Valle d'Isone to Val Colla via Gola di Lago

Tuesday December 4 --  Another rainy foggy day in the North, and always amazed as we emerge from the Gotthard Base Tunnel just to the South of the Alps at how starkly different the weather is on that side!

Pure blue skies, temperature forecast of 14 degrees, although there was a cold North Wind blowing, which is always a challenge, as the air alternates from too cold in the open areas then too hot where it is wind-protected: It's hard to know how to best dress for this...

This time we hiked from one valley into the other, which meant the first hour's climb was in the shade (North side of the mountain in Valle d'Isone) which was not an issue because a steep climb is better at cooler temperatures. Afterwards, as we walked on the flank below Monte Bar from one typical Ticino hamlet to the next we mostly enjoyed the afternoon sun in open clearings and light birch forests before descending into Val Colla to Riveredo, always with views of Lake Lugano and finally facing the magnificent mountain range called "Denti della Vecchia" ("Old Lady's Teeth).

A neighbour recently said to me: "Are there no other places in Switzerland than the Ticino?" Well to that I say, where else can we hike in the mountains at 15-20 Degrees in December?"

Our hike started in the village of Medeglia in the Valle d'Isone, across from Monte Tamaro to the West. For the first hour we hiked up the shady hill to the left. 

The first hour climb was on the shady side of the hill

Along the way the forest was thick, and it was only as we got to the top that we had an open view of Valle d'Isone, with the village of Isone at the very back. This valley is a training ground for the Swiss Military. 

There was a massive rock slide here, looks like that tower might also come down some time. 

At the "pass" between the two valleys (Gola di Lago, whereby Gola = Throat) is a moor of national importance. 

From here the rest of the walk is along the sunny flank of the mountain through clearings such as the one at the back on the right.

Zoomed view of a couple of the clearings that we are heading to

On this side, we are basically heading South and West, always with Lago di Lugano ahead of us.

Even walking through the forest, the birch trees offer lots of light

Taking a moment to admire the Capriasca Region of Southern Ticino

The Capriasca: Ahead is Lake Lugano with the city of Lugano and its "home mountain" Monte San Salvatore, to the right is the airport in Agno. And just a little further South is Italy.

North of  us the snow-capped mountains of the Leventina

A good place for a cup of coffee, but the wind was cold on my back, so we had to move on quickly again. 

This is where we stopped for coffee, a lovely clearing with lots of sunshine and a great view

More lovely birch forests

Monti di Roveredo, which is the upper mountain hamlet related to the town of Roveredo further below. 

First glimpse of the mountain range called "Denti della Vecchia"

Almost down at the road that heads into the Valley called Val Colla, this is one of three larger villages we passed through. This one was called Somazzo.

At the far end of the village of Somazzo was this cute little chapel called "Oratorio di San Giovanni Bosco" (Bosco = Woods). It's not particularly old or historical.

Wonderful early winter weather for hiking.

Through the second village of Treggia, and then on to Roveredo. 

At the third and last village (Roveredo) before heading to the main road to catch the bus, this was the last late afternoon view from the piazza in front of the little church.

On the bus back to Lugano Main Station, this is the view to Monte Bar and the Val Colla Valley, and the general path we took from Gola di Lago, the pass on the left.

It took us 4.5 hours to walk this 3.5-hour trail. We took lots of time in the villages, and got lost once.

In 2016 we also crossed Gola di Lago, but started in Isone and ended in Tesserete on that particular hike, also 3.5 hours. 

The Old Market Route at the far end of the Centovalli

Wednesday November 28 -- Another mild day in Canton Ticino, although we are finding it hard to find suitable walking trails for this time of year, that we haven't already done!

At the far end of the "always worthwhile for a trip" Centovalli (although at this time of year lots of shade because the valley is so deep) near the Italian border are several villages on the sunny hillside, villages we hadn't discovered yet, which lie along what was apparently the old market trail from Camedo to Verdasio to Intragna near Locarno.

Starting at 10:30 in the still-in-the-shade village of Camedo near the Italian border, it didn't take long till we emerged into the sun just above that village, and from there it was a mild and not even strenuous hike up to Borgnone, then Costa, and through some slippery wooded trails to Lionza. All these tiny villages have so many quaint alleys and marvelously built stone houses and artistic churches, there is so much to look at. 

The last leg toward Verdasio was on a very pleasant trail where we ran into a trail blockade: Closed because the bridge needed repair. I can't count anymore how often we have come across trail blockades this year, but in this case we didn't want to turn back, and we have passed much more difficult sections than a wooden bridge with a few slats missing.... for example the river between Costa and Lionza that was very difficult to pass, and no bridge there at all!

Riding the Centovalli Train from Locarno toward Camedo. The journey passes through several villages with churches such as this one in Verscio.

Crossing the Isorno River at Intragna and heading into the Centovalli. This view is to the East (Cimetta, Cardada), where we started. This part is in shadow for most of the day in winter.

Camedo (start of our hike), just this side of the Italian border, is in shade for most of the day because it is low in the valley.

(Here is the same favourite spot when we came here with friends!)

At the top of the village of Camedo is the church, and slightly higher, the promise of sunshine!

We could have continued to Verdasio in 20 more minutes, but its train station is another 20 minutes on the opposite side. And we've been to Verdasio about 3-4 times now.

The first village: Borgnone: Wonderful sunshine!

Borgnone basically consists of a church and a small alley with houses on each side. 

Borgnone basically consists of a church and a small alley with houses on each side. 

From Borgnone, this wonderful view West across the border to Italy and the Alps behind Domodossola

Our next goal: straight uphill to Costa. Here it looks like there used to be a set of stairs going up from the road, but someone just walled it up, including the sign post. But we could see the trail marker above, so we just climbed the wall. Turns out the start of the trail is now at a residence to the left of here. 

Heading straight up the hill to Costa (160m) this is the view down to the Church in Borgnone, and Verdasio in the background (near the end of our hike)

Village of Costa way up on the hill, lots of sunshine up here!

Turns out that's not a wall I'm sitting on, but a very wobbly pile of rocks, not yet cleverly stacked into a solid wall!

From Costa we get a view down to the next village of Lionza, and in the back is Verdasio, but we headed down to the railway line just before that village

Heading from Costa through the forest toward Lionza, our next stop.

We came across a wild stream with no bridge and slippery rocks, it took us a while to find a good place to cross. This was harder to cross than the broken bridge we cam across later.

Looking behind us to the village of Costa where we just came from

Lionza, another lovely village with lots of old (1696) Rustico buildings, but also new and renovated ones.

Sat on a wall and enjoyed this view while drinking thermos coffee. Across the valley is the village of Palagnedra, which is the name of the railway station where we ended our hike, but quite some distance below!

 

"Suburb" of Lionza. I love these villages

Chiesa di Sant'Antonio da Padova in Lionza

Chiesa di Sant'Antonio da Padova in Lionza. From here it was down through a good forest trail all the way to the Palagnedra train station, about 200 altitude meters lower.

"Attention: Bridge closed because it's dangerous. Will be repaired in Spring 2019". But we couldn't wait that long, so we passed. We've crossed more difficult sections of trails!

Centovalli train heading to Camedo. We'll catch it on its way back from the border and enjoy another 30 minutes of sunshine here at the little station in Palagnedra!

A logical extension to this tour would be Verdasio (40 minutes more to its train station), but we've been through that village three times already, so we ended our tour at the train station called Palagnedra

Centovalli is near the Italian border

We have covered lots of ground in this area!