Clariden High Trail from the Klausen Pass to Urnerboden.

Parkes is our model for all our hikes this week.

August 5, 2018 -- Vacation Week Day 2: Our hike along the Clariden High Trail from the Klausen Pass to the Fiseten Pass in Canton Uri started with the ever-fascinating Post Bus ride from the Reuss Valley at Flüelen and eastward along the Schächen Valley, one of my favourite valleys in Switzerland. Tight hairpin turns and narrow roads take you high above the kettle-shaped end of the valley to the pass. From there we hiked a short distance (1 hour!) to a glacier lake where we sat for at least another hour just listening to the groanings of the glacier: Small and large rocks continuously dropping off the surface of the massive ice wall into the lake below, and chunks of ice breaking off (unfortunately mostly into a large cleft behind the wall, so we could only hear it), and finally a massive chunk broke off the large exposed wall, which we witnessed but did not photograph as I was just setting up for a self-timer photo and could not delete the program in time for a quick shot. 

I'd say of all the wonderful things we saw this week, this was probably my favourite place. Even the hike itself, I think it's one of the nicest high trails in Switzerland, but luckily not as well-known as others...

From here, another 6 kilometers (approx. 2 hours) of up and down through high alpine pastures high above the Urnerboden Valley included highlights such as spotting a marmot, purchasing locally-found quartz crystals (they say if you carry one in your wallet you will always have cash in the wallet), and most delightful naturally is that this valley belongs to the Swiss Brown Cow, and you hike among them in their pastures. A real treat! At the Fiseten Pass we took a cable car back to the Urnerboden Valley which is the largest alpine meadow in Switzerland, where 1200 cows roam free in Spring and Fall, and they even have a large cheese factory up here to process all the milk produced during the summer. No viewings of cheese-making available, but we purchased local cheese from the cheese shop, before getting back on the bus to continue eastward to the Linth Valley, and from there to Appenzell, where the adventures for Day 3 were to start....

Post bus ride from Flüelen in the Reuss Valley, along the Schächen Valley, to the Klausen Pass

Up here you hike with the cows

A thrill for all our guests (and for me too) to be able to pet the cows

Klausen Pass on the Clariden High Trail

Looking down the Urnerboden Valley to the East, the largest alpine meadow in Switzerland.

Great hiking buddy!

The only marmot sighting of this whole week, and Parkes saw it as she was photographing these cows! I would have missed it.

Big marmot. Wish we had seen more!

Even though the air was a bit hazy, it was a wonderful day away from the extreme heat in the valley bottom

A small easy-to-miss trail detours to the glacier lake, simply named "Little Glacier Lake"

First view of the glacier lake as we came over the rise. The glacier is very close

It was hard going picking our way through all the rocky debris

We spent over an hour up here observing the ice and rocks breaking off the glacier and either falling into the lake or into the cleft behind the ice wall. Side Note: Urs' carpenter cousin built these benches. 

A large piece in the center of the ice wall broke off after we had reached the far side of the lake. These pictures are before.

  

Just missed photographing the huge block of ice that fell off the glacier wall. It created a small "Tsunami"...

This was the self-timed photo I was setting up for when the chunk of ice broke off. Would have been great if we could have caught it right as the shutter went off!

Finally time to head on to the rest of the hike

First part of the hike: From the Klausen Pass to the glacier lake. Second part along high alpine meadows to the Fiseten Pass, and then with the cable car down to Urnerboden Valley

A look down into the Urnerboden Valley where the Klausen Pass Road descends again eastward. This road is closed in early winter.

Canton Uri has masses of quartz crystals, usually found in caves. You have to have a license to search for them. Usually farmers and their kids find them and sell them at such stands along the hiking trails. Payment is on the honor principle.

More and more cows all along the way, just minding their own business and tolerating the tourists!

In the hot summer the cows get moved from the Urnerboden pasture below, to even higher alpine pastures

Way in the back the cauldron with the glacier and glacier lake. We are headed to the next pass, the Fiseten Pass

In the center at the back is the Klausen Pass, where we started the hike.

At one small steep section there were a few hiking helps

Last section toward the Fiseten Pass (trail junction ahead) and the cable car station on the left. Way ahead in the middle is the Linthal Valley where we are going by bus.

Last time we were here we walked down to the valley, but it was a very steep 700m descent, so this time we took the cable car.

Below is the little village of Urnerboden. In winter the road is open to here, as some people live here all year round. at the back in the trees is the cheese factory, and to the left is the road that continues toward the Klausen Pass to the West.

Upper Left: Urnerboden Valley, the largest alpine meadow in Switzerland where 1200 cows roam free in Spring and Fall. All the milk produced here in summer is immediately processed in the Urnerboden cheese factory and sold at the cheese store.

Our Hike: Not quite 10 km. Fantastic hike as always. 

To get to the Klausen Pass from our home takes only a little over two hours with public transport. After our hike, we took the train to Appenzell, where we spent the night with plans to hike in the Alpstein Massif the next day.

Hike along the Largest Glacier of the Alps: The Aletsch Glacier.

August 4, 2018 -- Vacation week: For us this means what else but hiking! This week we have a lovely visitor from USA who seems to be thrilled to join us in our hiking expeditions, so we are trying to work in some hikes that we think would be interesting for her as well. These are hikes we've done before but wanted to do again. 

The first one we did together was to the largest glacier of the Alps: The Aletsch Glacier. It is 23 km long and at its thickest point about 900m deep. Some other interesting facts about this glacier: It covers approximately 82 square kms; the ice flows at 200 m per year; in summer the glacier loses 20 cm of height per day, and 60,000 litres of water PER SECOND flow out of the end of the glacier. Also, the fact that it moves slower at the base and sides (friction) creates the build-up of the hills and crags. Furthermore, the entire Aletsch Arena received Unesco World Heritage Status in 2001.

We did this same hike but in the other direction almost exactly 4 years ago. There is one place where you can get up close to the glacier, where you can see from the side how high it really is, and where you can, if correctly prepared, also climb onto it. Four years ago when we were here there was a huge wall of blue ice.... just four years later the entire surface dropped so that you now only see the layer of dirt that travels on top of the glacier. Somewhat disappointing, yet also awe-inspiring. Unfortunately a cloud hung over Mount Eggishorn all day so we walked mostly in the shade, and even though this was a relief from the 34 degree heat in the valley bottoms, it also meant it was very uncomfortably cold standing next to the glacier, so we didn't stay long!!!

The hike took longer than planned because the lower trail was closed due to rock slides, so this 14-km hike (including a 1200m long tunnel) which should have taken 4 hours ended up taking us 5 hours to walk.

To get back home we took the long way back along the upper Goms Valley and via Andermatt, stopping in Münster to admire the old Valais houses and barns (many of which are being renovated into cute little residences), passing through the 15-km long Furka base tunnel (which joins cantons Valais and Uri) and past the smallest village in Switzerland (Zumdorf) and the ever fascinating bridges in the Schöllenen Gorge on our way back down to the Reuss Valley. 

From the GomsValley below we first went up by cable car from Mörel to Riederalp, and walked 1.5-km to the next cable car which took us up to our starting point: Moosfluh

Cable car from Riederalp to Moosfluh

Below a sighting of the Hérens Cows, specific to this canton Valais (although unusual up here, I think). These sturdy compact cows have a natural "fighting" instinct and are used in competitions. When we meet them on our hikes, we make a big detour around them.

The viewing platform at Moosfluh, the start of our 13.5-km hike to Fiescheralp

After a 1.5-km walk from cable car to cable car, we have another 13.5-km walk to our destination at Fiescheralp. The lower trail which we wanted to hike was closed due to rock slides and we had a large uphill detour.

Pretty high-altitude ponds

Normally we should have been able to take a trail to the left here, but it was closed due to danger of rock slides, which we didn't know. So whe had to go all the way up to the Bettmerhorn summit station (ahead) before continuing to the left of the Bettmerhorn outcropping. 

Walking in this direction we always have the fabulous glacier ahead of us.

A last look behind us to Riederalp below. On very clear days you get a very good view of Mount Matterhorn.

There were lots of Valais Black-nosed Sheep grazing up here. So glad we got to see them, another local animal. 

The faster motion in the center of the glacier as opposed to the sides creates these mountains and crags, which are way larger than they look.

Surface of the glacier

There were lots of people up here on a Saturday, and we mostly had to walk in the shade of the cloud, but we had fun!

Down below this edge is the place where we can get right up to the glacier

This is the thickest spot of the glacier, called Concordia Place, where the ice is almost a kilometer thick. Three glaciers flow onto each other here. In the back are Mounts Eiger and Mönch and on the very left the Observatory at Jungfraujoch, called TOP OF EUROPE and accessed from the North Side.

Heading down to where you can get up real close to the glacier

It took us a good 20 minutes for the detour to the glacier, and it was VERY cold here, especially as the sun was not shining.

This perspective shows how thick the glacier is at this spot.

Comparing to four years ago, the glacier has shrunk massively.

 

Heading back up from the glacier to continue our hike.

We had lunch at lake Märjelensee. Some people actually swam in it!

Spied a blue heron fishing!

Loads of wool flowers and upper marsh areas

Here we grabbed ice cream cones to go, and headed to the 1.2-km long tunnel

The 1.2-km tunnel saves us quite a bit of time.

Back on the South side, this view is as we emerge from the tunnel. Below is Bellwald.

Emerged from the Tunnel on the left, and got a view of another glacier, the Fiescher Glacier

Heading back to Fiescheralp to catch the large cable car back down into the valley to Fiesch. We had to walk quickly because missing this run would have meant waiting another hour.

This was the whole excursion: Three cable cars and two stretches of walking. Below on the right is the Fiescher Glacier, which we saw when we came out of the tunnel.

Below in Fiesch we got back on the little red Gotthard-Matterhorn train and headed northeast toward Andermatt instead of returning via Brig and Bern (takes the same amount of time).

We had enough time to stop for an hour in the little village of Münster where there are loads of old houses and stalls, many being restored into homes. The outside of the structure must be maintained when renovated, because they are under heritage protection.

In Münster, in the Goms Valley

After traveling through the Furka Base Tunnel, we continue along the Ursuren Valley to Andermatt, past the smallest village in Switzerland: Zumdorf.

Along the Ursuren Valley, past the smallest village in Switzerland, and down the Schöllenen Gorge to Göschenen. Love the trains where you can open the windows!

Our trip with the train: From Zug to the Aletsch Arena via Bern and the Lötschberg base tunnel (34.5 km) and the return via the Furka Tunnel (ca. 15 km ) via Andermatt and Göschenen.