landwasser viaduct, a detour which we will have to take another time. In any case, I was able to photograph the viaduct quite nicely as we passed through the tunnel on our way out of Filisur!
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| Strong locomotives are required to pull the trains up the steep slopes. This one was commissioned 1921-1929 (no longer in use), only two left in the fleet. Built by BBC, where my Dad worked when he was younger. This was outside of the museum in Bergün |
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| Heading up from Bergün (the Railway Museum is at the bottom left), looking southward toward the Albula Pass (We are heading in the other direction) |
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| I just thought this was a very pretty garden |
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| This is a glacier erratic, a boulder of Albula Granite deposited here by a glacier millions of years ago (it is also under Natural Monument Protection) |
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| Fences built with iron rails no longer needed for the railroad. That must have been a large boulder which damaged the fence like that! |
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| Heading North down the Albula Valley toward Filisur. Going uphill in the sun it was very warm and mild, especially for a mid-October day in the mountains! |
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| We are not sure what this was, maybe previously some kind of dwelling. Inside were some tools, a spinning wheel, some cooking utensils, set out sort of like a mini-museum |
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| This tiny train station is now a private residence, and no longer a stop on the railway line |
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| A cargo train heading to Filisur has to wait for the crossing with the train heading to Tirano |
TWO VIDEOS
Train Watching from the bridge near Stuls train station
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| Last bit of sun down at the bottom of the valley (This was at 12:45!) |
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| According to information placards, this place was called Bellaluna, and an unusual lady lived here by herself with her animals, running a tavern out of this building. Of course they accused her of witchcraft. She was robbed and murdered in 1988. |
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| Many such interesting information placards along the entire Railway Adventure Trail (It's now 13:24) |
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| The rest of the trail till Filisur was in the shadow of the steep mountains |
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| Back in 1568 when iron was mined in this valley, much wood was required to smelt the ore. There is lots of wood cutting going on today as well! |
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| This was not a long hike for us, only 10 km, starting in Bergün and walking to Filisur. So we were not tired when we got to Filisur, and enjoyed a whole hour to admire the beautiful buildings. |
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| The old church in Filisur, dating from 1469 |
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| People must have been really small in the middle ages! |
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| One of many wonderful Engadine Houses in Filisur |
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| The wonderful main street of the old core of Filisur |
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| House Cuminanza (This was Urs' favourite) |
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| Looking down the main road toward the train station higher up at the back |
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| Many of these houses have wonderful, intricately-carved wooden doors |
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| Jakob Schutz House, built 1667, restored 1965 |
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| Janet House, built 1727, recently restored |
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| There was no information about this house, but I thought it was very pretty |
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| Antupada House, originally used for changing horses on long trips. The paintings on the wall are some of the most significant wall paintings in Filisur, done in 1595, plastered over in 1802 and restored in 1987 |
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| This is the town library |
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| This is what we see of Filisur when we pass through on the train. You would never know it had such a lovely main street of restored Engadine Houses! |
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| Information about the Railway Adventure Trail Albula and the various interesting places along the trail (this is at the train station in Filisur) |
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| Heading back toward Chur... This is the famous Landwasser Viaduct |
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| Crossing one more of the 196 bridges! When I ride this train, I always ride in one of the older wagons, if possible, where you can open the windows and enjoy riding the train like in the Good Old Days with wind in your face! |
VIDEO
Riding the Rhaetian Railway
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| Heading home again at 15:15 on the train through Canton Grisons (Graubünden) toward Chur |
