August 5, 2020

Sections of the Toggenburg and Amden High Trails in Canton St.Gallen

Wednesday August 5th -- After returning from our 3-day trip to Davos, the weather cooled and we had lots of rain on Monday and Tuesday. Perfect for relaxing before the next big trip, which was to a very far corner of Switzerland (Puschlav), requiring over 5 hours of travel, so a trip we wanted to take when we had several days in a row. Problem was, the B&B we like to stay at had availability for only Thursday and Friday. So we planned our 3-day trip there for Thursday to Saturday.

But Wednesday was a glorious day and required more hiking, so we did a day trip "close by" (two hours), a section of the Toggenburg High Trail on the North side of the Churfirsten Range. The Toggenburg High Trail has several sections that are simply too long to do between public transit access, and even this stretch was a good five hours to walk. But it included a section of the popular "Amden High Trail" which we had attempted once before but had to cut short because of too much snow (in October!). But the day was splendid and actually quite cool, and we were even surprised that after the short heat wave, Mt. Säntis actually had a fresh dusting of snow!

The highlight of the hike was going to be a ride in another of those farmers' cable cars, which turned out to be way more popular than we expected, given that the website advertises that it runs at 9:00 and 11:00 on weekdays (Whaaaat??) and there is a car park right next to the little cable car hut, so by the time we got there shortly after 9:00, we were about 25th in line! I timed the run: 12 minutes including loading of the FOUR people that were technically allowed, would mean that we had to wait about 75 minutes! But we lucked out, as they were squeezing 5 into the box, and Urs and I each played the "fifth wheel", so we were up and ready to go on our 15-km hike only 45 minutes later than expected.

As is usually the case lately, the day started stunningly, and then about an hour into the day clouds covered the sun, but there were so many nice views and so much variety (including a difficult and rather wet and slippery section over karst terrain) that the five hours simply flew by.


Heading toward the Churfirsten Mountains from the North Side

Beautiful morning for a 10-minute walk from the bus stop to the barn with the cable car. We have our fingers crossed that we are the first ones there!

As we get to the barn, the parking lot is full of cars and there are already about 25 people ahead of us, and the cable car is already operating at full power!

After just two runs, they needed an extra person to make five in the car, so I gladly volunteered! I had the best seat in the house with best view.... and the milk can got a ride too!

Heading up in the Selun Alp cable car. This view is up the Thur Valley toward Alt St.Johann

Mt. Säntis comes into view, and it is a huge surprise to see how much snow it received overnight! (It is, after all, only 2500m in altitude!) After the heat wave, it got quite cold!



Zoomed view of Mt. Säntis. I am happy I got to see it like this. About an hour later and for the rest of the day, the mountain was fully covered in clouds

A look NW along the Thur Valley to Stein and Nesslau

I waited about 20 minutes at the top, Urs came up two trips later. That's him in the purple.

Poor Urs got squeezed in to the lowest part of the cabin! By the way, the fellow in red is probably the farmer waiting for his milk cans. Since the people put their packs in the back, he might have to wait even longer than we did!

This hike ended up being 5 hours and 15 kilometers, but a combination of sunshine, cool temperatures, and a large variety of different trails and things to see along the way, made it not seem that long at all. We started at Selun Alp on the East side, walked along the North side of the Churfirsten range, along the Toggenburg and Amden High Trails, then to the chair lift above Amden.


Heading off on the Toggenburger Höhenweg (High Trail) only about 45 minutes later than planned, we are being observed as we follow the easy farm road. 

Here's who was watching us from on high. It was a bit weird. 

Looking back toward Mt. Säntis

The first three kilometers went past a few farms along this wide road. It was not too tedious because the air was very cool and the views were good.

First three kilometers on a slightly rising road

A look back over the pasture landscape we crossed, before starting the first climb. 

The first climb was through karst terrain and didn't go as quickly as expected, because the trail was slippery and you really have to watch where you step. 

We haven't quite missed the alpine roses

Making our way through the rocky landscape

On the other side we get the first view of the distance we still have to go to our destination, which is not straight ahead either!

Approaching our second uphill climb!

We really had a perfect day for this.

More beautiful meadow flowers. Really prolific right now are the poisonous purple Monkshood.

Many steel cables help us on the narrow slippery trail!

Another look back at where we started. Mt.Säntis is now hidden in the clouds.

And a look to where we are headed. First down to the trail along the ridge, then below the little green peak and to the right, then around the hill in the middle (on its left side). On the hill on the far left is the small community of Amden

A steep descent

Cows with white stripes around the middle have a special standing in the herd. 

Heading toward a place called Vorder Höhi, which we walked to on a winter trail last year. 

It took us three hours to walk here to Vorder Höhi from Selunalp. Next goal is Hinter Höhi (1 hour 30 minutes), and from there the next cable car is another 30 minutes walk. We could shorten our walk by heading to Arvenbühl, but we have walked that section twice already.

A look South toward Arvenbühl

Here we are now walking along the Amdener Höhenweg (Amden High Trail), a trail we tried walking in October 2014 but had to give up due to too much snow. To get to the end, we have to walk up valley to the right first.

Heading up into the next valley

This part of the Amden High Trail is very popular and easy to walk.

Cows with freckles.

Fireweed is also prolific right now!

So pretty with large fields of fireweed. 

Finally made it to Hinter Höhi. Only another 30 minutes to go!

Up to this point we were not really aware of how long this hike was turning out to be! Trail no. 3 is the Alpine Panorama Trail, and Trail no. 48 is the Toggenburger High Trail. 

Cool mountains

Heading South

Across the Valley is Kerenzerberg, where we also walked a few weeks ago.

And finally a peaceful 15-minute ride down to Amden, and a chance to rest our feet!

The lovely community of Amden, above Lake Walensee
Suddenly this came up on the chair lift! I'm not sure what that was about.

Heading back down to Ziegelbrücke by bus from Amden. We have done many hikes around here and along Lake Walensee, especially on this, the sunny side.

Many hikes in this area. The one we did today is the yellow curve between the two red cable-car lines. 







August 1, 2020

Cliff Trail and Panorama Trail from Weissfluhjoch to Gotschnagrat

Saturday Aug.1st -- On our third and final day in Davos, we did one more hike before heading home, something I had also long wanted to do from studying the maps, but which requires the use of local funiculars and cable cars, which can get expensive unless you have the special guest pass. Since we had spent two nights in a lovely B&B exactly to our taste, we had the benefit of the guest passes for a huge reduction on the local public transit.

Starting on the first run (08:15) of the Parsennbahn funiculars (x2) up to the Weissfluhjoch on the West side of the valley this time, we followed the 3 km "Cliff Trail" South to the Strela Pass, a very favourite of mountain bikers, and we were happy to move out of the way for all of them to enjoy their ride. (This section of the trail was closed for most of 2019 to make the trail safer). Turning to the East and then North again, the additional 10-km trail to Gotschnagrat above Klosters is called the "Panorama Trail" and is a very popular hiking and biking trail at any time, especially now during vacation time. We were aware of this and so took it in stride. Most of the well-laid and fairly level trail is along barren rubbly mountainside until you get to the Parsennhütte (restaurant and cable-way for ski season) where the landcape finally turns green. 

Without any shade along the way, except on the cliff side, and then when the clouds, as usual, covered the sun during the best part of the hike, the heat might have been unbearable except for a cool breeze. But we were glad to get back into the shade of the train for the way home.

Highlight: We discovered real Edelweiss growing wild: The first batch we would not have noticed except for other hikers were photographing there, but the second I spotted on my own, so proud! Even though the area is known to have Edelweiss, the flower is scarce and not easy to find. 


A last goodbye to our lovely B&B before heading out for our third day of adventure in Davos

From the front garden of the B&B we look straight up to the hillside where we are going to walk the panorama Trail
At the mid-station of the Parsennbahn Funicular, all the people are quickly loading themselves and their bikes into the second train.
Before heading out on our hike, we watch the funicular descend from the summit station at Weissfluhjoch.
We hadn't realized that there was an additional cable car going up to the actual summit of Mt. Weissfluh. We could have used our day ticket to quickly ride up there, but hadn't planned for it, and then it would have gotten late. There were thunderstorms predicted for early afternoon.

Looking down at the first section of our hike, the "Cliff Trail" on the shaded side of the mountain.


First of many bikers heading down the trail

Our trail for the day:  From Weissfluhjoch (summit station of the Parsenn Funicular) 3 km along the Cliff Trail to Strela Pass, then another 10 km on a fairly level trail called the "Panorama Trail" to the cable car at Gotschnagrat, to descent to Klosters.


Heading out on the easy trail. Signs warn of falling rocks, and we are not supposed to stop along the way.


Spectacular rock formations. The trail was less exciting than we expected, but they spent most of 2019 fixing it up so it would be safe for bikers

Peak of Mt. Weissfluh in the background
Just before the Strela Pass is the valley that descends to Arosa
This just looked cool
The sign warns bikers that the trail is heavily used by hikers between 9:30 and 15:30. Everyone was very respectful and we didn't mind making way for the bikes.
Personally, I prefer walking these trails. I don't think I would enjoy the concentration required for biking. 
A view South toward the mountains in the Ela Regional Park. In the middle is a peak that fascinated me. In the meantime I found out it is called Mt. Tinzenhorn
A good trail and easy to walk. Too bad we had no sunshine along this section
I discovered some Edelweiss flowers on the hillside next to the trail. They are not so easy to see!
Along the East Flank of the mountain we get a good look at Lake Davos and the place where we had spent two nights at a B&B

The lower train on the Parsenn Funicular line is just heading down to the city again.
A look back as we round the corner on the wide flat trail, and head into a curve toward the middle station of the Parsenn Funicular
Easy to ride, easy to walk.

For now, not too hot yet!

A look back to part of the trail along a second cliff on the East side. To the far left is the summit of Mt. Jakobshorn where we were the day before
At this point we get a really good view down the Dischma Valley, where we were the day before (Mt. Jakobshorn on the right)

The trail crosses under the funicular line


VIDEO:
Funicular descending from Weissfluhjoch 
as we pass beneath the railway line


Top section of the Parsenn Funicular Railway

Stunning panorama view of the Landwasser Valley, with Lake Davos on the left, and the stretched out community of Davos, plus views into the Flüela and Dischma Valleys
And to the North a view into the Valley that stretches from Klosters to the Silvretta Glacier

 
Along the flank of Mt. Totalphorn (= Dead Alp Horn, very appropriate)
Here we rested for a long time in the cool breeze, as it was getting hot now. This was the warmest of the three days we were there. Ahead, after the Parsennhütte, the landscape turns lovely green again.
Close-up of all the people walking on the Panorama Trail
Zoomed view of the Silvretta Glacier to the East
Lovely landscape, looks cool in the hot weather
We have just about reached our destination at the Gotschnagrat cable car. Looking back at the Parsennhütte and the trail we came along Mt. Totalphorn on the left.
A look to the North into the Prättigau Region of Canton Grisons/Graubünden. Storm clouds are gathering. 

Looking down to the city of Klosters from the summit station of the Gotschnabahn cableway

We got to the cable car station just minutes before the next descent, so we decided "Let's go right away". Turned out to be a nice ride, there were only 6 of us in the huge cabin.

The Klosters Gotschnagratbahn aerial cableway

Arriving in Klosters in time for the train out of the valley. 


Another approx. 4-hour, 13-km hike in the Davos area. Would have been better if there was shade along the way to cool off, or if the day had been cooler. But still better than at lower elevations, where there was a heat wave.