Among the Vineyards of the St. Gallen Rhine Valley

January 24, 2018 --  We don't travel to eastern Switzerland a lot, but going in that direction on this excursion meant we were sure to have sunshine and no snow, as well as a varied walking trail on the hillside above the Rhine River where it builds the border between Switzerland and Austria.

We knew we had to expect muddy trails as it has been raining for quite a while (in fact, some of the fields in this area appear to have been waterlogged since last September, according to the owners of the lovely vineyard estate where we had a very good and reasonably-priced Appenzell Cordon-Bleu for lunch). But on the meadow and forest trails that are my favourites, the going was rather tough, as we could hardly find a spot where we didn't sink into the mud. And in the short forested sections, there were still remains of various hurricane-force storms we've had in the last few weeks, and we were lucky we didn't have to double back.

Otherwise, this 14-km stretch (Stage 2) of the Regional Trail called the "Rheintaler Höhenweg" between Berneck and Altstätten was full of pretty views (Mount Säntis and Mount Hohenkasten in the Alpstein Massif, the mountains in Austria and Liechtenstein, villages in the Rhine Flatlands, lots and lots of vineyards ) and interesting regional architecture including three castles dating back from the 14th Century. Best of all, it only took us 2.5 hours travel time to get there....

Village of Berneck, the starting point of our 14-km hike through the Rheintal Valley

Village of Berneck, the starting point of our 14-km hike through the Rheintal Valley

"The Thinker", or a version thereof

In the church in Berneck

Berneck in eastern Switzerland

I love the variety of signs you find on the shops and businesses in the cities and villages here

First stop is a fortress ruins on the hill looking down in the Rhine flatlands

This is a renowned wine area, we passed through many vineyards.

This is a renowned wine area, we passed through many vineyards. Below in the back is the city of Lustenau, which is in Austria

I love the forest trails

Everywhere there are still remains of recent storms. We were lucky we didn't have to back-track.

Finally over the hill and the first welcoming views of the Alpstein Massif with Mounts Säntis and Hohen Kasten

Zoomed view of Mount Säntis (below is Castle Grünenstein which we passed later)

We had lunch in the beautiful sunny parlor of this vineyard estate

They were prepared for us, with our muddy boots!

We had a very nice lunch of Appenzeller Cordon-Bleu in this bright parlor in the Vineyard Estate

The owner of the vineyard estate is quite the collector of orchids!

The first of three old castles we passed, this is Schloss Grünenstein, a private estate dating back to the 13th Century (renovated and elaborated since then)

In the gardens at Schloss Grünenstein

In the Gardens at Schloss Grünenstein

The second castle we passed is Schloss Weinstein. This one dates from the late 14th Century and is now a fancy restaurant and a favourite for weddings

Heading to Schloss Weinstein

The vineyards of Castle Weinstein. The mountains at the back are in Austria and Liechtenstein.

Schloss Weinstein:  Vineyards since 1375

The next castle is a little one, Schloss Neu Altstätten, also dating to 1375.

4 pm and the sun is already behind the hills as we approach our destination of Altstätten

Another attractive city in eastern Switzerland:  Altstätten

14 km between Berneck and Altstätten in the wine country of Rheintal (Rhine Valley, St. Gallen)

Olive Groves and Palm Trees on Lake Lugano

January 21, 2018 --  To escape the waterlogged North we headed South once again, but to our surprise it had snowed at least 10 cm all throughout our "Mediterranean"! Our excursion that started in the town of Brè was almost ruined for me by the bitter cold strong wind blowing and what looked like perhaps too much snow on the trail for our planned descent down to lake level, to Gandria, a village of tightly-packed mediterranean-style houses with narrow alley-ways terraced onto the steep hillside on Lake Lugano.

But the snow melted quickly with the sun, and as we descended the trail turned muddy, then dry, though by lake level the wind was so strong I was worried about our planned walk along the lake back to Lugano.

Worries were unfounded, though, as we discovered a most wonderful trail called "The Olive Trail", a tree-lined and thus wind-protected, cobblestone-paved trail which wound its way along the coast past SO many olive groves (I did not know we had this many olive trees in Switzerland!) and past huge cactuses, and villas landscaped with lush palm trees.... it reminded me so much of the popular Cinque Terre trail and if it hadn't been for the mountains across the water, we could have been on the Mediterranean. In all, a hike I ended up quite enjoying....

South of the Alps, lots of snow on the mountain tops and down to the valley bottoms, not so common here (This is Monte Tamaro)

Some shots of Lugano buildings while waiting for the bus to Brè

A little disappointed at the snow and bitter cold wind in Brè, the start of our excursion.

This is the hillside we want to descend, but here the snow looks daunting. The actual trail was passable though, getting drier as we descended. This is Monte Brè.

As we descended, the trail got slightly drier, and the snow disappeared.

Arriving in Gandria on Lake Lugano

One of many narrow alleys in the tiny town of Gandria, built on a steep hillside

Down at the lakeside, this view is to the East to Italy. This is very near the italian border.

It was VERY windy, I would not have wanted to be on a boat on the lake this day.

Looking westward to Monte San Salvatore near Lugano

First new flowers!

The first part of the Olive Trail loops around the town of Gandria. It was impressive. All along the trail were information boards describing the history and uses of olives and olive oil.

Gandria from above

The Olive Trail passes right through this private property. Passage is allowed, but you must not stop to lounge!

Starting along the rest of the Olive Trail westward to Lugano

Reminded me so much of the Cinque Terre Trail on Italy's Ligurian Coast

   

Lots of cacti, palm trees and olive trees

A particularly pretty spot was this massive cliff of striated rock, and the road built into it above.

A particularly pretty spot was this massive cliff of striated rock along which the trail is built

Ristorante Elvezia al Lago.... unfortunately closed for the season.

This cactus was HUGE, about 3 meters high

From along the trail, a look back at Gandria and the trail along the cliff face. The mountains in the back are in Italy.

Before descending for the bus, a look South along Lake Lugano from Parco San Michele

Across the roofs of Lugano

From Brè to Lugano along the Olive Trail, approx. 10 km.

In July 2015 we did a boat ride on Lake Lugano, this is what the hillside looks like from the lake.

In July 2015 we did a boat ride on Lake Lugano, this is what Gandria looks like from the lake, in summer

And this is what it looked like North of the Alps this day