Hiking the "Sentiero di Medeglia" for Panoramic Views

April 23, 2017 -- Another trip South to flee the cold and snow to do what has the semblance of an alpine hike: A climb, a longer level stretch with views, a summit above the tree level with 360's and then a descent.

The trail called "Sentiero di Medeglia" near Bellinzona is a lesser known hiking trail in the Ticino in the Isone Valley, and although it delivered on the views, it was otherwise a bit monotonous, with the steep ascent and descent through typical Ticino chestnut forests, and the rest of the "trail" being a high dirt road with a paved section, as the area is used by the military for training purposes, and so they need to get up here with their vehicles. 

The fantastic view at the summit of the Medeglia Peak was worth the effort, although a cold wind was blowing, and to my pleasure the first part of the descent was on a trail such as we would normally find in the Alps. On the way down to Medeglia we passed through one of our favourite mountain hamlets called a Monti. Well, one is better than none!

Total time suggested for this hike is four hours, but we didn't rush through it. We stretched our day to make the most of the sunshine, with a nap at about the half-way point. 

Heading East up the Isone Valley by bus. The mountain we are climbing is on the left side of the valley.

Isone is the training ground for the Swiss Military, Grenadier Division. 

The 12-km hike started in Isone at the back of the valley, then climbed a steady 680m to the Medeglia Peak, and then descended 725m to Medeglia.

After an hour uphill climb we reach the "high road" on the North side of the mountain. Lunch Time!

Despite the views, the trail was mostly a wide dirt road always slightly uphill, westward toward the Medeglia Peak.

Along the entire 5 km on the North side of the hill we had great views into the Leventina Valley....

... and lots of views onto the Magadino Plain, with Locarno at the back on Lake Maggiore

Once in a while there are some splendid birch groves, as an alternative to the chestnut forests.

Last uphill slog before reaching the peak (in total, 680 altitude meters to the peak)

Finally at the summit. Normal time to here was 2 hours 30 minutes, plus another 1:20 to go down to Medeglia

The 360-degree views did not disappoint! Here's looking West.

View to the North (Leventina Valley)

View to the South-East. That distinctive peak is called "Denti della Vecchia" (Old Lady's Teeth) and we walked that ridge a couple of years ago.

View to the South. The second ridge at the back on the left is Monte San Salvatore, which we walked in November 2016.

Heading back down there is a bit of an alpine feel before reaching the thick forests.

This is Troggiano, a hamlet of Rustico homes. We love these "Montis" built on the steep hillsides.

In the hamlet called Troggiano

We saw the first Gentians of the season, and the Narcissus Poeticus is stunning.

Our approach to Medeglia, the end of our tour. The bus stops right in front of the church.

 

The stone walls are even prettier with flowers...

The Wisterias add lots of colour.

 

Waiting for the bus at the Church in Medeglia, to take us back out of the Isone Valley.

I didn't really realize how high we had to hike. No wonder I needed a nap half-way to the peak!

Another trip to the "Apple Gardens" of Canton Thurgau

(Posted on May 2, 2017)

Saturday April 22, 2017 -- On this Saturday April 22nd we returned to the main fruit-growing area of Switzerland to see the end of the apple blossoming season, as the blossoms were expected to be at their height over the Easter weekend. But because Easter weekend and the week following were so cold, we thought the blossoms might have been delayed a bit.

What we found instead were apple trees glowing a shade of ochre from afar, but on closer inspection were trees in full bloom with all the blossoms turning brown, a sure indicator that they had been damaged by the freezing temperatures.

Temperatures were still cold on the day of our hike, with cold winds blowing and hazy air, so not even good views of the Eastern Alps or Lake Constance (Central Europe's third-largest freshwater lake) in the North to provide a reward for our efforts. Although, as usual, there were all kinds of pleasant villages, livestock and landscapes along the way.

Our 13-km walk took us from Berg in Canton Thurgau to Altnau on Lake Constance, slightly further West than the last hike we did in this area. Altnau is the hub of the apple orchard area, particularly the more modern, low-growth, high density style of planting. Most of the "fruit gardens" as they are called here are decked out with an extensive array of nets to protect the fruit from hail. Probably won't be necessary this year.

Start of our hike in Berg, Canton Thurgau

The trail took us for a short piece into a magical forested area.

The trail took us for a short piece into a magical forested area.

An enterprising lady was serving tea and coffee in this quaint wagon, but we had no time to stop.

There were still many blossoming trees as we passed this area.

Some farmers haven't switched to low-growth trees: These trees have value as nesting places for birds.

High-growth trees can also be combined with grazing land for cows.

So many farmers have covered their barn roofs with solar panels to provide electricity for their operations.

Lots of interesting barn structures.

 

The blossoming trees had a distinctive brown hue due to frost damage.

We found a nice place to stop for lunch, but the wind was cold!

More old farmsteads along the way.

This one was just pretty funny!

As we approached the city of Altnau we got the first views of Lake Constance to the North. 

This Common Kestrel is a rare sight in the lowlands.

Many of the plantations have extensive net-work to protect from hail

Modern apple orchards remind me of my Canadian home.

End of our 13-km hike in Altnau on Lake Constance

We walked 13 km in a northward direction from Berg to Altnau

Largest apple growing area in Switzerland is in Canton Thurgau on Lake Constance.

Monte San Giorgio: UNESCO World Heritage Site

April 19, 2017 (Wednesday) -- Monte San Giorgio, a small wooded mountain in the very South of Switzerland on the border to Italy, is nicknamed "Fossil Mountain" because of the fossils dating back 230-245 million years that have been found here. The area is one of Switzerland's 12 UNESCO World Heritage Sites, and is considered to be "the single best known record of marine life in the Triassic period". (See also this link: http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/1090 )

The trails from the West side on Lake Lugano across the mountain to Mendrisio on the East side are stages of various national and local routes. We picked the easier version (Stage 19 Via Gottardo), around the South of the mountain instead of across the top, with the intention of covering the first 400 altitude meters with a cable car, but despite nice weather forecast, the cold North wind was so strong by the time we got there that the cable car was not safe to operate that day.

So we covered the distance on foot in record time (50 minutes instead of 1 hour 10 mins -- best way to keep warm) to Serpiano where we got a fantastic view to Morcote on the San Salvatore promontory, then walked eastward to Meride, where there is a small fossil museum which we did not visit, but we had a local meal of polenta and pot roast (Gorgonzola for me) in a "Grotto" just outside the village. 

Instead of finishing the trail in Mendrisio, we walked through several mountain villages (Tremona, Besazio, Arzo) to the Italian border and caught a bus back. Saved us all that downhill walking, as the tour ended up longer than planned anyway. Total 14 km in 5 hours, but the strenuous uphill counts for much more!

On our way to Monte San Giorgio, one of Switzerland's 12 UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

In Brusino we hope the cable car is running, but unfortunately, the wind is too strong today. (And COLD!)

 

We had to walk up instead, but made it in record time! (50 minutes instead of 1:10)

At the hotel in Serpiano, we had our first of only a couple of views: This is Morcote and the San Salvatore Peninsula on Lake Lugano.

Morcote on Lake Lugano

The sunshine and palm trees might fool one into thinking it was warm, but the wind was freezing!

That arched window is a painting

Meride on the South Side of Monte San Giorgio.

 

Climate is ideal to grow grapes for wine.

Meride on the South side of Monte San Giorgio

 
We had lunch in the "Antico Grotto Fossati" (their specialty is Polenta), it's like eating at home but more expensive. Even if you order three of the same thing, they bring it all in larger bowls and you serve yourself.

After lunch, another quick walk through Meride.

After lunch, another quick walk through Meride.

Finally, a warm place along the church wall.

On the East side of the mountain there is another arm of Lake Lugano, and Monte Generoso on the right.

  

Admiring more wall paintings of windows in Tremona. They were all over the place, all by the same artist.

Many of the houses along the entire route had these cool paintings on their walls, same artist, Tacio Marti.

One of two churches in Besazio

The other church in Besazio

Last town we visited, Arzo right at the border to Italy.

Our Hike on the Via Gottardo, Stage 19, took about 5 hours for 14 km.

This is what it looked like in the North, blossoms and leaves and snow almost to valley bottom (approx. 600m above sea level) on April 19th.

In November 2016 we were on Monte San Salvatore, also a cold wind, with a view of Monte San Giorgio (Center of Photo)