From Luzern to Horw along the Waldstätter Trail

Saturday March 16, 2019 --  After many cold and rainy days, this day turned absolutely fabulous! We didn't need to go far, the weather was great everywhere.

We decided to hike another section of the Waldstätter Trail, a 115 km trail around the entire Lake of Luzern (Vierwaldstättersee). The section we picked was a 12-km stretch from Luzern around the Horw Peninsula on the West side of the lake. We were pleasantly surprised at the many splendid views we had across the lake and all over the mountains of Central Switzerland.

Other highlights were the many waterbirds and the large shipyard belonging to the SGV Navigation Company of Lake Lucerne. A great variety of ships there to observe, including some catamarans, gravel transports, and army boats! And of course barnyards and historical customs houses and ending with a little stroll through the Steinibachried, a marsh of national importance. 

Even though much of the excursion was on paved ways or roads, I hardly noticed because of the many interesting things to see and of course the views. What I DID notice, was that it was almost too hot in jeans. Next time, I have to pack up the shorts just in case....

*** As it turned out the Wednesday next was also beautiful, so we returned to the end-point of this hike and continued along the Waldstätter Trail over the Renggpass to Alpnachstad. Pictures and description to follow in the next installment... 


Link to album for the second section hiked the next day: Here

From the KKL Theater near Luzern train station, this is the view of Luzern

These steamboats offer public transport all over Lake Lucerne, especially in summer

The Luzern SGV shipyard. Very interesting to look at all the boats

Lots of waterfowl to observe

There are comfortable pathways all along the lakeshore with these views into the Uri Alps

Richard Wagner, the famous composer, made this his home for six years between 1866 and 1872. It is now a museum

All along the shoreline, these lovely views

Everywhere signs of Spring. Especially the Bear Garlic in the forest, that is a sure sign of Spring!

There is a short uphill climb, totally worth it as the views always get better. In the background, Mt. Rigi

Such villas also dot the countryside

More villas on large properties overlooking the lake

Zoomed view of the snow-capped Uri Mountains to the East

At this, the highest point of the walk, we had to sit for a long time to cool off. But the views were worth it!

Walking downhill again to the Horw Peninsula

To the West, the dominant local mountain: Mount Pilatus

Straight ahead to to South: Mount Stanserhorn

There are always interesting old buildings to look at

The trail doubles as a Theme Trail on a short section: Placards provide information about our Solar System

From this vantage point we can see the peak of Mount Bürgenstock, where there is a very special elevator that was built over a hundred years ago. (This is the highest outdoor lift in Europe). 

This zoomed view shows the Hammetschwand Elevator (highest outdoor elevator in Europe, built in 1905). We plan to try this out once the cliff walk is reopened (North side, so is closed in winter)

Pleasant walk along dry clean paths around the Horw peninsula

On the other side of the peninsula we descended to the town of Horw. This marsh is of national importance for preservation of various species of amphibians

In the little community of Winkel are historical buildings... this one was the old customs house built in 1699

Before heading to the train station, we spent some time in the sun on the lakeshore in the marsh

In the Steinibachried marsh in Horw, near Lucerne

Our 12-km walk from Lucerne around the Horw Peninsula and down to Horw, along Trail no.98, the Waldstätter Trail

Lake Lucerne. The 115-km Waldstätter Trail goes all around this lake. 

A Little Trip Back in Time at Castel San Pietro near Mendrisio

Wednesday March 13th, 2019 -- Our trip to the Southernmost part of Switzerland was a foray into Spring... to see if it's really on its way. Plus this was really, really the only spot with sunshine... Even here in the South there was a point where we passed a distinctive line of clouds into the sunshine.

Not yet green, but lots of colour starting to show: Magnolias are actually already shedding their petals, and if you look carefully, there are little bursts of colour everywhere...

Originally, we wanted to start higher up, at a place called Sagno, to close the "link" for hikes we've done previously. But the bus driver left Mendrisio station late (no reason, just chatting with another bus driver) and an old lady who got on along the way couldn't find the change to buy her ticket.... so we missed our connecting bus. But no big deal, we just started from there in Morbio Superiore, and headed down into the Breggia Gorge, which forms the lower part of the Muggio Valley and where the rocks that break the surface are millions of years old. 

On the other side of the gorge at Castel San Pietro is the Red Church (Chiesa Rossa), possibly named so because of its colour, but perhaps because of a Romeo/Juliet type of scenario which took place there in 1390, where a revengeful family murdered all the members of the other one as they celebrated Christmas Mass.  History.... repeating itself over and over.

After a fancy lunch of homemade pasta at a renovated estate farm, the rest of the afternoon was spent walking along the mountainside, checking out villages with narrow alleyways, and ending with a tour of Mendrisio's old churches before returning to the station, where we had our standard dessert at a Gelateria, which really marks the end of the tour...


*** Oh, and after the fact I found out there is a valuable Serassi organ in the Church in Castel San Pietro, which we did not visit, so this will require another trip. Where we will also request the key to the Chiesa Rossa, to view "one of the richest series of Gothic Frescoes in Canton Ticino".

From Morbio Superiore: Looking across the Breggia Gorge to Castel San Pietro on the right and the Chiesa Rossa on the left. And you can see all the way to the Valais Alps at the back the highest mountains in the Swiss Alps

The "Red Church" (Chiesa Rossa - This structure is 675 Years Old!) sits on the edge of a cliff above the Breggia Gorge

Down at the bottom of the Breggia Gorge are the remains of the old mill. The diagonal stone slabs are over a million years old.

A pleasant quiet place to have a coffee break, in the Breggia Gorge where the excavating power of the river has uncovered rocks over 80 million years old!

And little bits of colour everywhere

On the other side of the Gorge is the Chiessa Rossa, where lots of blood was shed on Christmas Eve 1390. The Church is locked because of the valuable fresco paintings inside

From the location of the Chiesa Rossa, we can see across the Breggia Gorge to Morbio Superiore where we started our excursion. We actually wanted to start higher on the right. But one day soon we will walk across that ridge at the back, which actually is along the border with Italy

The parish church in Castel San Pietro (Sant'Eusebio) contains a rare Serassi Organ

When we were in Castel San Pietro last time they were renovating this this very old farm estate. It is now a fancy restaurant and hotel with its own wine production, so we had lunch here. Looks like a museum. Pasta was home-made. And I love when the menu is a chalk-board placed next to your table.

A very nice lunch at Ai Cuntitt in Castel San Pietro

From the Estate, a view over the cemetery in Castel San Pietro

And a zoomed view of the Valais Alps 100k to the West, the highest peaks on Swiss ground

Maybe next time we will try a different restaurant, this one is less fancy but rustic

The blooming magnolias are a pleasure!

Up on the hill, the next church to visit (also locked).

 

Behind the little hill at the back on the right is where we actually wanted to start our hike.

The streets are very narrow. You always hope no one is coming in the other direction!

Lots of interesting alleyways and passages to discover

This beautiful church which we did not visit was at a place where we decided to head down to Mendrisio

Across the city is this very old structure, perched at the top of the cliff. You have to try to imagine it in the Middle Ages, without all the modern buildings around it.

Across the rooftops of the historical center of Mendrisio (Borgo)

We popped into two of the old churches, San Giovanni Battista (1722/1733) and Santa Maria in Borgo (1518). Always such artful interiors

One of many interesting courtyards to peek into

These ladies were a hoot. They weren't going to move their car for us to get through. "No problem" they said, "There is lots of room to squeeze by!" . Which there wasn't.

The main church in Mendrisio, Chiesa dei Santi Cosma e Damiano. It has a dome on the top which you can't see from this angle. 

The piazza in front of the Church

Always beautiful here in the South with the palm trees and the early blooming trees

And finishing off with a very yummy, very large serving of Gelato near the train station!

Our "short" hike today, only 8.5 km. We wanted to start in Sagno, bottom right on the map. That would have added the missing kilometers to make our regular 10-12!

We have done many hikes in this area, the Southernmost part of Switzerland. We have walked through the vineyards and the Breggia Gorge, and in the Muggio Valley. I really wanted to start in Sagno and walk down to Morbio Superiore to close that gap, but the bus was late leaving Mendrisio station, and didn't make the short connection in Morbio.

This area is in the southernmost part of Switzerland, very near the border to Italy.