Along the Valais Sunshine Trail from Eggerberg to Naters

March 24, 2018 -- It was a beautiful and sunny day all over the country this day, but we decided on a walk along the "Sunshine Trail" (Route 61: Walliser Sonnenweg) in the Valais, officially a 75km trail from Montana to Brig along the south-facing slopes of the Rhone River (called the Rotten here) Valley.

The section we did was Stage 4 between Eggerberg and Naters, an 11 km stretch which took much longer than anticipated (4 hours) but also turned out to provide a nice variety of narrow trails, a large part next to the railway line (South Ramp of the Lötschberg Railway), several sections up and down steep rocky areas nicely laid out with stone steps, along two of the many famous irrigation channels of this area (called Suones, and very necessary for watering this dry area), always with views up and down the Rhone valley.

Of particular interest was the BLS protected forest, a huge reforestation project by the BLS train company (who built the Lötschberg South Ramp) who purchased the hillside and planted 10 million trees and built an elaborate irrigation system of tiers and tiers of handrail-type pipes throughout the forest to keep the slopes from eroding and damaging the railway line. Sections at a time receive 24 hours of irrigation, and hikers are warned that they should come prepared with rain gear. Lucky for us, they weren't irrigating that day, although it looked like there might have been some recent watering, where the forest floor was particularly advanced with carpets of bear garlic, violets and even the first signs of crocuses and daffodils.

This fantastic structure is the Aarburg Castle, which we pass on our way to the Southwest part of Switzerland

We started in Eggenberg and walked 11 km to Naters, along the South Ramp of the BLS railway line, along the Laldneri irrigation channel which draws water from the Baltschieder Valley, and along the Drietschneri irrigation channel which draws water from the Gredetsch Valley. The BSL protection forest is the entire slope between Lalden and Naters.

From our starting point in Eggerberg, we walked back toward Brig parallel to the railway line. This section of the Walliser Sonnenweg (Valais Sunshine Trail) is also the Lötschberg South Ramp Trail

From where we started near Eggerberg, this view is South into the Matter Valley, across the city of Visp. At the back is the Mischabel Massiv, whose highest peak (Mount Dom) is the highest peak solely on Swiss terrain.

On this first section we follow the Laldneri Suone (Irrigation Channel). This 5-km long channel whose origins go back to 1312 takes its water from the Baltschieder Valley, and is still in full operation, bringing water to the pastures of the village of Lalden below.

The first 4 1/2 km of the trail follows the South Ramp of the BLS railway line

The first 4 1/2 km of the trail follows the South Ramp of the BLS railway line

Originally there was only one track here built on an old stone support. To expand to two tracks, they simply poured a second support of cement against the old stone support.

Trains from the BLS train company run on the South Ramp from Bern through the Lötschberg Tunnel to Brig.

A great spot for a picnic and train watching.

Exciting signs of Spring

Further up the hill we head into the BLS protected forest.

The forest is full of hand-rail-type pipes which run 24 hours at a time to make sure the roots get plenty of water

 

A system of pipes provides water for the 10,000,000 "newly"-planted trees in the BLS forest.

There were a few steep stretches (up and down) nicely laid out with stone steps

Bridge crossing the exit of the Gredetsch Valley, another parallel valley from which several Suones carry water toward the Rhone Valley.

Approaching the city of Brig (below). The hike is taking a lot longer than the 3 hours 10 minutes advertised on the trail marker at the start.... (it took us 4 hours altogether)

These slate-tiled roofs are typical of the Valais area of Switzerland

A look backwards into the Rhone Valley and the BLS South Ramp Railway line far below (BLS Protection Forest on the entire hillside on the right).

Here we followed another Suone (Drietschneri) for about 1 km, this one has its source in the Gredetsch Valley and is mainly used to water the protection forest. No water was running at this point because it is being cleaned.

Last stretch before descending to the town of Naters below

The church in Naters and the fascinating Bone House

We have done many hikes in this area. In three sections we covered the entire 26 km of the Lötschberg South Ramp Trail between Hohtenn and Brig. This trail was the first railway trail created in 1960.

View of Mount Eiger-Mönch-Jungfrau Trio as we head back home after the Löstschberg Tunnel

Historical Farm Houses above the Gürbetal Valley near Berne

March 14, 2018 --  Spring weather teased us a bit this week... A couple of hours work in the morning and then off to the Berne area in just over 2 hours to enjoy a sunny afternoon hike (12 km) in the mellow pastoral countryside, with views of my favourite Bernese Alps, which view was actually the reason for picking this hike.

The trail is officially called the "Gürbetal High Trail" (Gürbetaler Höhenweg) which is a 28-km trail winding above the open valley between Berne and Thun (actually a glacier moraine), through which runs the Gürbe River. The area is known for its historical and fabulously well-maintained farm houses, which was a real treat, besides the view of course, and the tantalizing spring weather.

On the larger farms in Switzerland (especially also in the Bern area), additional buildings called "Stöckli" were erected for the elder farmers to live in once they passed the farm on to their heirs. We saw many such Stöckli along the way, some dating as far back as early 1700's.

Other interesting sights along the way: Here and there lie huge "foundling" boulders (or "erratics", as I recently learned they were called), remnants from 20,000 years ago when the Aar Glacier deposited them in this area after carrying them over 75 km. 

And a staple of the Swiss landscape: The farmers are out in full force raking leaves off their meadows and fertilizing with liquid pig manure, a smell that forms an integral part of the Swiss landscape. We were lucky the farmer had to take a break to "fill up" just as we passed the area he was working in. Can't imagine what being dosed with "pig manure perfume" might be like....

Spring is teasing us with the first snow bells (covered by snow again about a week later).

Some of the beautiful Bernese farm houses we passed along the way (top right is a Stöckli)

This magnificent structure was built in 1717 (a rather large Stöckli... at the very top they used to store grain, at the bottom was a cellar, and in the middle were the living quarters).

Our first view of the Bernese Alps as we cross through the meadows

Bears in the forest

This 4.5m high "erratic" is 20,000 years old and was transported here from 75 km away by the Aar Glacier (this is actually a glacier moraine)

We took a coffee break on a bench, and wondered how we would pass by this tractor without picking up the smell of the manure

Lucky for us, the farmer had to go for a refill, so we took advantage of the break and passed the spot where he was working....

Back there in the red circle is the bench where we had taken our coffee break.

This is a particularly pretty farm house.

The walking trail takes us right through the farm yards

And what would the Bernese farm be like without a resident Bernese Mountain Dog! The little structure in the photos is a Stöckli, built both as storage and for older generations once the farm has been passed to the heirs.

And now the first glimpse of the favourite Bernese Alps (Mount Jungfrau), a distinctive sight in Central Switzerland

This is a particularly pretty sample of a Stöckli. Usually there was a cellar below and an upper level to store grain, and in between were the living quarters.

Another coffee break, to enjoy the sunshine and the view (just a bare glimpse of Lake Thun at the foot of the Bernese Alps)

Enjoying the rare sunshine and Spring weather above the Gürben Valley

On the right is the small hamlet called Obertoffen which we passed through before descending back to valley bottom. Also, this was the view from our bench....

Finally the clouds have lifted to show the North Wall of Mount Eiger. But my favourite peak is Mount Finsteraarhorn, which is actually the tallest peak of the Bernese Alps ((4,274 m (14,022 ft))

More beautifully-maintained farm houses (this one is in Fallenbach, alledgedly one of the best-preserved old hamlets in this area).

I'm not sure what this structure is, but each "hamlet" had one. This one dates back to 1764.

One last snapshot of one of my favourite views: Mounts Finsteraarhorn, Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau)

This is the area where we walked, on the Gürbetaler High Trail in the Gantrisch Nature Park.

Snowshoeing on Klewenalp above Lake Lucerne.

March 4, 2018:  Tried snowshoeing for the first time, kind of liked it, I might do it again.

But never again in a family-oriented skiing and sledding region, on a sunny Sunday afternoon, on a trail touted as a snowshoe trail but really just a regular walking trail, something we could have done without the snowshoes.... plus we had to share the trail with all of the above (sledders, skiiers, walkers), and the PEOPLE, so many people, so long to wait for the cable car, buses crammed full of people with equipment...

We will have to rethink our destination next time. This was close to home, so the hope was to get there and back fairly quickly. But there are advantages to spending more time going to more remote locations....

BUT the feel of spring is in the air... (which probably means clouds and rain for the next two weeks....)

After waiting for three cable car trips (about 20 minutes), it's our turn up, but the waiting room behind the platform is still packed!

Below on Lake Lucerne is a wall of fog, which lifted shortly after we got up to Klewenalp.

View down on Lake Lucerne and the two peaks called Mythen. (Cities of Schwyz and Brunnen at the foot of those mountains)

Fog is cool if you don't have to be IN it.

This was our view as we found a sunny spot for a picnic lunch before trying out the snowshoes (At the South wall of the little chapel in Klewenalp)

Heading up the hill from Klewenalp

Looking back toward Klewenalp, there is the little chapel where other people have taken our place on the sunny South wall where we had a picnic lunch.

On the short stretch that was actually a snowshoe trail, but which we could have walked with regular shoes.

It was fun to try out the snowshoes. Sunshine was pleasant and the mountains were fantastic as usual.

Mountain landscape was fantastic as usual

I don't mind sharing the trail with this cutie!

In a spot where the mountain throws a shadow on the trail, and the sun lights the trees from behind 

So pretty how the sun lights up the trees from behind.

Usually we pick a sunny spot for our breaks.... this structure has seen better days.

This is our destination (Stockhütte) where we can take the gondolas back down to Emmeten. Lots and lots of people enjoying the sunshine here.

SO MANY PEOPLE!

As nice as it was up here, we headed back down to lake level right away.

Lake Lucerne, Mount Bürgenstock. On the promontory below is Beckenried, where we started with the cable-car ride up to Klewenalp.

As per usual, our excursion starts and ends with cable cars, and this time a short 6-km stretch in between.