Valley Bottom Walk in Wine Country from Trimmis to Landquart

Wednesday, December 10, 2025 -- Once again we are having a warm December compared to the cold and snow we had mid-November. The snow has melted now to quite high elevations, and some of the wider valley bottoms are also snow-free. 

We do enjoy walking in the snow-free lower elevations in winter, and because the eastern part of Switzerland was having the best and warmest weather, we headed once again toward Chur in the Rhine Valley. We have hiked here often, but since I like to "join" paths which we have walked before, there was a good stretch between the villages of Trimmis and Landquart in the "Heidiland" Wine Country which we hadn't covered yet. Plus there was a spectacular castle in the midst of the wide open plain near Landquart which we had never even noticed on all the many trips we take here by train, which we really wanted to see, so we mapped out a path that would take us by there.

One difficulty of this region is the late shadow on the east side of the mountains and the early shadow from the western mountains, so timing was crucial. As it turned out, we did have a couple of short stretches in the shade at the start (which was at 11:00), and also the final 20 minutes before reaching the train station in Landquart at 3:30 p.m. But it was warm and we had lots of sunshine, and ended up with a 13+ kilometer hike (3½ hours) along a variety of paths, although quite a bit was on paved roads. (Meadow paths are often muddy at this time of year, so paved roads aren't always bad...). 

From previous experience, we know that the city of Chur (the oldest city in Switzerland) lies in the shadow of the eastern mountains for quite a long time in December, so we timed our trip to reach here at about 10:45, a two-hour trip from home. 

From Chur it is a 10-minute bus ride to Trimmis, where we are going to start our hike. Across the Rhine Valley to the west, at the foot of the Calanda range, are two castle ruins, which we hiked to in January 2023. The leftmost ruins are called Burg Haldenstein, and the one on the right, Burg Lichtentein, is also known locally as the "Cat Fortress" (Katzenburg).  

As the bus heads to our starting point of Trimmis village, we get a look over the landscape where we will be walking, northwards in the direction of those mountains (Mt. Vilan on the right).

We started at the bus stop (shortly after 11 a.m.) where we ended the February 2024 hike, and walked along the main road for 10 minutes when we reached the vineyards on the outskirts of town. 

We planned this hike to start in Trimmis (because we ended a hike there in February 2024) and to walk all the way to Landquart to join up to the end of a hike we did in October 2020. We had a window of only about four hours to avoid shadow from the mountains from both sides of the Rhine Valley here. Starting at shortly after 11 a.m., we got to the train station in Landquart at about 3:30 p.m., and had to do the final 20 minutes in the shadow of the western mountains after all. 

The path traverses several of the many vineyards here. 

A large placard informs us that Trimmis is a winegrowing village, first documented for production of wine in the 9th Century. Trimmis has a microclimate ideal for grapes to thrive. The warm climate is very much influenced by strong Föhn winds in this part of the Rhine Valley. The soil, primarily lime-rich shale, is ideal for the predominant Pinot Gris.

Our trail heads to the right into the shadow of the eastern mountains and above that forested section. First the trail passes a large old farmstead, and at this point we decided we would follow the road through the meadow (from the farmstead) in the sunshine instead of continuing through the shade. 

The official trail passes by the farmstead and then along the edge of the forest in the shadow of the mountain. Our plan was to head through the farmstead and back into the sunshine to the left. 

The farm is called "Gut Molinära" (Molinära Manor), first mentioned in 1275. The Coat of arms carved into the wall above the main door also indicates a date of 1557, which more than likely is the year the house was built!

Further on we decided to take a short-cut via meadows and vineyards. In summer, we would probably not do this. 

Shortcut through the vineyards between Trimmis and Zizers. 

This view is southward toward Trimmis where we started our hike. Further in the back, at the junction of the two valleys, is the city of Chur. 

We then landed on a themed trail called "Zizers Nature Walk" which we followed into the town of Zizers. 

Looking behind us at the industry in Obervaz, and the quarry, as we head up the hill somewhat. 

This is a large orchard of walnut trees. Each tree has a number. There is a reason for this. 

The sign on the tree explains why the trees are numbered: The trees have been auctioned off to private citizens who have the rights to the nuts from their own trees. So there is a warning that if you take any of the nuts, it is considered stealing. 

Just after noon and an hour after starting on our hike, we found a very nice bench in the sunshine to eat our sandwiches. 

The mountains to the east. 

Mountains to the east. On the other side is the Schrankenbach Valley, which we visited in October 2020. We hope to one day hike over those mountains, starting in the Schrankebach Valley and coming down right about here. 

Entering the town of Zizers. The first documented mention of "Zizers" dates back to 955 AD. Emperor Otto I gifted the "Zizers estate" to the struggling episcopal church of Chur.

At the cemetery in Zizers (by the Reformed church). At this location, some very important archeological excavations took place in 2003, unearthing a 10th-Century residence of King Otto the First. 

Reformed church in Zizers. This is the first of two churches we came to. It was originally a Catholic church dedicated to St.Andreas, first mentioned in 1340. It was passed on to the Reformed Christian Community in 1644 (and the other, larger one, remained Catholic).  

Inside of the Reformed Church in Zizers. Many of these buildings were originally Catholic churches, but when the Reformation came to Switzerland in the 16th Century, the buildings were "redocorated" by covering up the frescoes (considered idol worship) and by using plain wood decor, which is usually quite attractive. In this case, the main door was quite beautiful. 

From the site of the church we could see the cupola of the Zizers Castle, which we went to look at after visiting the Reformed Church. 

The Zizers Castle was built between 1670 and 1688 by the local prominent Von Salis family. It was then purchased by the Catholic Church in Chur in 1899, which set up an "old age" facility here. The last Empress of Austria moved in in 1962. 

Details of the castle grounds.

The castle was used as a care-facility during the 20th Century until 2016, and since then has been renovated into luxury apartments, of which a couple are still for sale for over 2 million francs. (Most already sold). 

We then walked down the western part of the city to have a closer look at the Fridau Fortress Ruins. It was built in 1237-1251 by Bishop Volkhart of Chur as the basic judicial seat. Later it was used as a prison, and then was massively damaged in the town fire of 1897. It is privately-owned and is currently being renovated. We tried to access the tower, but the red door was locked. 

Heading back to the main road from the Fridau Fortress Tower. 

Back toward the Zizers Castle. 

Now heading further along the main road toward the second and larger church, St.Peter and St.Paul (which was used simultaneously by the Catholics and Protestants for 30 years before the other church, St.Andreas, was transferred to the Reformed Christian Community in 1644.)

Beautiful Baroque Interior of the St.Peter and St.Paul parish church.

Beautiful interior of the Baroque church.

The present Catholic church was first mentioned in 1410. Beneath it lie remains of an earlier church dating from around the 11th century. The current Baroque church was consecrated to Saints Peter and Paul in 1696.

We then had to walk along the main paved road for two kilometers as we headed back toward the foot of the eastern mountain range. We passed through another town called Igis, but didn't take a detour into the main part of town. The view is up the Rhine Valley toward the Alpstein Massif, past a peak called Regitzer Spitz.

The main goal of this day's hike was to get a close look at this beautiful castle called Marschlins Castle. We deliberately chose to walk along the forest trail at the foot of the eastern mountains, to get a look a the castle from above.  

Marschlins Castle in Igis, Switzerland. Built in the 13th Century, it is a Swiss Heritage Site of National importance. It is privately-owned. 

As we reach the forest trail, we get this really nice look across the wide open Igis pastures. (Later, we walked down to the castle and headed toward the city of Landquart on the left, to get the train back home.)

Close-up look at the city of Landquart where we ended our 13-km walk. From here we also get the first peek at the Churfirsten mountains in the Seez Valley on the left. The larger peak on the right is called Mt.Alvier, a mountain we are still planning to walk up to one day. 

Along the forest trail, we actually didn't get a real good look at the castle as there were too many trees in the way. But once out of the forest, we found this great bench in the sunshine where we sat for a while (2:30 p.m.), before continuing on to Landquart. 

View of the castle grounds from the little bench. It's not the best view, but later, we walked down along the road on the left and got a really good up-close look. From here we can see that this used to be a moated castle (13th Century), but apparently the moat was drained as early as the 16th century.

And this view is down the Rhine Valley, (on the east side of Mt. Alvier) and the lower mountain called Fläscherberg, to the Alpstein Massif. The strip of trees on this photo is where the canal of the Landquart River passes out of the Prättigau to enter the Rhine River at Landquart. We walked along this canal when we walked out of the Schrankenbach Valley on that October 2020 hike. (It was a long, boring section!). The white arch is a bridge over the river which we also crossed at that time. 

Now a superb close-up look at the castle as we descend from our spot on the bench. 

Four different views of the Marschlins Castle as we walked arount the perimeter. The castle is privately-owned, but you can still walk around it. 

A view behined us to the castle as we now head toward Landquart. 

Last stretch into Landquart at 3 p.m. Shortly afterwards the whole valley was cast in shadow, and the final 2 kilometers or so to the train station in Landquart were done in the shadow, which was OK as it was along the main road and not very interesting. We caught the 15:39 "slow" (2¼ hours) connection back home. (A train 40 minutes later would be less than two hours, but we didn't want to spend that time in the city).  

I picked this hike between Trimmis and Landquart to connect with other hikes we had ended in both of those places. It turned out to be a 13½-kilometer walk (about 3½ hours). 

Location of Landquart within Switzerland. 

This is a view down onto the region we walked this day, as seen from the ridge higher up on our October 2020 hike. 

St.Nicholas Parade: Popular Local Tradition of Central Switzerland

Friday December 5th, 2025 -- In several places in Central Switzerland, St.Nicholas Day is celebrated with a traditional parade called "Klausjagen" on the eve of St.Nicholas (Dec.6th) which includes cracking of bullwhips, brass instruments playing a repetitive 3-note tune, hundreds of locals swinging large cow-bells on their thighs in a very loud and consistent primordial rhythm, and most importantly, the display of the bishop-hat-shaped headdresses lighted by real candles to showcase the intricate, hand-made designs (religious in nature) that glow like stained-glass windows. It is not sure where this tradition has its origins, but is most likely over 1000 years old, based on pagan rituals of driving out evil spirits of darkness. 

The most famous of these parades is in the town of Küssnacht on Lake Lucerne, which now attracts over 30,000 people every year. (There are smaller and more familiar such parades in several towns all around Lake Luzern and some other places in Central Switzerland, but the "Pièce(s) de Resistance" (so to speak) definitely are the Bishops Hats (Iffelen), over 200 of them carried through the town at night, where the town lights are turned off to enhance the full effect of this beautiful display). The parade lasts 2½ hours with several breaks, as the head-dresses are heavy and so are the bells. (A deafening procession of over 1000 men, residents of the village only). When the parade is done at 10:30 p.m., the participants spend all night in local pubs until early morning when they head home, ringing their bells once again. 

Additionally, the town of Küssnacht has organized a children's parade at 2 p.m. in the afternoon, most ringing the bells, several cracking whips (not easy to get that cracking sound and requires lots of practice) and the smallest ones proudly wearing the headpieces they crafted in school. Of course St.Nicholas (Samichlaus) joins the parade, accompanied by his assistants called Schmutzli, all in black.

As I had been spending the week in my Aunt's former house in the same village, I was able to attend both events, and even though those head pieces are magnificent, I have to admit I enjoyed the children's parade more, as 1) there were fewer spectators, and 2) because it took place in daylight, you could enjoy the participants so much more....

PART I: The Children's Parade: Started at 2:15 p.m. and I enjoyed this thoroughly, as it was fun to watch the kids participating, especially the talented bullwhip crackers!

VIDEO:

Earlier in the morning, the kids at the nearby school did a test run in preparation for the parade, and passed right below my house!

Many businesses have displays of the intricate headdresses in their show windows! (These are very small ones). 

Spectators and family members are already waiting on the main road in the old part of town, where the children will take their first break. 

The parade starts at the upper part of the village (Oberdorf) with the children who will wield their bullwhips (Geisselchlöpfer), having practiced all month of November during breaks in the school day!

VIDEO:

Display of cracking the bullwhip. I recognized some of the children who passed by my house earlier in the morning. I was especially impressed by the strong little girl participating in an exercise dominated by the village boys!

After the bullwhips came the smaller children with the "Bishop Hats" (small and simple version of what is displayed at night in the dark!)

VIDEO:

The little kids proudly displaying the Bishop Hats they crafted in school!

Then comes the "Samichlaus", Switzerland's version of Santa Claus, with his helpers called the "Schmutzli", who hand out treats to the children among the spectators. (Their faces are totally blackened—once upon a time with coal—which I find rather intimidating, and not the pleasant experience that St.Nicholas should represent!)

VIDEO:

Arrival of Samichlaus

Now most fascinating of all come the bell ringers (Trychler). First come the larger boys in excellent formation with excellent rhythm. 

Behind the big boys are the smaller children, and their rhythm wasn't so great! 

Even some little ones joined the parade!

VIDEO:

The repetitive sound of the bells is loud and primordial and vibrates the air!

The kids had a break and then continued on the main road toward the train station. I ran some errands and then found another spot to watch them all pass again. Here are the Bullwhips.... I am amazed that no one in the crowd got in the way of the whips!

VIDEO:

Several of the participants showed off with Bullwhip Solos!

The little children are looking for their family members in the crowd!

Samichlaus and his helpers. 

And finally, the long procession of bells. Usually I don't like loud noises, but this didn't bother me at all. 

VIDEO:

Final line of bell-ringers pass on the main road. 

You could tell that the smaller kids at the back were getting tired!

PART II: Main Parade: With over 1500 participants, only men and locals allowed. 

The event starts at 8:15 p.m. after a loud cannon shot, and then all the lights in the main part of town near the lake get turned off. The display of fantastic headdresses (Iffele) was superb, but because it was so dark, you could not see the bullwhips nor the over 1000 bellringers walking past. You only heard the noise. My cameras were not good enough for videos in this light, so Internet videos show it better. See the main website at: https://www.klausjagen.ch/

As I headed down to the lake at 8:20 p.m. to wait for the parade to arrive, I spotted this large boat docked at the lakeside, probably a special outing for spectators to the parade. 

Some of the first arrivals of the Iffele headdresses onto the Seeplatz (lakeside square). 

Beautiful headdresses. 

I snuck in a flash photo when the bell-ringers passed, as my camera could not take any proper photos in this light. 

Screenshot from the long video (see below) I took as the participants marched down the main road in town. 

Screenshot from the long video (see below) I took as the participants marched down the main road in town. This is one of the largest and most fabulous of the headdresses which appears every year in the parade.  

Screenshot from the long video (see below) I took as the participants marched down the main road in town. This is one of the largest and most fabulous of the headdresses which appears every year in the parade.  

VIDEO:

This is a 3-minute video (my video, uploated to YouTube) of the procession of Iffelen (Bishop-hat shaped headdresses) carried by the local men, about 200 in all. There are St.Nicholas processions in many parts of Central Switzerland, but these headdresses are quite unique to the Küssnacht procession. 

PART III: Addendum

Here are a few photos which we took on previous visits of the Küssnacht Klausjagen parade, in 2014 and 2019. At a couple of points along the way, the men carrying the headdresses set them down to take a break, and you can view them up close.

Display of Iffelen Headdresses Klausjagen Parade 2019

Display of Iffelen Headdresses Klausjagen Parade 2013

Display of Iffelen Headdresses Klausjagen Parade 2013

Display of Iffelen Headdresses Klausjagen Parade 2013

Display of Iffelen Headdresses Klausjagen Parade 2013

Display of Iffelen Headdresses Klausjagen Parade 2013