October 7, 2020

Hike from Losone to the red cliffs of Barbescio, ending in Ascona

Wednesday October 7, 2020 -- This day we had to return to the Ticino area South of the Alps because the weather in the North was miserable. Unfortunately we had to give up both Plans A and B (this doesn't happen often); firstly because Plan A (Blenio Valley) was pretty far North and the bad weather clouds were pushing over the mountains, and we had to scrap Plan B (Cable car to Cardada above Locarno) because all methods to get up there were simply crawling with "tourists" (apparently it is still a vacation week, and all families with kids are down here on holiday, instead of somewhere at a beach on the Italian coasts....).

We basically hopped on the next bus to a "suburb" of Locarno called Losone, and walked the forests above Ascona, to some red bluffs called Barbescio, and then via another typical Ticino village (Arcegno) and Monte Verità down to Ascona. Ascona is a popular lakeside town (Lago Maggiore) with Mediterranean flair, and of course there were lots of people there. Highlight for Urs was purchasing his gelato, and mine was admiring the fabulous artwork inside two of the city's churches, in particular of Ascona's own Giovanni Serodine, born 1594 to a family of stuccoists, who studied Caravaggio's painting style in Rome, and left behind only 15 paintings, as he died early in 1630. 

As much as I enjoyed the outing, it does seem a far way to come for a 3-hour walk in the forest, but at least we had sunshine...

Our excursion started in Losone, with a visit to the local parish church, of course: Chiesa san Lorenzo, original 1243, many changes, most recent 1719 Baroque style. The inside had nothing of particular interest to photograph

Wandering through the courtyards of old town Losone

This was a relatively short and easy hike, mostly through forests (trails were very wet from recent excessive rains), starting in Losone, then heading to the Bluffs of Barbescio, then via Arcegno and Monte Verità to Ascona on the lake.

A little pond in the middle of the forest

Hiking through the chestnut forests

Climbing around the bluffs of Barbescio, from were we saw into the entrance of the Maggia Valley and across Locarno to Lago Maggiore

Thick chestnut forests

View North to the villages of Pedemonte (Versco below) and into the Maggia Valley

View East across Locarno to Lago Maggiore

Heading around the bluffs we come to another pretty pond

Our welcome committee in Arcegno

Discovering the village of Arcegno

Main square with town fountain in Arcegno

Main square with town fountain in Arcegno

Main square with town fountain in Arcegno

Chiesa di Sant'Antonio Abate in Arcegno (mid 14th century, totally renovated and artwork repainted in 1919)

I loved this little church, lots of very nice artwork all restored in 1919

Heading down the road toward Monte Verità, we had a coffee break at this little chapel called Oratorio Madonna delle Valle (17th Century)

It turned out that Monte Verità is basically a hotel on a hill above Ascona. Not even such great views up here.

Interesting up here at Monte Verità is the Japanese Tea House and a real tea plantation

Heading down the many stairs to the city of Ascona

Heading down the many stairs to the city of Ascona

A view across to city of Ascona

Close-up view of Ascona

The first thing I did when we got into the town was visit the parish church of Santi Pietro e Paolo, documented 1264, stucco work and paintings from early 1600

I adore fresco work

The beautiful woodwork on the pulpit is by Ascona's own Giovanni Serodine

Across from the church is a building called "Casa Serodine", the Serodine family home, built in 1620 and stuccoed by the older Serodine brother

Walking along the waterfront promenade in Ascona

There is lots of débris in the lake due to recent torrential downpours (many of the mountain trails are now also no longer passable)

Urs and his gelato

This is the Collegio Papio, now a Catholic highschool, but built 1585 next to the Santa Maria della Misericordia Church (early 1400's) as a school for priests

A glimpse inside Santa Maria della Misericordia Church (early 1400's), fantastically painted walls, but unfortunately no lighting inside the church, so difficult to admire

Our 10 km hike as mapped on Google Earth maps




October 4, 2020

Section 2 of the Jura Crest Trail: From Staffelegg to Brugg

Sunday October 4, 2020 -- A cold front has hit, with lots of rain and snow in many parts of the country (lots of major flooding..). So now we are looking for hikes in the "lowlands".

Not much good weather in the forecast, but we were lucky on this Sunday with a window of blue skies (albeit icy winds!) in the region near where we live, so we undertook a section of the Jura Crest Trail (one of seven national trails, this one 320km linking Zurich and Geneva) which I have wanted to do for a while: An 18-km stretch from Staffelegg pass North of Aarau, to the city of Brugg. (This is Section 2. We have done Sections 1&3, both in half-sections, and the last three 14-16)

The Staffelegg pass is an important crossing of the Jura chain, connecting Aarau with the Fricktal Valley and Schenkenberg Valley (we have hiked in the latter valley before, there is a beautiful castle ruins which we explored at the time).

This 18-km stretch is mostly on wide forest or paved country roads, so not difficult, but also not particularly interesting, as we were mostly in the forest and didn't pass through any interesting hamlets or farms. There were a few view points where we got glimpses of the snow-covered (but also cloud-covered) Alps and the famous Habsburg and Wildegg castles on the Aar River. Perhaps the place of greatest interest would be the linden tree in the town of Linn: The "Linner Linde" is the largest Linden Tree in Switzerland, possibly also almost 400 years old, as legend has it that the last remaining survivor of the village of Linn planted this tree in the year 1668 on the graves of all the people in the village who died of the plague....


At the Staffelegg Pass: 2 hrs. 15 minutes to the largest linden tree in Switzerland, and 4 hrs. 15 minutes to Brugg. Which is quite exactly how long it took us.

Looking back at the Staffelegg Pass (on the left) where we got off the bus (having come up from Aarau)

Looking directly East toward Zurich. The hill is called Chestenberg, and below it is Holderbank. On the very right would be Schloss Wildegg

This is called a "Tree Chapel". They are specially prepared by planting four trees in a square, with a bench in the middle for travelers like us to enjoy a shady and peaceful rest (we learned that from the information board on the right)

Lovely pastoral rolling hills in this area

A zoomed view into the Alps to the South. I should know what these peaks are called, but because of the cloud cover, I can't place them.

This is a look-out point on Mt. Linnerberg. There were several other people up here, who told us that the lake in the back is Lake Hallwilersee

Descending from Mt. Linnerberg to the village of Linn

A view of the mighty "Linner Linde" from above

Legend has it, this tree was planted on a mass grave of all the people from the village who died during the plague

The largest linden tree in Switzerland, and possibly 400 years old

First glimpse of the city of Brugg on the left. The peaks behind it (actually in Baden, the next large city over) are called the Lägeren, and they are part of the first section of the Jura Crest Trail. We have walked over them twice already.

Most of our walk was through the forest on wide forestry roads

Near "Vierlinden", a view South to the Aar River, and at the circle is the Castle called Schloss Wildegg.

Zoomed view of the Wildegg Castle, which we also have visited before!

And slightly Southeast is the Habsburg castle, with some very large-looming Glarner Alps in the background! (also a very zoomed-in view). 

We found a great spot near a fountain, time for a coffee break

"Gäbiweg". Not sure if climbing into the junipers was such a great idea

Heading toward Brugg. The trail actually follows the mountainside to the left, and we approach the town from the North

Looking down at old town Brugg from the North side

Brugg is a very old city (there are Roman Ruins -- Vindonissa -- on the South side of the city). This "Black Tower" is first mentioned in documents from 1238, and the lower part of the tower is built from stones from the abandoned Roman ruins of Vindonissa.

Crossing the Aar River into the city. Just North of here, the Reuss and Limmat Rivers join the Aar for the rest of its journey to the Rhine. 


Over 17 km to walk from Staffelegg to Brugg. Took us 4.5 hours. This is Section 2 of Trail no.5: Jura Crest Trail. On a previous occasion we have walked from Brugg via the Habsburg castle to the Wildegg Castle, Trail no.42

Several hikes in this area as well


In November 2014 we visited the Schenkenberg Ruins near the Staffelegg Pass