Massive Fields of Early Crocuses on the Hike from Schangnau to Trubschachen

(This post done on July 10, 2024)

Thursday April 16, 2015 – There is a place in Central Switzerland in the Emmental famous for its pastures of crocuses, millions of them, flowering for only a few days in spring (there are the largest number of purple crocuses here as anywhere else in Switzerland). We went there last year end of March but were just 2 weeks early (and ran into snow and had to turn back) so we tried it again this year, with success! 

It’s an experience you can’t really capture on photos, but I tried! You can get close up by car, but we made an 15-km hike out of it, starting in the south at the foot of the massif called the Hohgant, and first hiking up 500 meters to the summit of the Wachthubel (1400m). The climb took 1.5 hours for 3 km, but totally worth it for the views of the Bernese Alps, and we also found fields and fields of crocuses up here, away from the better known “public” ones futher North. 

Lots of photos and 5 km later (most of our hike was right on the border of the two cantons of Berne and Lucerne) we finally arrived at the better-known fields at Rämisgummen Alp, an entire hillside covered in crocuses (and flower lovers!). More photos and then lunch (Swiss Rösti) in a mountain restaurant nearby left us with another 6 km still to descend back into the valley. A total of 15 km in about 5 hours! Good thing the weather got cold again so I can rest those poor feet…..

Heading uphill from the village of Schangnau in Canton Bern. For most of the hike we had the Hohgant Massif behind us. This direction is also toward the Bernese Alps, which we saw more as we went higher up. 

15 kilometers and 5 hours of strict walking time. We spent about 8½ hours on the hike with all the stops to rest and photograph the crocuses, and lunch at the mountain restaurant. My feet were dying by the time we reached the train station in Trubschachen. 

Climbing higher toward Wachthubel, always with the Hohgant Massif in the background. 

Final stretch to Wachthubel summit

We ran into the first crocuses up here at the summit! 

We spent about 20 minutes up here enjoying the view. On the left is the summit of Mt.Schreckhorn, and on the right you can see some of the other Bernese Oberland Alps. 

This view tot the southwest gives us a clear look at Mt.Stockhorn and the Gantrisch chain of mountains in the Bernese Alps. 

We also saw a few wild daffodils up here. 

Summit of Mt.Wachthubel looking North over the Napfberger landscape and the Emmental region. 

Not a lot of sunshine this day, but nice views of the mountains just the same. 

Starting down the north side of Mt.Wachthubel the fields between here and Rämisgummen Alp were full of crocuses!

This crest is the Cantonn border between Bern and Luzern. The view is eastward to the Entlebuch in Canton Luzern. 

Getting up close to the flowers. 

Others are enjoying the flowers as much as we are!

So many purple crocuses here, more than elsewhere in Switzerland

The little crocuses up close!

Another look toward the Gantrisch Range of mountains. 

Urs taking a photo of me... We are walking along the canton border between cantons Bern and Luzern. Although we were mostly in Canton Bern, that massif in the background is the Schrattenflue, a very recognizable mountain in the Entlebuch region of Canton Luzern. 

These hills were covered in flowers, and it looked like a layer of snow! Not having reached the Rämisgummen Alp yet, there weren't any other people here. 

A spectacular view southward of three famous mountains of the Bernese Alps: Mt. Wetterhorn, Mt.Schrekhorn, and Mt.Finsteraarhorn (the latter being the highest peak in the Bernese Alps), nicely framed between the Schrattenflue range on the right and the Hohgant Massif of the left. 

A close-up view of the three distinctive peaks of the Bernese Oberland. (Mt. Wetterhorn, Mt.Schrekhorn, and Mt.Finsteraarhorn)

Now we've arrived at the Rämisgummen Alp, and there are many other people wandering around here. 

Rämisgummen Alp, and lots of people up here. 

Another look south as we head to Bergrestaurant Erika in Geissenhalden. 

Looking north down a side valley from Erika's Bergrestaurant. From here we actually continued along the crest on the left, and heading down from there. 

The restaurant is located at a very nice spot along the Geisshaldenegg crest, from where you really can see into the region of the Bernese Oberland. From here we still had to walk 90 minutes to Trubschachen. 

The view from Geisshaldenegg

Yummy Rösti potatoes with fried egg

Heading down the mountain after lunch, here are some other early spring flowers, besides the crocuses!

There aren't a lot of photos of the final stretch down the mountain, as it was mostly through forested area. But once in a while you come across some magnificent Emmental-style buildings. 

Crossing the Ilfis River for the last stretch to the Kambly Cookie factory and the train station at Trubschachen, after being on the trail for over eight hours!

What our 15-km hike looks like on Google Satelling Maps, starting in Schangnau and ending in Trubschachen. West of this range is the Emmental region of Canton Bern, and East is the Entlebuch region of Canton Luzern. 

Location of Rämisgummen Alp in Switzerland. 

The Three Castles of Bellinzona

(This post created and published on February 25, 2025)

Saturday April 11, 2015 – When we travel South of the Gotthard Tunnel to Lugano or Locarno (or Milano) we always pass through Bellinzona, where you get a glimpse of the great stone castles, since 2000 a Unesco World Heritage Site. In fact, on the way to Lugano the train actually passes UNDER one of the castles. So I always wanted to go see the three castles of Bellinzona, and we decided to do this on this Saturday. 

The largest castle, Castel Grande, is located in the old town of Bellinzona, and easy to reach, but the nicest of the three (Montebello) is a little higher on the hillside. The smallest (Sasso Corbaro) is a one-hour walk uphill. So we started with the top one, walking the one hour up the steep hillside via cobblestone steps through the small town of Artore. From there we got a great view of the other two massive castles, with their connecting fortified walls which encompass a large part of the old town Bellinzona. We walked down to Montebello, and then to Castelgrande, about 6 km in all. Very impressive. The sense of “being there”, a long long time ago. 

The castles have dominated this strategic location since the Roman Times, but especially after the 4th century when the fortresses were built to protect Northern Italy from invading Allemanic tribes. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Three_Castles_of_Bellinzona

As seen from Castel Grande at the end of our hike, this is the view down to the old part of the city of Bellinzona, and the approximate route we hiked: First to the yellow church in Artore, then to Castello di Sasso Corbaro at the top of the hill, then down to Montebello and into the town to the large church Chiesa Collegiata dei SS. Pietro e Stefano, and then up to Castel Grande, which is on a  hill in the middle of Bellinzona. 

From the Bellinzona train station it is about 30 minutes to reach Artore, and from there another 20 minutes to the first of the three castles we want to visit: Castello di Sasso Corbaro. We started at 11:35

All kinds of cute houses in this part of Switzerland. 

Heading up the stone steps to the yellow church in Artore, which we always see from the train station in Bellinzona. 

Chiesa di San Sebastiano in Artore above Bellinzona. 

Taking a break at the walls around the church in Artore, with a view down to Bellinzona and the mountains at the junction with the Mesocco Valley. We got here at noon, so it took us 25 minutes to walk up to here. 

View down to the Ticino River and the Riviera Valley. 

Down below us we can see the other two Bellinzona castles: Montebello on the left, and Castel Grande on the right. 

After a 15-minute break enjoying the views from the San Sebastiano church in Artore, we continued on our hike at 12:15. 

It's not a very long or difficult walk to the three castles in Bellinzona. Strictly speaking, two hours and 6 kilometers. But we took our time admiring the castles and views, and got back to the train station at about 3:45 p.m. So we spent about four hours here, first walking up the mountain to Castello di Sasso Corbaro, then down to Castello di Montebello, and then via old-town Bellinzona to Castel Grande, before returning to the train station. 

Up ahead of us (past several vineyards) we can see Castello di Sasso Corbaro, where we are now headed. 

First leaves and blossoms this spring! It's nice to see the countryside turn green again. 

Heading up more stone steps to the vehicle road. 

This lovely bird is called a Eurasian Jay. (It makes a lot of noise, though!)

Approaching Sasso Corbaro Castle from the east side. The weird inflated white plastic balloon on the right side is part of a current art exhibition at the castle. We got here at 12:35, exactly 20 minutes from Artore. 

We had a look inside the castle courtyard, but didn't go into the castle itself, as you have to pay entrance fee, and we didn't want to see the art exhibition. 

From the castle walls, a bit of a different view of the other two castles: Castel Grande on the left, and Montebello slightly hidden at the bottom right. The old part of Bellinzona city is in the gorge below Castel Grande. 

And this beautiful view is over the Magadino Basin. You can just make out Lago Maggiore in the back. 

Heading down from the Sasso Corbaro Castle now to go to Montebello. It's now 1 p.m. which means we spent about 20-25 minutes here. 

As we head back down the mountain, we can see the church in Artore, where we took a break earlier. 

Close-up view of San Sebastiano in Artore. 

And this is the first really good look at the fabulous Montebello Castle.

What a magnificent structure

Heading into the castle compound. It took us about 20 minutes to walk down to here. 

Inside the castle compound. There is an entry fee into the buildings themselves, which is some sort of museum, but we did not go inside. 

It WAS possible to walk up onto the ramparts on the castle walls, so we had a good look around there. Of particular interest is the way the main gate (drawbridge) is operated by the counterweights on the wooden frame. 

On the ramparts of the Montebello Castle. 

Past the fortified walls of the Montebello Castle, we can see Castel Grande on the other side of old town Bellinzona. 

We found a stone table tucked into the castle wall: A good place for a late lunch break at 13:45!

A view of Castel Grande and the roofs of Old Town Bellinzona viewed from between the crenelations of the castle walls. 

A closer look at Castel Grande where we are headed next. 

Enjoying the mild spring weather on the grounds of the Montebello Castle. We spent about 45 minutes here on the castle grounds. 

Above us is the Sasso Corbaro Castle, where we descended from. 

Shortly after 2 p.m. we headed down from Montebello into old-town Bellinzona. 

The train line goes through a tunnel under the castle. The palm trees give this region a Mediterranean flair. The castle walls go all the way down into the town and over to the other castle.

Descending into Old Town Bellinzona. The large church here is called Chiesa Collegiata dei SS. Pietro e Stefano. According to Wikipedia (translated), it is a Renaissance building with Baroque details. The building...houses numerous works of art dating back to a period between the 15th and 19th centuries. Among these there are the large stoup (holy water basin) known as Fontana Trivulzio, dating back to 1465, and an organ whose original nucleus dates back to 1588.   

Through an alleyway we reach the main pedestrian street within Bellinzona, with Castel Grande looming overhead. 

Main street in front of the Collegiate Church of Saints Peter and Stephen. 

In the streets of Old Town Bellinzona. 

We then had a look into the courtyard of the Palazzo Civico (Town Hall), it was quite impressive with its many arches. This is not a very old building, built between 1924 and 1926, and inaugurated in 1929.

And now we are headed to the defense walls of the Castel Grande, approaching from the West.  

The gateway entrance to the Castel Grande via the battlements. 

From here we can see both the Castello di Montebello and the San Sebastiano church in Artore. 

The tower in the center belongs to the Town Hall (Palazzo Civico), and the view is toward the Morobbia Valley. 

Another view of the Collegiate Church with Montebello behind it. 

Heading up the long staircase onto the Castle grounds. 

Kids playing..... As far as the three castles go, Montebello was definitely the most interesting. 

Around the grounds of Castelgrande

View north across Bellinzona toward the junction of two valleys: Riviera Valley on the left leads northwards toward Biasca and then the Gotthard Masif, and on the right is the Mesocco Valley, which leads first to the west, then the north to the San Bernardino Pass. 

We spent about an hour here on the grounds of the castle enjoying some sunshine (along with many other people) before heading back to the train station. 

Photo on the grounds of Castelgrande Castle, with both Montebello and Sasso Carbaro in the background. 

Panorama view of Old Town Bellinzona and Castello di Montebello (you can see the battlement walls come all the way down into the city) and Castello di Sasso Corbaro atop the small hill. 

At 15:40 we were back down in the city and on our way to the train station. 

What our little round tour walk looks like on Google Satellite Maps.