September 14, 2016

In the Lower Engadine and Samnaun Valley

On Wednesday we had the best weather of the week, and the plan was a trip to the Lower Engadine (our vacation apartment was in the Upper Engadine) near the Austrian border for an easy hike between two very picturesque mountain villages, and then a bus ride through the Inn Ravine across the border, then back into a very remote valley at the end of which is the village of Samnaun where you can buy duty-free goods...

Our 9-km hike was super, the villages Vnà and Tschlin two of the cutest I've seen, and known in Switzerland as some of the quietest villages. The village of Tschlin has a public phone smack dab in the center of the village, and it is said the village is so quiet, you can hear the phone ring from all parts of the village. (Earlier this year Tourism Engadine ran a contest related to this phone... the video is quite cute and worth watching: www.dorftelefon.ch )

As for the Dutyfree village called Samnaun, we went to buy Amaretto and Bailey's, but other than that it lacked charm, just one shop after another selling cigarettes, watches, perfume, liquor and name-brand clothing.... and every second building was a restaurant. The trip there was a hoot, though: a steep winding road with 180degree tunnels, maximum vehicle length was 10 meters, or you couldn't get through the tunnel. One lane only. If the bus was in the tunnel when you got there, you'd have to back out....

Early morning in Upper Engadine (Zernez) on our way East to the Lower Engadine (in the sunny valley in the back).

Town of Lavin in Lower Engadine.
Castle in Ardez, Lower Engadine.

Castle Tarasp near Scuol, in the Lower Engadine.

Early morning light on the mountains has a special feel to it.
Interesting building in the town of Scuol.
 
A bus ride takes us up the mountain to the starting point of our hike, the little village of Vnà.

The little village of Vnà

In the little village of Vnà in Lower Engadine, Switzerland.

In the little village of Vnà in Lower Engadine, Switzerland.

In the little village of Vnà in Lower Engadine, Switzerland.

On the 9 km hike from Vnà to Tschlin.

On the 9 km hike from Vnà to Tschlin.

On the 9 km hike from Vnà to Tschlin.

On the 9 km hike from Vnà to Tschlin.

Arriving in Tschlin, the first place we had a look at was this old Late Gothic Church (San Plasch) built in 1515 at the East side of the Village.

Church of San Plasch in Tschlin, built in 1515 shortly before the Reformation.

East Side of Tschlin

Little village of Tschlin, Switzerland.





Most of the homes also have these fabulous arched doorways and carved door.

Love, love, love all the houses in the village of Tschlin.
Love, love, love all the houses in the village of Tschlin.

Love, love, love all the houses in the village of Tschlin.

Our Lunch at the Restaurant Macun (which means "Ibex" in Romansch) consisted of local specialties made with potatoes, bacon and parmesan. My meal, which was like gnocchis, was called Bizoccals.

More unique homes in Tschlin.

View down into the Lower Engadine Valley (that is the river Inn which flows from here to Austria).


From Tschlin we took a bus back down into the valley and followed the Inn River into Austria, then back into the remote Samnaun Valley. The town of Samnaun attracts tourists because of its dutyfree goods, and even though most of the buildings are built in the style of the houses in this area, somehow it just lacked charm.



On the way back home we pass the Tarasp Castle again, this time in evening light.

September 13, 2016

Into the Trupchun Valley to look for Deer

Deer sightings in British Columbia are pretty common (in fact, the animals often walk through people's yards) but here in Switzerland they are rarely seen, and so it is a treat in autumn to walk into the Swiss National Park in the hopes of spotting them on the higher altitude meadows. Here in the park they know they are safe and will chance coming out of the forest.

Quite near where we are staying is an entrance to the park, and not far into the valley is a special cliff wall where natural salts leak out onto the rock surface, and ibex are known to descend to lick the rock. So in the hopes of seeing deer and ibex, we hiked into the back of the Trupchun Valley and were rewarded with several deer sightings and lots of bellowing as this is mating season. (most of the deer were too far away to photograph properly).

Unfortunately, by the time we had to leave the valley to catch the last bus back (in this case, a car would have been an advantage), there was still too much sun on the rock wall where we hoped to see the ibex. So I will have to be content with another lovely hike and sightings of dozens of ibex sculptures and wall paintings all around the area, as this is the state animal for the Canton of Graubünden.

The bus runs every hour from S-chanf to the National Park... EXCEPT at 13.30, so we took the tourist "Train". (I swore I would never do that).

Heading across the River Inn (here it is called En), at S-chanf

At the start of our hike. Everywhere here on all the meadows, the Autumn Crocuses are blooming.

The rules in the Swiss National Park are very very strict. You may not leave the path at all, and you cannot even pick up rocks or sticks as everything has to remain as is.

The Swiss National Park is the oldest national park in the Alps and is rated a "strict nature reserve"

Heading into the Swiss National Park to the back of the Trupchun Valley

The beautiful Trupchun Valley in the Swiss National Park.

Every once in a while we spotted deer way far up on the hill. Zoomed photos are not very focused, but still...

Toward the back of the Trupchun Valley

Toward the back of the Trupchun Valley

More deer far up on the hillside.

This one hiding in the forest is a little boy.

Side Valley to the Trupchun Valley.

Always fascinated by the rock formations.

These stags that we saw just above the ridge were about 800m up the hill from the trail.

More deer above the tree line

More deer above the tree line. It is rare to see so many deer here in Switzerland (as opposed to the smaller roe deer).

On this cliff halfway up the valley, the ibex descend to lick the salt that sickers through the cracks. 

On this cliff halfway up the valley, the ibex descend to lick the salt that sickers through the cracks. It was still too warm at 5 pm and we didn't see any.

Last hope for a view of an ibex before heading back out the valley to catch the last bus home. 

Another 10-km hike: We started about halfway in (came up with the tourist train), then walked to the back of the valley, and then all the way out again to the parking lot. The bus ride back "home" was only another 15 minutes!
The Ibex is the state symbol for Canton Graubünden (Grisons / Grischun)