February 18, 2018

Two Trips to the Granite Quarries between Bellinzona and Biasca

The cold weather and cold winds here are not showing signs of letting up, so as long as the option is available to us, we keep heading South of the Tunnel on our days off, even if it's just for a handful of hours of sunshine. So this past week we did another two trips down (that's a total of four trips in two weeks) for some hiking near a couple of granite quarries, one hike on each side of the Leventina valley, across from each other.

Sunday February 18th - This one was a long hike (11 km), a round tour starting and ending in Lodrino, with a hefty ascent (450m) to a couple of mountain villages perched above the massive quarry on the West side of the Leventina Valley, starting South of the quarry and descending in Iragna North of the quarry. We returned along the Ticino river, which was slightly boring and by that time (3 pm) that area was in shade already. Our favourite part was a series of cellars built into the large boulders (of which there are plenty) in the woods, and each one had a stone picnic table next to it, like a place you come to do your Sunday BBQ instead of having a garden plot like they do here up North...


(See further below for description of second tour)

Above the large granite quarry near Lodrino is the village of Pai, which was our first destination after climbing up from the valley bottom.

Our excursion started at this pretty and typical Ticino waterfall and clear turquoise pools in Lodrino

The Ticino village of Lodrino. 

South of us the air in Bellinzona was pretty hazy

This area was full of cellars built under the boulders, and small elevated patios with granite picnic tables.

Until a few years ago, these little structures were small restaurants called "Grotti"

Here's to hoping that spring is just around the corner.... (or is that just wishful thinking?)

After climbing for 45 minutes we made it to above the quarry. This view is to Lodrino, where we started our hike. (Three days later we returned to hike above the quarry on the left of this photo)

Pai

Above the quarry is a smattering of houses in a sunny clearing (this community is named Pai) with a beautiful old stone church/chapel (Oratorio San Martino) dating from the early 13th century. The door was barred but through a small slit I could see very old frescoes on the walls inside.

From the road above Pai, looking down over San Martino church to the Ticino River below.

30 minutes later we reached another mountain village called Sacco, where we "borrowed" someone's granite picnic table to have a coffee break.
 
This lookout point over Biasca and into the Blenio Valley was the highest point of our tour before descending back into the Leventina Valley

This last village called Citto is in shadow most of the winter. This was 1:20 in the afternoon!

The trail down was very steep, and the destination was Iragna, North of the quarry. From here we headed over to the Ticino River for our walk back to Lodrino.

Checking out the granite tables and fountains on display at "Gottardi Graniti"

The return along the Ticino River was rather boring

One more look at the quarry and the mountainside above (where we walked), at 3 pm already long in shadow.

This 11-km tour took us 4 hours to do

And this was the weather North of the Alps

+++++++++++++++++++++

Wednesday February 21st - This one was a relatively short hike, just over 5 km and only 300m ascent above a smaller granite quarry on the East side of the Leventina Valley. We ascended at Cresciano and came down in Osogna, passing mostly through forest strewn with humungous boulders, a popular area for practicing free-climbing. Our favourite spot this time was a lovely series of waterfalls and pools with stunning rock formations carved smooth by the water, somewhere we'd like to return to in summer for a swim... except we found out from the Internet later that this spot (Boggera River in the Cresciano Valley) is a popular place for canyoning in summer, so we'll have to see just how popular it is.... 

In the Ticino, the steep trails are usually "outfitted" with steps, either hewn directly into the rock or created by clever laying of stones and stone slabs.

After a short steep ascent we arrive at a community called "Sul Sasso" (translated means "On the Stone") on a pleasant sunny hang.... they must get lots of sunshine here because there were many small vineyards.

The forest was strewn with HUGE boulders, a favourite area for practicing free-climbing.

This was our favourite place, the bottom part of what is apparently a series of pools and waterfalls created by the river Boggera (higher up) where you can go canyoning.

If it had been summer, we would have gone for a cold swim!

Higher up is a gorge replete with such waterfalls and pools, a popular place for canyoning.

This was our planned destination for lunch: The chapel called Santa Pietà overlooking the Ticino River

Picnic lunch on the granite steps of Santa Pietà

From this vantage point we get views South along the Ticino River....

...and views northwest to Lodrino and the granite quarry, above which we walked three days earlier

Zoomed view of the town of Lodrino across the valley, start and end of the 11 km hike we did three days earlier.

Zoomed view of the granite quarry across the valley. The machinery gives an idea of how large the granite blocks really are.

Very happy to be able to enjoy the mild sunny weather in the South.

Our descent to Osogna, where we got on the bus to go back to Bellinzona.

Also here in Osogna is a natural pool (named Pozzon) popular with the locals in summer. Not the same river or canyon, although canyoning is also popular here. 

Parish church in Osogna

Colorful handpainted shrine in Osogna, a very pretty piece of artwork

The hike from Cresciano to Osogna was only 6 km, with an ascent of only 300m, but satisfying because we got to enjoy three hours of sunshine and mild weather.



February 14, 2018

More Sunshine along "The Vineyard Trail" in Ticino

February 14, 2018 -- After about two weeks of no excursions, this week was all about getting away from the colder-than-average February weather in the North to find some +8 deg. weather and sunshine.

Which meant heading South twice in a week! On Sunday we did the short loop hike to the Contra Dam (photos HERE), and on Wednesday we also headed to this area, to walk along the same South-facing slopes but further to the East. This way we were assured some balmy temperatures and an interesting variety of trails. We walked high above the Magadino Plain and the vineyards on a trail aptly called "Via delle Vigne" (i.e. "Vineyard Trail"), with the ever-wondrous juxtaposition of palm trees with snowy mountains as the backdrop. 

Each hike we do brings us some surprises, such as waterfalls and clear pools, or a wild-life sighting, or spotting the first flowers (lots of camellias), and tiny lizards scurrying off the warm rocks... a sure sign that spring is just around the corner!



This is the weather near home as we are heading South yet again, twice in one week..
We walked about 8 km along the "Via delle vigne" between Sementina and Cugnasco

"Fortini della Fame" and the "Chiesa Santissima Trinità"
From Bellinzona we took a bus to Sementina and headed up the hill. This is the first interesting sight: A fortification line called "Fortini della Fame" dating from 1850. Our trail took us along the wall on one side of the Sementina River, and the Church is on the other side of the river.

From the "Vineyard Trail" we look down at another historical Church: "Chiesa di San Michele" from the 17th Century.

View across Sementina and Bellinzona
Walking the "Via delle vigne" (Vineyard Trail)

It's still cold enough in the shadows to freeze the spray from the waterfalls

Urs spotted two roe deer (this one is the male with small fuzzy antlers) camouflaged in the woods some distance up the hill. It's these small surprises that make our day!

At the small collection of houses called "Redonda" we had our picnic lunch (on the little bench along the wall at the back). If the owners aren't home, we often use their benches.

Every once in a while some downed trees block our trails.

It's also always a treat to come across these hidden pools called "Pozzi". In summer we sometimes swim in them.

Along the Trail above the Magadino Plain

The forests were thick with these Ticino Palm trees, which actually grow as weeds here
Looking down across the Magadino Plain

As we walk westward, Lake Maggiore comes into view.

This looked very inviting!

Here at the village of Al Bosco we headed down through the vineyards back to valley level.

My favourite picture: Palm trees with a backdrop of snow-covered mountains

This is a typical church of this area. This one is Cugnasco, the end of our hike.

We walked approx. 8 km from Sementina to Cugnasco



February 11, 2018

Short Round Tour from Tenero to the Contra Dam

February 11, 2018 -- After about two weeks of no excursions, this week was all about getting away from the colder-than-average February weather in the North (approx. -3 deg. but that is cold for us!) to find some +8 deg. weather and sunshine.

Which meant heading South twice in a week! After a quick change of plans on Sunday (after getting to our original planned destination we realized it was the shady side of the mountain), we decided to do a small (for our standards) loop hike on a South-facing slope, one that I've wanted to do for a long time now: From the village of Tenero (near Locarno) up on one side of the Verzasca ravine, across the beautiful Contra Dam (made famous in the James Bond movie "Golden Eye") and back down the other side. We had all-round success with this one. Lots of sunshine and views and lots and lots of stairs, about 300 altitude meters on both sides. 

And always on our excursions there are special unexpected surprises: An impromptu trip across the border to Luino in Italy where we saw some relatively rare locomotives on their way North to the Carnival in Bellinzona (a 150-year-old tradition called Rabadan), and then catching the end of that same carnival parade on our way home. And particularly satisfying is to know we had a mild sunny day while this day up North was wet and cloudy.


A short detour across the border to Luino in Italy, before heading back North along Lago Maggiore

In Luino they were preparing a special "ancient" train for an extra run up to the carnival in Bellinzona (Switzerland)

Heading North again, we decided on short notice to walk up to the Contra Dam in the Verzasca Valley

The hike up the left side of the ravine to Contra consisted mostly of steps. The 7 km hike took us just over 2 & 1/2 hours.

Most of the way up to the altitude of the dam, the trail consisted of steps.
 
View of the Dam from the village of Contra

This area is lush with a type of palm tree that withstands temperatures up to -10 degrees.

A splash of colour in these Camellia bushes, some of which were already finished flowering.

Church tower in Contra

This is where we had a late picnic lunch (in Contra, overlooking the Magadino Plain)

Great view from our picnic bench across the Magadino Plain. 
I love the juxtaposition of palm trees and snow-covered mountains.

A short piece of the trail is on the road to Mergoscia, but then we head down through the steep forest to the West side of the dam.

Crossing the stunning Contra Dam (also known as the Verzasca Dam). In the center is a structure for bungee jumping.

View North into the Verzasca Valley. They have lowered the level of Lake Vogorno to accommodate the spring snow melts.

Popular adrenaline rush: Bungee jumping from the center of the Contra Dam (made famous in the James Bond movie "Golden Eye")

This is probably the smallest bench we've yet come across!

Heading back down on the other side of the ravine, through Gordemo, back to Tenero. Lots and lots of stairs.

Another pleasant surprise: I've seen old telephone cabins converted to defibrillator stations, but mini-libraries are a unique idea!

We had 20 minutes to change trains in Bellinzona and caught the tail end of their Carnival parade (called Rabadan), a 150-year-old tradition in this city.

Just one of many Guggenmusik bands that march in the Rabadan Parade in Bellinzona.

Old steam engine preparing for the 5 pm trip back to Italy
And the weather up North as we emerge from the Tunnel. Glad we were able to enjoy a sunshiny day!