A Favourite Hike with Friends: Arni Lake High Above the Reuss Valley

Posted on June 14th:  I can't believe it has been 3 weeks already since we had a visit from our lovely friends Anna and Sandy from Vancouver, who really lucked out with beautiful weather for their short Europe trip.

May 23, 2017 -- There is a hike which is a favourite of ours which we have done with most of our out-of-country visitors: a 10 km hike, not too strenuous, but with a little bit of everything: Cable cars, a lake, lots of views of high mountains and steep side valleys, alpine chalets, and lots of Swiss Cows! (Unless it's mid summer, then they are higher up the mountains).

This hike is above the Reuss River Valley (one of Switzerland's most important rivers) in the Uri Alps North of the Gotthard Pass, an area just as beautiful as, although less marketed than the Bernese Alps. The tour starts after a short steep ride in a tiny cable car (max.4 people) to a scattering of mountain homes near a lake called Arni Lake. After a short detour to the North to look over the Uri arm of Lake Lucerne and the entrance to the world's longest railway tunnel (57 km), we headed South to the little hamlet called Gurtnellen, and took a bus from there back down to the Reuss Valley.

I think it was a very successful hike. And I think of all the people who have come up here with us, these two had the best weather!

First you have ascend 800m with tiny cable car from Amsteg in the Reuss Valley to Arni on the alp

This steep short ride takes you from the Reuss Valley to a mountain alp 800m up

The tiny cable car seats only four people, and all the mail and goods for the village and the restaurant also get transported up this way. Also, it's one of many such cable cars where you have to phone up first to let them know you need a ride. And you pay at the top.

From the cable car station at Middle Arni you get the best view into the Maderaner Valley, an upper side valley to the Reuss Valley.

First a 15-minute detour to the North to look at the Uri arm of Lake Lucerne, and the North entrance of the new Gotthard Base tunnel, at 57 km the longest railway tunnel in the world.

Beautiful duo in front of beautiful Mount Bristen

This view is looking North after we passed the cable car station on our way South.

What would Swiss mountains be without the Swiss cows!

On the left, the transport cable car is on its way from the summit cable car station to the restaurant

Walking around Arni Lake, a little jewel on this upper alp.

Near the lake is a look-out point high above the Reuss Valley (Old Amsteg Hydro Plant below). In the back, the winding road into the Maderaner Valley. This road was washed out a few months ago, leaving the valley residents cut off for several weeks. 

Arni Lake. The water level is usually higher.

This is the traditional spot for stopping for lunch, with a view South toward the Gotthard Massif

Traditional lunch bench and lunch meadow, with all our friends who've been here with us before

We are taking an alternate, more interesting route, used mainly by the inspectors of the water supply system.

We are taking an alternate, more interesting route, used mainly by the inspectors of the water supply system.

Crossing the Intschialp stream in a side valley. One can walk up the mountains at the back, but that's for another day!

Our creek water is so clean, we always fill our bottles up like this on our hikes.

Heading South again toward Gurtnellen.

Another view South into the Reuss Valley before descending to Gurtnellen Village (behind the trees on the left).

The meadows are full and lush at this time of year.

My favourite part of the hike, walking through the meadows.

My favourite part of the hike, walking through the meadows.

Swiss Chocolate tastes better because the milk comes from cows who eat these meadow flowers.

Our destination: Gurtnellen Village, still 200m above the Reuss Valley, so we are waiting for the little bus to take us down.

A favourite hike, above the Reuss Valley near Amsteg. Total 10 km, takes about 3 hours to walk. 

Switzerland's Centovalli and Italy's Valle Vigezzo

Wednesday May 24th, 2017 -- Toward the last week of May we had a visit from dear friends from Vancouver, Canada, so we organised a fabulous day trip for what turned out to be our hottest day so far this year (30deg.)

In this small country you can go far in one day, and our route took us through the longest train tunnel in the world (57 km, officially opened exactly one year ago) at 200 km/hr, greatly cutting down the time it takes to go South to the Italian part of Switzerland, an area so different from the stereotype Swiss landscapes normally encountered by foreigners. 

Especially in the many side valleys, such as the beautiful Centovalli where we spent most of the day, the small villages of stone homes cling precariously to steep hillsides amid lush undisturbed forests. We boarded and descended the train several times to visit four of these villages, including a 1.5-hr hike through dense woods to reach one of them (with three snake sightings) and a steep cable-car ride to another, where we ate home-made saffron and portobello mushroom risotto on the terrace of the Grotto while enjoying spectacular views. 

At the last village in Camedo on the Swiss-Italian border, we boarded the train to Domodossola in Italy, continuing along the valley which is called Valle Vigezzo on the Italian side. Sandy had never been in Italy before, so this was her chance for the Italian experience of gelati and macchiati. Anna, well she's already a pro. 

Our trip back took us through the Simplon and Lötschberg tunnels, two more of Switzerland's masterpieces where the trains also travel 200 km/hr, which greatly shortens the time it takes to return home via Berne.

One day, two countries, 450 kms, tours of four Swiss Villages and one Italian city, a cable car ride, a 1.5-hour hike, and travel through the longest railway tunnel in the world... that's what I call making the most of a Day Pass!!!

200 km/h is not particularly fast, as the train travels at this speed through many of Switzerland's tunnels (the TGV in France travels at 300 km/hr). What is special here is that at 57 km, the Gotthard Base Tunnel is the longest railway tunnel in the world and also the deepest (2.3 km) . It took 17 years to build and was officially opened on June 1, 2016. 

Our trip through the Centovalli (= "One Hundred Valleys") started with a one-hour stop in Intragna, the village at the start of the valley, with the tallest church tower in the Canton of Tessin (Ticino).

FART is the name of the regional train and bus system here: "Ferrovie autolinee regionali ticinesi" but it's funny every time. 
 

Right now they are redoing all the alleys in Intragna, all by hand.

Main Squre in Intragna. The entire cobblestone paving was recently redone, all by hand.

Intragna, Switzerland. The church tower is the tallest in the entire Canton of Ticino.

The climate is mild here and there are many palm trees (a special palm that can stand up to -10 degrees of cold). Terrain is steep with many gorges, and the forests, mainly chestnut, are thick and lush. Villages of stone houses dot the hillsides and access is on foot after a steep climb.

Looking East from Intragna toward Locarno (where we came from). The valley is wider here.

Back on the train, we are heading westward into the Centovalli to our next destination.

The second village we wanted to visit, called Verdasio, is one of the best maintained villages in this valley, and although it can be reached by car, on foot it takes up to 45 minutes, depending on which side you start. We got out at Palagnedra to the West (a tiny train station whose village is actually over an hours' hike across the valley to the South) and hiked in the heat through the unkempt wild forest on a steep trail. Snakes are out. We saw two grass snakes on this section, and possibly a viper as well.

A good group of hikers: We made it to Verdasio in just 40 minutes.

To get to Verdasio on foot, you have to walk 45 minutes from the West, or 30 minutes from the East.

Grass snakes were sunning themselves along the trail. (Photo Credit: Sandy, as she had the better vantage point).

On the trail to Verdasio

We're glad the forest was cool for this uphill climb.

From Verdasio, this is the view westward. The Centovalli continues across the border through Italy as the Vigezzo Valley.

Verdasio, Switzerland.

In Verdasio, Switzerland.

In Verdasio, Switzerland.

As the restaurant in Verdasio was closed, we just used their patio for our coffee break. 

... and purchased a locally made carbonated drink called "Gazosa" from the cool box provided by local workers.

  

In Verdasio, Switzerland

From Verdasio we look across the valley to Rasa perched on the hill. That's where we are going for lunch. The town is accessible only on foot or by cable car.

Heading to the train station in Verdasio, 30 minutes to walk to the East. From there it's with the cable car up to Rasa

There are not a lot of places in Switzerland anymore where you can walk across the railway lines.

Our third village stop was the charming Rasa, perched on a hilltop on the South side of the valley, accessible only on foot or via cable car. We had only about one hour time up there, so we had pre-ordered our lunch (homemade saffron and portobello mushroom risotto, not actually on the menu and available only on pre-order) at the lone restaurant (called a Grotto). Another reason for this stop: the church is dedicated to Santa Anna, and we thought our dear Anna would like this, which she did.

For many small cable cars in Switzerland you have to call up to let them know you need a ride.

St. Anna's Church in Rasa

Anna, in St.Anna's Church in Rasa

We had reserved and pre-ordered our lunch, saffron and portobello mushroom risotto.

In Rasa, Switzerland.

In Rasa, Switzerland.

From Rasa, this is a zoomed view across the valley to Verdasio, where we had been a couple of hours earlier.

Back down at the station in Rasa, we are waiting for the Centovalli train to take us to our next stop, the border town of Camedo.

Riding the Centovalli train, it's still possible to open these windows and hang out!

Riding the Centovalli train toward the Italian border.

Our last stop on the Swiss side: Camedo, only 40 minutes for a quick look around before heading into Italy

 Along the Centovalli (Switzerland) and Valle Vigezzo (Italy)

The Centovalli Train travels from Locarno (Switzerland) to Domodossola (Italy). We were able to stop along the way in Locarno, Intragna, Verdasio, Rasa, Camedo and Domodossola. We all snoozed a bit on the Italian side, a 1.5-hour train ride gently rocking us to sleep, although the scenery was also quite beautiful.

Along the way on the Italian Line: Cathedral "Madonna del Sangue" in the town of Re.

The wild and beautiful Valle Vigezzo in Italy.

Emerging from the Valle Vigezzo toward Domodossola. This is in Piedmont, Italy, also renowned for its wines.

Our last stop before heading home was in the city of Domodossola in Italy, to discover its charms and mostly of course for the coffee and icecream. Coffee = Macchiato, a type of Espresso served with milk, and IceCream = Gelato, or rather Gelati in our case (plural) because you can't just stop at one. It was the perfect way to end the "Italian" part of our trip, relaxing at a café and watching the people, before heading on the last, 3.5-hour train ride home.

We had two hours to discover the charms of old town Domodossola

Old Town Domodossola

Enjoying gelati and macchiati (only 1 Euro each, but they were small) at a Café in Domodossola

And the absolute "Icing on the Cake", the fantastic sunset as we changed trains in Zurich Station. (Photo credit to Anna).