Another Trip to the Verzasca Valley

September 13, 2017 --  Just one week after having been here we returned, this time with my nephew from Toronto, here on a short visit as part of his European Adventure.

This outing was near the front of the valley along Lake Vogorno, a 6-km long reservoir lake created by damming the Verzasca River. Our starting point at the famous "Ponte dei Salti" in Lavertezzo was intentional, as the location is a popular "Must See" on almost every tourist's agenda, as advertised in most popular tour guides. And justly so: the water is an uncomparably clear turquoise colour, rushing over unusually-shaped and striped rocks. And the area around the bridge is popular for swimming (cold cold water) and some even attempt the jump off the bridge (as my son had, four years earlier).

There are hiking trails all the way along the river from the very back of the Verzasca Valley at Sonogno, right to the Contra Dam, popularized by the James Bond movie "Golden Eye". Our plan: First along the easy western trail to the bridge at Corippo, lunch in a typical Ticino Grotto (homemade porcini risotto with braised pork hocks or beef pot roast) and then on to the East side of the lake, a less-traveled and sometimes challenging trail that took us through several typical Rustici villages to the mighty dam, where unfortunately there was no bungee jumping going on this day. That would have been fun to watch.

13 km in about 5 hours and Josh did mightily well, and says he rather enjoyed it. Notwithstanding his jet lag....

**Pour mes amis du Belgique: Un jour dans la Vallée Verzasca avec mon neveu Josh de Toronto, qui était ici pour deux jours. La vallée, avec ses montagnes abruptes, eau uniquement transparente et turquoise, répendu de grosses roches striées, villages typiques rustici, et le barrage Contra présenté dans le film "Golden Eye" (James Bond) est une destination populaire, et comme toujours il y a avait beaucoup de gens, sauf sur le chemin que nous avons choisi, plutôt à l'Est du Lac de Vogorno, en tout 13 km et cinq heures du "Pont des Sauts" à Lavertezzo jusqu'au barrage.

Our day starts in the village of Lavertezzo, location of the well-known Roman Bridge "Ponte dei Salti"

Ponte dei Salti (name of the bridge) across the Verzasca River at Lavertezzo

Ponte dei Salti (name of the bridge) across the Verzasca River at Lavertezzo

Ponte dei Salti (name of the bridge) across the Verzasca River at Lavertezzo

Our 13-km hike started with an hour walk (4 km) on the West side of the river Verzasca, then lunch at the Grotto near Corippo, then across to the East side above Vogorno Lake to the Contra Dam

Verzasca River

The river has carved out a hole in the rock. Maybe there was a boulder in there once, creating this rock basin.

We saw another legless lizard, but it was barely moving. Maybe it had been stepped on.

Verzasca River shortly before it heads into the lake

This is a typical Ticino Grotto, a local tavern where you can get good home-cooked meals, usually with Risotto and Polenta.

At the Grotto Al Bivio near Corippo, in the Verzasca Valley.

Our Porcini Risotto with braised pork hocks for Josh and beef pot roast for Urs.

Grotto Al Bivio near Corippo in the Verzasca Valley.

The second part of our hike on the East side of the lake was a bit more challenging, lots of up and down sections.

Across the lake is the little village of Corippo hanging on the mountainside.

Below us the road into the valley. We walked through several typical Rustici villages

Lake Vogorno in the Verzasca Valley

Town of Berzona on Lake Vogorno, Verzasca Valley

This little hamlet called Fontöbbia was hidden in the forest and we would have missed it had we not been following the trail on the map

Some of the trail was more challenging and would not have been good to do right after last week's heavy rains.

Close to the dam now, across the lake is the town of Mergoscia. We have been there several times, most recently when we walked down from the saddle at the back of this side valley (called the Mergoscia Valley)

And then we got to the dam, our destination for the day. Top left: View North across the reservoir. Bottom Left: View out of the valley with the turbine building. 

Contra Diga (Verzasca Dam). I was last on this dam 30 years ago. There is a contraption in the center for Bungee Jumping, the venue is called "007 Golden Eye Bungy Jump". The dam features in the opening two minutes of the James Bond "Golden Eye" movie.

(Typically the lake is this low. Photo taken April 2017)

We spend a lot of time in this area! Three times in the Verzasca Valley this year, twice in the Mergoscia Valley

Looking for Pozze in the Valle Verzasca

September 6, 2017 -- Our regular Wednesday off, nice weather only in the South, so off we go again, to one of our favourite places ever, the Verzasca Valley. It is stunning and never boring, no matter how often we go.

This time we were looking for secluded mountain pools (Pozze, in Italien) created by waterfalls, of which there are many here, but to reach them you have to climb steep hills, and if you want to find really secluded ones, you have to find the unofficial trails, some of them so unofficial they don't even exist (in other words, straight up slippery leaf-strewn slopes with little hope of getting back down!)

So with two uphill hikes, one on each side of the Verzasca River, we discovered so many lovely pools, some too cold and too mighty to attempt to enter, others smaller and "warmer" (relatively speaking) and worth the freezing dip. And most of all, sunshine and no rain!

The Verzasca River at Motta. We ended up hiking on each side to look for waterfall pools.

First a "photo shoot" beside the clear turquoise waters of the Verzasca River

Heading South to the first waterfall in the gap ahead. Our first 200m uphill hike was straight up throught the forest parallel to the river.

Straight up through the forest (no trail) to the first set of pools (Luckily we saw the "unofficial" trail on the map, for the way down)

Finally found the first pool. I was here 30 years ago. But there was less water at the time.

The spray from the waterfall was too cold so we decided not to stay long.

As beautiful as this was, we were a little wary about trying to go in for a swim. Also, IT WAS COLD!

Over hundreds (thousands?) of years, the water carves out these rock-cut basins. This is fascinating.

Back down at the Verzasca River, I tried the river water.... also too cold! In the background is Motta, we are headed up above there, 250m straight up.

Back down at the Verzasca River before heading back across the bridge and up above Motta.

200m uphill above the road was a second pool we knew of. We actually covered the height in only 30 minutes. Because it's so steep, you gain altitude quickly.

Along the steep narrow trail above Motta, heading to the second set of pools.

We knew of this pool from a previous hike we did here in the spring.

This one was slightly less cold, so we gave it a try. But only slightly less cold!

Slightly higher was another set of waterfalls and pools, so we also checked that out.

Here is a series of terraces, pools and waterfalls.

300 m almost straight up from the road are a series of waterfalls and pools, which we also checked out.

300 m almost straight up from the road are a series of waterfalls and pools, which we also checked out.

300 m almost straight up from the road are a series of waterfalls and pools, which we also checked out.

What a wonderful location for a vacation home. 

Time to head back to the Verzasca River to catch the bus back out of the valley. The sunny spot in the back, that's where we went up to find the first pool.

Back down at the river in Motta, where we can catch the bus back out of the valley.

A last glimpse way up to the peaks from which come the waters for that last set of pools.

Irrigation Channels Bineri and Eggeri above Grächen, Canton Valais

September 5, 2017 -- We had five days of vacation recently, and what I really wanted to do was spend the whole time in Canton Valais in a vacation home, doing daily hikes in the area, for example to the Great St.Bernard Pass (where I have never been), maybe to Chamonix to see Mont Blanc, a suspension bridge hike near the Aletsch Glacier, a 5-lake hike near the Matterhorn, and so much more. 

The first week in September should be ideal for this, but we had a late August cold front pass through, with snow down very low, and the only nice day in the Valais was on Tuesday. So we did spend the day there, but had to give up any idea of going above 2000 m, as 4-7 degrees was simply too cold for me.

Instead we chose an irrigation channel hike, which we like to do as well, as the flumes and channels are fascinating, and it is pleasant to walk next to the running water. In the mountain village called Grächen are four lines of irrigation channels, the largest and most popular line being the "Eggeri" trail, so that's what we went for. What a disappointment that apparently the water source had been "turned off" or diverted somewhere, and the ditch was empty! No babbling water to accompany the hike, which would have been rather boring otherwise.

So we cut the hike short (originally planned 14 km, reduced to 10 km) and returned via a smaller and prettier irrigation channel where the water was running! But we couldn't complain about the weather: at 1800m it was sunny and pleasant, and we did get a peek at the peak of the Matterhorn, lovingly called "The Horn" in these parts.

Old house on raised mushroom posts, typical of this area.

Beautiful slate slab roofs

Looking over the town of Grächen and South along the Matter Valley. At the very back on the left, we can just see the peak of Mount Matterhorn.

Zoomed view of the peak of the Matterhorn, known in this area simple as "The Horn"

Just 3 km into our hike it was lunchtime, so we stopped at this pretty terrace restaurant with a view across the valley to Embd.

Lunch at the "Jägerstube" on their view terrace.

Looking North toward the Rhone Valley.

At the northernmost point of our hike, this is a view into the Matter Valley, which joins the Rhone Valley at the back. The city of Visp lies at the joining of the two valleys.

After lunch we ascended 100m to the Eggeri irrigation line, which normally brings water from the glacier at the back, but on this day the water must have been diverted, because the ditches were empty.

After a 100m uphill hike we join the Irrigation Trail heading South

I would not like to pass through a field of these Val d'Herens fighting cows, typical cows of this area.

 

After all the effort to get here, there was no water in the channels. We continued for about 4 km in the hopes there would be water SOMEWHERE, and then gave up. 

After all the effort to get here, there was no water in the channels. We continued for about 4 km in the hopes there would be water SOMEWHERE, and then gave up. 

On a lower irrigation trail, the water was running, which made the hike back to Grächen more enjoyable.

On a lower irrigation trail, the water was running, which made the hike back to Grächen more enjoyable. The trail itself was more interesting as well.

Back at the village of Grächen with its pretty homes.