September 9, 2018

More Mountain Dairy Farms in the Brunnital Valley

Sunday September 9, 2018 --  Another valley we go to a lot is the Schächental Valley, because there are lots of wonderful hiking opportunities, from Eggbergen at the entrance of the valley, all the way to the Klausen Pass and over on the eastern side in the Urnerboden Valley.

Before the road heads up toward the Klausen Pass is a side Valley called Brunni Valley, at the back of which is a mighty vertical wall of stone, a 7-km wide North face, one of the largest in Switzerland. We were here once before in May, but ran into snow on the trail we had planned to walk, so we wanted to try this again. Also, we had read about a small mountain restaurant boasting of the best views up and down the Schächental Valley and their homemade Lebkuchen, so that was our plan for Sunday.

We are having an unusually warm September and with perfect weather in the forecast, we knew there would be MANY people in the bus to the Klausen Pass (three buses, all packed including standing room). What we didn't expect were the number of people wanting to go up to Sittlisalp in the Brunni Valley (it is very ideal for families!). We had to walk 2 km to the cable car station, but cars are allowed to drive up there, and when we got there, the 20 or so people ahead of us (x4 people per cable car transfer x7 minutes per transfer) meant a wait of about 45 minutes, which kind of cramped my style. But in the meantime, there were AT LEAST 30 people waiting behind us, so I guess you could say we got up there "quickly". 

A 40-minute walk through the forest (heading out of the valley) got us to the Obsaum Bergrestaurant at a good time for lunch, and the meat/cheese platter and Lebkuchen as well as the view were as good as claimed. And we even got treated to an alphorn performance, which with the backdrop was such perfect Swiss cliché.

Back at the cable car and on along the wide road toward the back of the valley, we first bought some cheese at the Sittlisalp cheese dairy, and then walked the lovely mountain trail we had missed out on last time (clouds covered the sun at the best part.... what's new?) and walked down to the other Alp, Brunnialp. That was in shadow so we didn't stop there, walked straight out the valley from there back to the starting point, with surprisingly lots of sunshine at 4 p.m. (the walls are steep, so I expected shadow). Total 13 km, 4.5 hours.



At 10:30 a.m. there is still lots of shade in this North-South Valley, because all the cliffs are so steep

The cable car takes only 6 minutes for the course, plus a minute to unload and reload. So it transports four people every 7 minutes.

First a 40 minute detour (plus 30 minutes back) to the mountain restaurant Alp Obsaum, before heading in the other direction to the back of the valley

The view East into the Schächental Valley toward the Klausen Pass is definitely as spectacular as promised!
This is a popular restaurant, and if it's not too busy the owners will play a piece on their alphorns (or small accordeons with yodeling). And the views also as good as promised.

We had their signature meat and cheese platter, plus homemade Lebkuchen for dessert
The sound of the alphorns fit so perfectly in the mountain setting


VIDEO: Alphorn Performance at Alp Obsaum

Back at our starting point we head South toward the rock face to the next alp called Sittlisalp, where they process the milk produced all summer right here in the alpine dairy. The cottage cheese made here is used by the bakeries in the Schächental Valley below

Buying cheese at the Sittlisalp Alpine Dairy (this time we purchased one with chives)

Up to this point the road was wide and cars can drive up here (there is a toll). The geese did a good job of defending their territory... we walked a detour around them....

From here starts the mountain trail we were not able to walk last time.

Ahead is the mountain trail we couldn't walk last time in May, because of too much snow. Our end goal is Brunnialp below.

I'm always happiest walking these kinds of trails

Sometimes the farmers have to find innovative ways to permit the hikers to cross their fences!

Some other day or year we will walk up that valley to the mountain lake called Seewlisee, but for now this is as far as we go. It's downhill from now on.

Arrived down at the third pasture called Brunnisalp, the sun was blocked by clouds, so we didn't stop here. We continued down and back out the valley to Unterschächen, which took a little over an hour.

One last look backwards at Brunnialp and the large North Face of the ridge called Gross Ruchen (very popular with cliff climbers)

The 4.5-km descent back to the Schächental Valley was mostly through forest along a river, with some games for children along the way

We passed under the cable car on the way out, busy bringing people back down to the parking lot.

We had surprisingly lots of sunshine on the way out.

And a final look back southwards into the Brunni Valley

Total distance walked: 13 km, 4.5 hours.

On a recent trip with the Bus to the Klausen Pass, this is what the alpine dairy farms in the Brunnital Valley look like from the road high above the Schächental Valley





September 8, 2018

To the top of Mount Buochserhorn via the Rocky Bleikigrat Ridge

Saturday September 9, 2018 -- There are a few trails in Switzerland that we do more than once, or variations thereof, and today was such a trail in the lovely pastoral landscape of Central Switzerland just South of Lake Lucerne.

We have done a variety of tours starting or ending in the sleepy convent village of Niederrickenbach which we access by cable car, and today we did a variation which included an ascent to the summit of Mount Buochserhorn (1806m) which we have wanted to do since a long time. Most people start in Niederrickenbach and from there ascend and descend the 650 altitude meters, but we went up further with the little private cable car to the mountain farm called Musenalp (1755m) and took a more complicated route over a ridge called Bleikigrat, which is rated a T3 or Blue/White trail, i.e. one level more difficult than the regular hiking we do. This is because the narrow trail and the crags you have to navigate require good shoes, good concentration, surefootedness, and no fear of heights, BUT it's exciting, the views are sensational, and it cut our final climb to the peak to only 225m. 

(As an afterthought, it is not recommended to do this trail after a day of rain, as of course in our case. We had to be extra specially careful. But this was the second time we have done this ridge hike. The first time it was very dry and no problem at all).

As usual in the past while, it seems the clouds and fog follow me and this was no exception. The clouds came and went, but this time it was looking promising until we reached the summit, and the fog rolled right in (though not for long). But all in all, except for sore feet from my new hiking boots, we had loads of great views and this late summer weather is perfect for hiking.


On the way to Dallenwil by train, this is one of my favourite tableaus out the train window, that little chapel with Mount Buochserhorn in the background, the peak we want to reach today.

Near Dallenwil (seen below) is the Niederrickenbach cable car. Carries 30 people and it was very full!

At the Niederrickenbach station (we did not get into the village this day) is the second cable-car, the one to Musenalp beyond that rocky ridge above!
This cable-car holds only four people, and lucky most people walk up from here, because each trip with this cable car takes about 13 minutes and one had just left when we got there. So we had to wait about 25 minutes for our turn, and we were 6th in line.

Stunning. Also popular for rock climbers. (You can just see him at the bottom, looks like a spider...)

At the top enjoying the view over Lake Lucerne.

Looking over to Mount Buochserhorn... I had to marvel at how that single cloud is hanging right over the peak, just laughing at me....

The sign warns that the ridge trail is an alpine trail requiring good shoes, and only for experienced climbers without vertigo

Not the easiest, but definitely the most exciting way to get to the summit of Mount Buochserhorn!

Lake Lucerne in the background, and the two Mythen mountains

Very much enjoying the trail, except we had to be VERY careful as it was wet

Along the Bleikigrat Trail

We had just come down this difficult couloir as we passed these people going up. I think it would have been easier going up.

And finally back to the normal trail (it took us 40 minutes to cross the ridge). Everyone here is enjoying the view up the Engelberg Valley

Trail markers said another 45 minutes to the summit, but we did it in 35

Another view across Lake Lucerne to the East.

Looking back where we had crossed the ridge. We originally started at the green meadow on the right side of that table-top mountain

Although we had great sunshine for the climb, as soon as we got to the top, some bits of fog moved in and blocked the sun, so we didn't stay long. This view is to the South up the Engelberg Valley

Looking North from the summit, this is one of the many arms of Lake Lucerne, and the city of Buochs. Right ahead is Mount Rigi, our local mountain.

On the way down we found these HUGE mushrooms...

I was thrilled at these fields and fields of meadow saffron flowers replacing the long-gone spring meadow flowers

The last part of the hike is a lovely forest trail all the way back to the village of Niederrickenbach

The 7-km tour took us about 3 hours 30 minutes. The small ridge alone took 40 minutes.

These are the many tours we have done starting at or ending at Niederrickenbach. The one in yellow we have done at least four times, it is an easy 2-hour round tour. The Bleikigrat ridge we have walked twice.

September 2, 2018

Sleepy Canton Jura and a Walk through the Ravine "Combe de Tabeillon"

Sunday September 2 --  As we prefer not to be in the mountains when it is foggy or rainy, we opted for a trip to the far West of Switzerland (very near the border to France), where the weather tends to be nicer. Although it wasn't really on this day, and started out rather cold...

But our 3-hour walk was through a thick and unspoiled natural forested ravine called "La Combe de Tabeillon", where the private railway "Chemins de Fer du Jura" zigzags its way from Glovelier to La Chaux-de-Fonds. So a few raindrops weren't the end of the world, although for me the excursion was rather monotonous, as most of the 11-km walk was along a wide gravelly road, and all just simply "straight ahead". And not much to see along the way other than a ton of foliage and a few stunning cliff formations. We couldn't even see the little red train as it passed several times, because the foliage was so thick.

Highlights were the isolated restaurant called "Buffet de la Gare" at La Combe where we started our hike. ("Buffet de la Gare" means "Railway Station Restaurant", but the railway station was a tiny bus-shelter-like structure, also in the middle of nowhere). We were checking out the restaurant for a wheel-chair-bound friend, who loves trains and wants to come here for an excursion. Test is passed, all is wheel-chair accessible -- even the "train station" -- and the road to Pré-Petit-Jean in the other direction is paved, so they (he and Urs) can "go for a hike" together.

Another highlight, if you can call it that, was the Etang de Bollement, a small pond in a nature conservation area. For me the most surprising part of the excursion was coming across a meadow full of Autumn Crocuses, which means sadly.... the start of Autumn.....

But most notably, and perhaps least forgotten, is that shortly after we left home and headed West in the morning, the train ahead of us hit a 29-year-old man who for unknown reasons was walking on the railway track. Lucky for us it wasn't our own train, as that must be a traumatic experience, to be in a train that has run over a pedestrian. For us, it meant our train had to back-track and we lost an hour, but for a train involved in such an accident... it is a long procedure before everyone can get on with their day again....


Riding "Les Chemins de fer du Jura" from Glovelier to La Combe

Along the way at the station called "Combe Tabeillon", the railway line does a switchback to gain height, because there is not enough room here to turn a corner. Our walk brought us back to this location.

The starting point of our hike: La Combe, where there is really nothing except this restaurant, where we stopped for a coffee and to see if it is wheel-chair accessible. 

Indicated is 2 hours 45 minutes to Glovelier, which is exactly how long it took us. But to me it seemed to go on forever, much longer than our long mountain hikes.
At the single spot where we could actually see through to the railway line, a special charter train drove by. That was a highlight too.

This lush part in the nature conservation area near the pond was perhaps the nicest section of the hike.

Pond called "Etang de Bollement"

The whole ravine was thick and lush with foliage. I imagine this would be pleasant on a hot day.

We came across this pretty plant, which when researched looks to be Indian Balsam, which is actually an invasive species.

On this special geological outcropping live Great-Horned Owls and Peregrine Falcons (according to the information board) but we saw no birds, unfortunately

Definitely a great rock outcropping for birds to nest and hide in.

90 minutes from the start of our walk we got back to the switchback at the station "Combe Tabeillon". There was a picnic area here where we had our lunch.

For me the biggest surprise: An entire meadow filled with Autumn Crocus. A reminder that summer is soon over.

In the entire 10 km through the ravine there was only this one residence called "La Ferme de la Combe Tabeillon". Apparently the pond here is of national importance for the breeding of  frogs and toads

La Ferme de la Combe Tabeillon

And finally arriving in Glovelier where there are a few interesting structures to look at.

Back to where we started: The Railway Station at Glovelier

Approx. 11-km trail through the ravine called "Combe de Tabeillon". Took us exactly 2 hours 45 minutes as marked at the start of the trail.

This location is near St.Ursanne and Porrentruy in the very far NW of Switzerland, near the border to France. We don't come here often.