From Langnau to Eggiwil in the Emmental

November 1, 2017 -- Not all of our hikes are ideal, and this one wasn't one of my favourites. The weather was good and we had nice views, but I wasn't prepared for about half of the tour to be on paved roads. I can walk a long time on meadow and forest trails, and especially on high alpine trails, but asphalt tires me out within minutes.

It was a cold morning, so our long uphill climb on the shady side of the mountain was actually quite enjoyable. Here the trails were good and interesting and the cows are thrilled to be out in this weather, so we were accompanied by the cowbells, which is always a treat. But there was more forest than views, which I hadn't been expecting. Still, I was able to get some nice photos. We were accompanied by views of the typical rolling hills of the Emmental along the way, and where we stopped for lunch (Blapbach) we saw a few of the snowy peaks of the Bernese Alps. The restaurant is known for its meringue desserts, but it was so busy that our order took a long time coming, so no time for dessert. Instead we bought some meringues when we got back down to the valley, and made our own dessert at home (also WAY cheaper that way!)

The most interesting feature on this tour was that we unexpectedly came upon one of the very oldest tunnels in Switzerland. We all know the Swiss have been building tunnels galore, but this one called the "Hegenloch" was blasted by locals in the mid 1800's using only Bernese black powder as an explosive. The "rock" is what they call "puddingstone", probably easier to blast than other rock, but still it made me think of the difference between cutting down a tree with an axe or a chainsaw....

Another 13 km hike in the Emmental, 4 hours, from Langnau to Eggiwil, about 600 altitude meters both up and down.

Cows are happy to be outside in the crisp weather

This farmer just sent his mamas and babies out to the pasture to enjoy the lovely morning as well

The farmer just sent his mamas and babies out to the pasture to enjoy the lovely morning as well

The Emmental is a pastoral landscape of low rolling hills

Carved from the Siamese Twin Tree

Here in the Emmental they prefer Simmental cows to the Swiss Brown

The Hegenloch tunnel is one of the oldest tunnels in Switzerland 

The Hegenloch tunnel is one of the oldest tunnels in Switzerland 

We walked through a lot of sun-dappled forests. These sections of trail are preferable to the paved roads

As we got close to the restaurant (after 3 hours of walking) we finally got the view I was expecting the whole way

The peaks of Wetterhorn, Schreckhorn and Finsteraarhorn from the Bernese Alps are just visible on the horizon

I could say this one picture made the 4-hour hike worthwhile

Restaurant Blapbach, where we had a very good lunch on the terrace, is a popular restaurant and we had to wait a long time for our food. Any mountain restaurant accessible by car will be bound to be popular on such a beautiful fall day.

On the last hour steep downhill to Eggiwil, the view South was unfortunately quite hazy

In any case, the Emmental farms and houses are always a highlight

On our descent to Eggiwil we passed many interesting Emmental buildings.

On our descent to Eggiwil we passed many interesting Emmental buildings.

Crossing the Emme River before reaching Eggiwil

Hotel feature in Eggiwil

Hoping to "score" some meringues before the bus came. Bakery was open, but there was no one there to serve us. The owner must have gone upstairs for a quick nap.

Hotel in Signau, where we changed from bus to train

Five minutes till the train in Signau, and we found the meringues in a butcher shop!

And here's the made-at-home dessert.... (ice cream, meringue and whipped cream)

From Rasa in the Centovalli to Brissago on Lago Maggiore

Sunday October 28, 2017 -- We make many trips to the Locarno area in Southern Switzerland, so much so that we are running out of ground that we want to cover, or so it seems.... 

Every time we have traveled over the Magadino Plain we have admired the ragged cliff walls of the mountains that separate Lake Maggiore from the Centovalli and wondered what it would be like to walk up there. From the Centovalli side there is a cable car from Verdasio to Rasa that saves some 500 altitude meters, cutting the uphill portion to only 500m. On the East side though, there is nothing to be done but to walk the 1200 m back down to the lake.

Yet the view that hits you when you get to the ridge is a memorable one, mostly because it's from an unusual angle. We've seen the lake from the top of Cimetta to the North and Monte Gambarogno to the East, but never from here to the West. 

In striving to lengthen our hiking season we look to areas where there is yet no snow at higher elevations, but this hike would have been way more enjoyable if we hadn't had to slog our way uphill for two hours through boot-deep piles of beech leaves on a mostly steep incline. Or the fact that on the Brissago side the bus that makes the steep run up to the top of the village does not run on Sundays, meaning an extra 30 minutes added to our downhill portion.... although I can't complain. Other than sore feet, it was all stairs, about 1.5 km of stairs, and I love stairs.

Traveling across the Magadino Plain, we have often seen the mountain range that separates Lake Maggiore from the Centovalli, and wondered what it would be like to walk on that ridge.

Coming up from the other side, the red line is approx. where we walked down to the lake on this side.

Our 12-km hike started in Rasa after a cable-car ride from Verdasio. This saved us 500m of uphill climbing. Still it was 2½ hours and 500m uphill to Alpe di Naccio, then 1200m downhill to Brissago, another 2½ hours.

We have been in the pretty mountain village of Rasa several times already.

Hiking uphill from Rasa in the Centovalli

The charming mountain village of Rasa in the Centovalli

Heading toward the mountain range from the West.

The trail would have been nice if it hadn't been hidden by so many leaves... you had to place each foot carefully, not knowing what was beneath...

The two-hour uphill trek was worth it for this view South along Lago Maggiore. This view is actually into Italy, as we are very close to the border.

Another 20 minutes uphill and we were at Alpe di Naccio, looking North. Not sure about the Yoga People....

Below us at the back, the Ticino River enters the lake from the Magadino Plain. Closer to us, the Maggia River enters the lake from the Maggia Delta at Locarno/Ascona

  

Spectacular panorama view of Lake Maggiore, the Maggia Delta, the Magadino Plain, Monte Gambarogno across the lake, and the Brissago islands below. 

Below are the Brissago Islands (Isole di Brissago). Across the Lake is Monte Gambarogno, where we have also done several hikes.

Close-up look at the Isole di Brissago

Heading down to Brissago, we can see the first houses we will pass by (bottom left)

Around the corner we were arrested by this fantastic ragged wall of rock: "Stunning" is all I could think of.

More fantastic rock formations. Finally, we get to see up close what we have often seen from across the plain.

Lago Maggiore at the border of Switzerland and Italy

Lots of steep downhill through chestnut and birch forests toward the lake.

This is the only wild animal we came across in the forest this day!!!

As we reach the outskirts of Brissago, we now descend 200m or 1½ km of stairs! Along the way passing lots of villas and palm trees, as here near the lake is a Mediterranean climate.

1½ km of stairs past villas, churches and lots of palm trees.

This is an olive tree. We don't see many of them here. But still, it is very much a Mediterranean-type climate.

All kinds of interesting vegetation that we usually run across in Italy...

In all the hike was about 4½ hours with over 1200 meters of descent. The steep descent portion translates to many more "performance" kilometers than the total 13 kilometers of this hike! 

Running out of places to hike...