More Sunshine along "The Vineyard Trail" in Ticino

February 14, 2018 -- After about two weeks of no excursions, this week was all about getting away from the colder-than-average February weather in the North to find some +8 deg. weather and sunshine.

Which meant heading South twice in a week! On Sunday we did the short loop hike to the Contra Dam (photos HERE), and on Wednesday we also headed to this area, to walk along the same South-facing slopes but further to the East. This way we were assured some balmy temperatures and an interesting variety of trails. We walked high above the Magadino Plain and the vineyards on a trail aptly called "Via delle Vigne" (i.e. "Vineyard Trail"), with the ever-wondrous juxtaposition of palm trees with snowy mountains as the backdrop. 

Each hike we do brings us some surprises, such as waterfalls and clear pools, or a wild-life sighting, or spotting the first flowers (lots of camellias), and tiny lizards scurrying off the warm rocks... a sure sign that spring is just around the corner!

This is the weather near home as we are heading South yet again, twice in one week..

We walked about 8 km along the "Via delle vigne" between Sementina and Cugnasco

"Fortini della Fame" and the "Chiesa Santissima Trinità"

From Bellinzona we took a bus to Sementina and headed up the hill. This is the first interesting sight: A fortification line called "Fortini della Fame" dating from 1850. Our trail took us along the wall on one side of the Sementina River, and the Church is on the other side of the river.

From the "Vineyard Trail" we look down at another historical Church: "Chiesa di San Michele" from the 17th Century.

View across Sementina and Bellinzona

Walking the "Via delle vigne" (Vineyard Trail)

It's still cold enough in the shadows to freeze the spray from the waterfalls

Urs spotted two roe deer (this one is the male with small fuzzy antlers) camouflaged in the woods some distance up the hill. It's these small surprises that make our day!

At the small collection of houses called "Redonda" we had our picnic lunch (on the little bench along the wall at the back). If the owners aren't home, we often use their benches.

Every once in a while some downed trees block our trails.

It's also always a treat to come across these hidden pools called "Pozzi". In summer we sometimes swim in them.

Along the Trail above the Magadino Plain

The forests were thick with these Ticino Palm trees, which actually grow as weeds here

Looking down across the Magadino Plain

As we walk westward, Lake Maggiore comes into view.

This looked very inviting!

Here at the village of Al Bosco we headed down through the vineyards back to valley level.

My favourite picture: Palm trees with a backdrop of snow-covered mountains

This is a typical church of this area. This one is Cugnasco, the end of our hike.

We walked approx. 8 km from Sementina to Cugnasco

Short Round Tour from Tenero to the Contra Dam

February 11, 2018 -- After about two weeks of no excursions, this week was all about getting away from the colder-than-average February weather in the North (approx. -3 deg. but that is cold for us!) to find some +8 deg. weather and sunshine.

Which meant heading South twice in a week! After a quick change of plans on Sunday (after getting to our original planned destination we realized it was the shady side of the mountain), we decided to do a small (for our standards) loop hike on a South-facing slope, one that I've wanted to do for a long time now: From the village of Tenero (near Locarno) up on one side of the Verzasca ravine, across the beautiful Contra Dam (made famous in the James Bond movie "Golden Eye") and back down the other side. We had all-round success with this one. Lots of sunshine and views and lots and lots of stairs, about 300 altitude meters on both sides. 

And always on our excursions there are special unexpected surprises: An impromptu trip across the border to Luino in Italy where we saw some relatively rare locomotives on their way North to the Carnival in Bellinzona (a 150-year-old tradition called Rabadan), and then catching the end of that same carnival parade on our way home. And particularly satisfying is to know we had a mild sunny day while this day up North was wet and cloudy.

A short detour across the border to Luino in Italy, before heading back North along Lago Maggiore

In Luino they were preparing a special "ancient" train for an extra run up to the carnival in Bellinzona (Switzerland)

Heading North again, we decided on short notice to walk up to the Contra Dam in the Verzasca Valley

The hike up the left side of the ravine to Contra consisted mostly of steps. The 7 km hike took us just over 2 & 1/2 hours.

Most of the way up to the altitude of the dam, the trail consisted of steps.

 

View of the Dam from the village of Contra

This area is lush with a type of palm tree that withstands temperatures up to -10 degrees.

A splash of colour in these Camellia bushes, some of which were already finished flowering.

Church tower in Contra

This is where we had a late picnic lunch (in Contra, overlooking the Magadino Plain)

Great view from our picnic bench across the Magadino Plain. 

I love the juxtaposition of palm trees and snow-covered mountains.

A short piece of the trail is on the road to Mergoscia, but then we head down through the steep forest to the West side of the dam.

Crossing the stunning Contra Dam (also known as the Verzasca Dam). In the center is a structure for bungee jumping.

View North into the Verzasca Valley. They have lowered the level of Lake Vogorno to accommodate the spring snow melts.

Popular adrenaline rush: Bungee jumping from the center of the Contra Dam (made famous in the James Bond movie "Golden Eye")

This is probably the smallest bench we've yet come across!

Heading back down on the other side of the ravine, through Gordemo, back to Tenero. Lots and lots of stairs.

Another pleasant surprise: I've seen old telephone cabins converted to defibrillator stations, but mini-libraries are a unique idea!

We had 20 minutes to change trains in Bellinzona and caught the tail end of their Carnival parade (called Rabadan), a 150-year-old tradition in this city.

Just one of many Guggenmusik bands that march in the Rabadan Parade in Bellinzona.

Old steam engine preparing for the 5 pm trip back to Italy

And the weather up North as we emerge from the Tunnel. Glad we were able to enjoy a sunshiny day!

Winter Hike at the "Greatest" Glacier of the Alps: Aletsch Glacier

January 28, 2018 -- Definition of "Greatest": Unusually or comparatively large in size or dimensions.

"Largest" is the word that comes to mind for me, but that's maybe a language thing. In any case, the Aletsch Glacier, which is 23 km long and at its thickest point 900m deep, is the very largest or greatest glacier in the Alps!

And the Aletsch Arena is a very large region that was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2001 and also a very large winter sport area, which was wonderful because on this most beautiful Sunday when we were expecting so many people up there, the crowds had spread out so much that it was really quite peaceful and lovely. We took it easy and did away with any uphill walking by riding various cable cars and ski lifts so that we could meander along the cleared trail above the glacier and the mighty gorge below it, and through the clichéed alpine villages with chalets covered with "snow like icing on a cake" almost deeper than some of the houses were tall! ***

And of course the Great Aletsch Glacier is a wonder, in winter as well as summer, although summer is better, and I hope to hike here again this year (did a few hikes in this region in 2014).

An additional treat: Since Switzerland's favourite holiday "Carnival" is coming soon, the various bands that take part in the parades hold practices in public places, and we were treated to such a performance! ( https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Guggenmusik )

*** The deep snow on the roofs looks fantastic, but there has been too much snow in the mountains, snow which fell on an original icy layer, and this has caused a couple of incidences of elevated avalanche danger this winter...

On the way up in the gondola from Mörel to Riederalp, this is the village of Ried-Mörel

Our first surprise of the day in Riederalp: Snow about 2m thick on the house roofs! 

I had never seen anything quite like this.

Our second surprise of the day, a "Guggenmusik" band practising for the Carnival Parades (there are hundreds of these bands participating in parades all over the country in the first two weeks of February)

After a walk through the village of Riederalp, we headed up with the ski lift (gondola for hikers) to the start of our walk at Moosfluh.

And to start, a look at the mighty Aletsch Glacier (23km in length) from the viewing platform.

And to the North across the gorge (the tongue of the Aletsch Glacier is below) is a side glacier called the Upper Aletsch Glacier. Where the two gorges meet is a huge suspension bridge that we want to cross this year. 

Heading West we have the distinctive Mount Matterhorn in our sights.

Very few skiers on the pistes, and not a lot of hikers either. The region is huge so it spreads out quite a bit.

It was a wonderful, beautiful day with perfect weather conditions. Warm, no wind, crisp snow.

No wonder the Matterhorn is a favourite. It is definitely a recognizable peak.

Now we reach the same level as the Upper Aletsch Glacier. There is a bridge in the middle that spans the gorge....

This is a zoomed shot of that bridge, piled high with snow. This year we want to hike here.

We found just the right spot for a picnic lunch. The ridge on the right, we walked across that in 2014. It's much larger than it looks! (Mounts Bettmerhorn and Eggishorn)

Across the Massa Gorge (which is the river that flows out of the Aletsch Glacier) is the village of Bruchegg near Belalp (also a popular ski area). You can see how easily the slopes release the snow to cause avalanches

From here we have quite a descent to Riederfurka, the restaurant/hotel is at the bottom, and the building above is a museum. Behind it is the Massa Gorge.

Villa Castel Nature Conservation Center. 

Heading back down to the village of Riederalp where we started.

Some animal seems to have jumped the gap between the road and the roof

We decided to stop at this bakery for cake and coffee on the terrace before walking another couple of kilometers to the next village to the East, Bettmeralp, from where we took the cable car back down to the Upper Rhone Valley

So much snow on all the roofs!

This one was my favourite, the snow is almost higher than the cabin!

We started with a gondola ride from Mörel in the Upper Rhone Valley to Riederalp, then another gondola ride to Moosfluh, the start of our walk. Back in Riederalp, we decided to continue to Bettmeralp to descend from there.

And on the way home, out of the train window. There's even a plane in the upper left corner...

All the hikes we've done in this area so far (Aletsch Arena)