Mettmenalp and the Oldest Wilderness Reserve in Europe

Wednesday July 25th:  The area called Freiberg Kärpf in Canton Glarus is the oldest (450 years) wilderness reserve in Europe and at 106 sq.km one of the largest in Switzerland. It is also a magnificent area, like a large green canyon with a sparkling dammed lake at its North entrance, and a single charming hotel at the edge of the steep drop toward Schwanden below. The area is part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site Tectonica Arena Sardona, an area so designated because it displays excellent examples of the creation of mountains and other land features through tectonic thrust. (Notably the Glarus Thrust)

Heading up to higher elevations to try to beat this heat wave, we discovered that an altitude of 1800m and a steep 1-hour climb of 300m is not high enough yet (hot hot hot)! But luckily, after the steep climb, we had cool winds for the rest of this 4.5-hour round-tour we did. It was magnificent. 

Being a wilderness reserve, we had hoped to see many animals, but they don't like the heat much either. One would probably have to be here very early in the morning, or after sundown. Nevertheless, with some patience and concentration we caught a movement of brown on a patch of snow high up, and with the zoom lens (not great resolution, though) captured a chamois who had found some tufts of grass in among the rocky cliffs. 

The main attraction on this round tour is the 50-m wide natural bridge carved by the river out of a soft layer of what is called flysch geology. This bridge is one of the more spectacular landforms created by the Glarus Thrust. At low water levels you can walk through the cave-like passage, which I tried from above but couldn't descend one short piece or cross the river in the cave. I should have tried it from below, but it was fun anyway. 

And considering how yellow the rest of Switzerland has gotten, we were pleasantly surprised at the large amount of green up here....

The excursion starts with a cable-car ride up the narrow gorge from Kies (20-person car) and a walk across the dam, which incidentally is made entirely of stone, and not concrete

Actually, before starting on the hike, we got to look down the valley where we'd come up by bus from Schwanden in the Linth Valley (this is right in front of the Mettmen Hotel)

On the steep 1-hour ascent, here's a view of the lake-side trail which we plan to walk on the way back to the cable car

The Garichti Lake actually has two dams. There's one on the East side as well.

Another look North into the Linth Valley, with the quaint Mettmen Hotel right on the edge of the gorge.

At the top of the first uphill section, we get our only views West, but there were a lot of clouds. In the back is an alpine hostel (Leglerhütte) which one can also access from here, but it would have been an additional hour.

Upper moor lake. There were a couple of these along the way.

Another uphill section to the back of the valley before we turn around and head back along the "canyon"

This is at the back of the valley where we had our picnic lunch. 

Heading East into the "canyon"

Back here at the back of the valley is where we spotted the chamois on that piece of snow way up there.

I don't have a professional zoom lens, but what I could photograph was definitely a chamois!

Lots of pretty flowers of course

Heading North back down the valley toward the Kärpf Bridge

We were surprised to find snow up here, but at least didn't have to walk across it this time!

Finally arrived at the Kärpf Bridge, a 50-m natural bridge hollowed out by the Niederenbach River

I entered the cave from the top but could not cross at the last piece where the kids are standing. They managed to cross by starting at the bottom.

From the bottom side, the Kärpf bridge is much more stunning

A stunning hole in the middle of the landscape, created by Tectonic thrusts and the power of water

Last section is this upper wetland where all kinds of ecology-specific species thrive

Crossing to the West side of the lake for the final stretch back to the dam

The water was so wonderfully clear and turquoise

This dam is constructed entirely of stone instead of concrete

And the final section, back down to Kies with the cable-car, to wait for the bus back to Schwanden

This round tour took us 4.5 hours, but there is a shorter 2.5-hour option if you don't go all the way to the back of the valley

10-km round tour in the Kärpf Wilderness Reserve. Took us 4.5 hours to walk.

A Long Overdue Trip to Lake Spilau

Friday July 20 -- As a rare exception we took Friday off for a planned day of hiking with friends.... actually, the plan was a 2-day hike with overnight in a small mountain hostel, but as the weather forecast had for rain all day Saturday we didn't want to risk getting caught on a long descent on foot in the rain.

So we made a Friday morning hike out of it, which turned out to be just perfect. The morning atmosphere in the mountains at 8 a.m. is soul-soothing, and the large alpine pasture at Lake Spilau not far from home is magnificent. And it was surprisingly green up here, considering a lot of Switzerland is yellow now due to lack of rain....

Our bus driver who took the four of us up the Riemenstalden Valley from Sisikon remembered our two men, who when in highschool had participated in one week of volunteer work up this valley, helping set up a sorely lacking water system to the farmsteads. Furthermore, once up on the mountain we met other old school friends and distant relatives... what a small world! We helped the alp farmer round up one of his cows who needed treatment for a wound, and then he joined us for coffee at his cheese dairy, where we also purchased three types of their home-made cheeses including a specialty cheese called "hay cheese" (ripened in a coat of hay). 

After a total ascent of 450m from the cable car, we descended into the next valley over, the Schächen Valley, to our favourite alp restaurant where we ate our regular pork steak with macaroni, and by that time the clouds had moved in with light rain, so it was time to take the next cable car down....

As an aside, this is where my Aunt Ruth goes every year to pick alpine lady's mantle for her special herb tea....

We were picked up by a small bus at the train station in Sisikon on Lake Uri, and then driven up a narrow winding road into the Riemenstalden Valley.

Early morning light in the Riemenstalden Valley. We are headed up to those craggy cliffs up there.

A private cable car (4 people) takes you up to the high alpine pastureland. The farmer also transports his calves down into the valley with this cable car.

From the cable car station to the lake, then a stop for refreshments and to buy cheese, over the saddle and down to Alpe Selez for lunch, before taking another cable car down to the Schächen Valley. 

Up here are the coolest rock formations: This is karst geology

Heading up to Lake Spilau in this extra specially beautiful landscape

At this cluster of homes we met up with old classmates and distant relatives, including the farmer who mainly works this huge pasture (they also make their own cheese)

(Video): The farmer recruited us to help block the way so that his cow would head into the barn for treatment of a wound...

Looking back toward the Cable Car station

First glimpse of Lake Spilau (Spilauersee)

Heading toward the little house where they store and sell the cheese, and where you can have something to drink

Cheese storage: the darker ones are from 2017 and cost more than the 2018 cheeses

And off we go to head up the 300m hill before it gets too hot! 

The meadows are blooming wonderfully right now, such a pretty sight!

One of the few photos with me in it on this excursion.

Getting closer to the top

Almost at the crossing point. We can already see into the Schächen Valley to the South.

Some pretty flying things

Arrived at the highest point on the trail, this is the view to the West (Isenthal Valley)

After rounding the hill it's downhill all the way, heading South. In the middle of the picture on the dark ridge you can just barely see the little cable car station from where we are going to descend into the Schächen Valley

More meadows, simply captivating

Still more meadow flowers, so many different kinds, as far as you can see! We have seen so many meadow flowers this year.

As we head South, we get a glimpse of Lake Uri to the West.

 

Even though this was a "short" hike, we had lots of variety

This natural rock garden looks like it was planned this way! I was really impressed by this.

Lots of snow still in the Uri Alps. The clouds are moving in quickly now!

More meadows, I just love the meadows!

Approaching our lunch establishment from above. The wide open meadows up here have been harvested efficiently (this is done at least three times in summer). The hay is a necessity to the livelihood of the mountain farmers

Here's our favourite mountain restaurant: Alpe Selez. It got kind of cold eating out on the terrace, though.

This cable car (Ruogig) takes you down the very steep hillside to the South, into the Schächen Valley. This one carries 6 people, but you have to change into a 4-person car about halfway-down. 

Changing cable-cars halfway down. This one carries only four people.

Only 7 km but still a three-hour hike because of the steep uphill section after the lake.

These are all the hikes we have done in this area