Hike above the Fog on Trail no.5: "Jura Crest Trail" in Western Switzerland

Sunday November 13, 2022 -- We hadn't been to the Jura mountains in Western Switzerland for a long time, but hadn't reckoned with fog in the lowlands to 1000 meters! On the way we had to change plans quickly, because what we originally came for -- the new CHF 600K "rope" bridge recently opened -- was just at the fog level.

So starting at Grenchenberg with a really thick sea of fog just below us, we walked for about three hours along the Jura Crest, mostly on Trail no.5 (aptly named "Jura Crest Trail") and had sunshine and the view of the alpine peaks above the lake of fog. For the final section of the hike, we could have taken the cable-car down from Mt. Weissenstein, but it would have meant 45 additional minutes uphill on a wide road (the hardest type of hiking for me) and we could see many people heading that way, as this is a popular mountain for Sunday hikers from the cities of Western Switzerland. So we chose rather to descend the mountain for 45 minutes through the foggy forest, hoping we'd get below the fog eventually, which was unfortunately not the case.

In all, it was an almost 4-hour hike, 12.5 kilometers. The descent was a bit tough in the legs, and it was unfortunate that we saw nothing of the beautiful Aare River and valley below, but the walk along the ridge with the steep drop to the east (these types of mountains are called "Flue") was pretty good. I found out later that we had walked around the highest mountain in Canton Solothurn, the Hasenmatt, instead of over it. Had I known it was the highest, I might have made the extra effort, but we figured the view of the fog wasn't any different from there than from any other section of the trail!

(As a side-note, the last time we were in this area was also in the fall, in 2019, and not only did we have fog and no view into the valley, we also had a strong cold wind! Those photos are HERE)

Starting at the final bus stop at the restaurant in Untergrenchenberg, this is a view to Mt. Chasseral to the South, where we had started on a hike in October 2019, also with fog in the valley at the time. (Photos HERE)

The hike we did was mostly along Trail no.5 "Jura Crest Trail", with a detour via "Wandflue", a long cliff section with a narrow trail near the edge. Direction Weissenstein

This is the view we had all day (this in particular are the Bernese Alps). The fog was thick and very high (up to at least 1000m)

Instead of continuing to the cablecar station at Weissenstein, we walked the 45 minutes through the fog down the mountain (530m) to the train station at Oberdorf. Other deviations from Trail no.5 were the more interesting section along the Wandflue at Obergrenchenberg, and we walked around Hasenmatt instead of over it. 

This is the detour we took along Wandflue (the cliff on the left). It was a narrow, although popular trail near the cliff edge. Up ahead are Stallflue and Hasenmatt peaks. The trail crosses both peaks, but we walked around Hasenmatt on its West side. This is apparently the tallest peak in Canton Solothurn

The fog is very high. The farm below, a mountain restaurant called Bettlachberg, is at 1072 meters, so the weather forecast of fog up to 1000m is pretty accurate. 

Fog from the Aar Valley climbing up to 1100 m! Had we gone with our original plan, we would have been in the fog the whole time. 

The popular narrow trail along Wandflue was a good choice, with constant view of the sea of fog and the entire stretch of the Alps to the south

Here is where we stopped for our picnic lunch

A look back at the cliffs called Wandflue. The "unofficial" trail started at the arrow, and was often pretty close to the edge. The official "Trail no.5" is on the right. This is where we had our picnic lunch. 

This 2-km stretch was on the cliff side of an old stone wall, built ages ago to prevent livestock from falling over the cliff

The next ca. 2 km were through the forest on the left, to the summit of Stallflue, dead ahead. We weren't on the cliff side this time. 

The full view of the Alps, from Mt.Säntis on the far left, to the Gantrisch Mountains on the right. The Bernese Alps in the center. 

Our view to the West. This upper area had no fog! 

Now we are on the Stallflue summit, looking back at both sets of cliffs that we walked along. The fog is staying at about 1000m below. 

The sea of fog has its charm, but I'd rather see what is in the valley!

Those are our favourite Alps, the Uri and Glarus Alps toward Eastern Switzerland!

After descending from Stallflue, the next peak along the trail is the Hasenmatt, tallest mountain in Canton Switzerland. We didn't feel like climbing over it, as there was an alterative road to the West, which we took. We figured the view was about the same as what we had already seen till then....

At the Althüsli Restaurant, the cows were also enjoying the sunshine and a good scratch. 

Althüsli mountain restaurant. It is actually nice that there are so many such places to stop for a drink along the way, which we sometimes do. But not today. 

Up ahead is Mt. Weissenstein, and the cable-car station top right. I could see right away that it was an ascent I wasn't going to like. And even from here we could see the road was full of other hikers. This is when we decided we would probably walk down the mountain. 

To the northeast the fog is also sitting in the Jura lowlands. 

Just a sample of the many forest sections we walked along the ridge. As long as the sun shines, it is a pleasant walk. 

From here it would be another 40 minutes always slightly uphill along this kind of road. We decided to descend through the forest here, hoping to soon get BELOW the fog, which wasn't the case. 

For about 15 minutes we still had sunshine before hitting fog level. 

Hitting the fog at about 1050m, so it didn't recede all day. 

Walking through the fog wasn't too bad, it wasn't too wet!

You can really see the spider webs in the fog!

Except for the steep downhill sections, it was kind of an interesting walk. We were surprised at the number of other people also descending here. 

In all we spent 35 minutes walking in the fog, but never got "beneath" it by the time we got to the train station. (Urs figured it was a 200m-thick blanket, but we descended 400m through the fog). 

This is what our hike looks like on Google satellite maps

Location of the Solothurn Jura in Switzerland. 

A few Highlights of Zurich

Monday November 7, 2022 -- I had an errand to run in Zurich this day, and since it was a warm and balmy day, I combined this with a 5-km walk along the eastern shore of the lake, starting at the "Zurich Horn" (near to where I had the appointment) and walking to the Hauptbahnhof. 

A special feature at the "Horn" is one of Jean Tinguely's famous moving metal sculptures, this one called Heureka. Tinguely, born in Fribourg in 1925, is known for his "meta-physical" sculptures which he claims are allegories for the rampant consumerism in our industrial society. The Heureka sculpture was the first of his public works created for the Swiss National Exhibition in 1964. The sculpture is operated three times a day in summer only, so I did not see it in motion, unfortunately. This is one of our goals, we just never get around to going there in summer!

The day was almost too warm for a jacket, and the air was clear so I got to see much of the mountains to the South. It took me about 90 minutes to walk back to the main train station while admiring many of the lovely buildings (much in sandstone) along the way.

Across from the train station in Zurich is the Landesmuseum (State Museum). We have not yet visited this. (We are not really museum people)

At the park called Zurich Horn on the east side of the lake is the magnificent sculpture called "Heureka", the first public sculpture created by Jean Tinguely, for the Swiss National Expo in 1964

"Heureka" by the Swiss sculptor Jean Tinguely at Zurich Horn

A nice view to the south down Lake Zurich, to the Glarus Alps

Walking north along the promenade toward the city

Across the lake is the reformed church in Enge (Zurich), nicknamed the "Sacré Coeur of Zurich", and considered the most important Neo-Renaissance church in Switzerland. I visited this back in 2014, maybe it would be time for another visit. 

The beautiful Opera House in Stadelhofen at the north end of the lake

Details on the Opera House

Crossing the Limmat River where it enters the lake. Those buildings are on the west side of the river. (Later I visited the inside of the St.Peter church, the one with the large clock-face, the largest in Europe)

A close-up look at the twin towers of Zurich's most famous landmark: Grossmünster Church (also visited on a previous occasion many years ago). 

A look back at the opera house and the promenade as I cross the bridge over the Limmat River

Also enjoying the sunshine

Many of the buildings between the lake and the train station are such fancy sandstone constructions. 

A look across the Limmat River to the Grossmünster Church

Münster Bridge across the Limmat River toward the old part of Zurich. The two churches are the Grossmünster on the left, and the Wasserkirche ("Water Church") on the right. 

Looking down the river now toward the lake, you can certainly see the mountains well on a clear day!

And I even was able to make out my favourite mountain "Mount Schärhorn" far South near the Klausen Pass in Canton Uri!

I took a less-frequented road through the Lindenhof district of the old town and came upon this church here.... (St.Peter's, it has the largest clock-face in Europe, 8.7 meters)

The church is called St.Peter's and apparently has the largest clock face in Europe (8.7 meters!)

Details of the inside of St. Peter's Church. This is the oldest parish church in Zurich, with the original 9th-Century foundation. 

I also passed this great-looking building, a restaurant apparently frequented by some important people in past centuries!

Details painted on the outside of the restaurant called "Zur Grossen Reblaube" ("To the Large Grapevine"). This building has been here since 1357, under various names!!! The current restaurant has had this name since 1637! (Renovated 1925)

Passing through the Lindenhof Park across from the church, this is a pretty neat outdoor terrace!

A roof-top terrace, but it looks like it belongs to the neighbour!

The Urania Observatory, opened in 1907, was the first building in Zurich to be built out of concrete

On the way home by train along the west side of Lake Zurich, another great view of the Glarus Alps.

A few days later, I had to go back to Zurich for another appointment, and on the way to the University by tram, I saw this building which I stopped by on the way back to have a look at. It is the Catholic Church called Liebfrauenkirche (Church of our Dear Lady), and it is fairly young as far as such religious structures go, built in the 1890's because the number of Roman Catholics in Zurich had increased so much that a second church was necessary. It is considered the "most important replica of an early Christian basilica on Swiss soil".