October 9, 2017

Hike across the Aspi-Titter Suspension Bridge

October 9, 2017 -- Our three-day hiking trip to Canton Valais turned out to be a bit of a glacier-themed trip, which was not the original plan, but never a bad thing! Glaciers and their transformations are fascinating subjects.

It had snowed heavily on Sunday so we kept the first day hike to lower altitudes, and chose a trail that took us to a suspension bridge over a very steep canyon: The Aspi-Titter suspension bridge in the Fiescher Valley at the foot of the Fiescher Glacier. What we hadn't counted on, unfortunately, were the clouds in the valley, and the very wet, muddy and slippery trails created by the rain and snowfall. So we had to tread carefully, as the trail was narrow in many places, and the descent to the bridge was basically along the cliff face.

This 10km hike started in the very pretty and typically Valais-style vacation village of Bellwald (accessed by cable car), with a steady uphill hike to the look-out point called Schranni, at which point the clouds lifted and afforded us stunning views to the glacier tongue and the suspension bridge below. The trail to the bridge is incredible: there are cement stairs and iron ladders built into the cliff face to make the descent do-able. And the crossing of the suspension bridge: stunning as usual. This suspension bridge, only recently completed (2016) is 160m long and hangs over a gorge 120m deep. We had to ask a family with kids to please wait for their crossing till I had reached the other side, as I cannot stomach the swinging of the bridge (the height doesn't bother me though). 

We considered continuing up the gorge a piece to get a better view of the glacier, but this would have added another hour to our hike, which was already longer than expected due to the slippery trail conditions. After a difficult descent to the village of Fieschertal, we just made the bus out of the valley, and then on by train and cable car to the vacation apartment we had rented for two days in Eischoll. It took a bit of walking to get to the apartment, but no traffic and only the sounds of Valais cow and sheep bells.... (and church bells at 6 a.m....)

Heading up to Bellwald with the cable car. Down below is the new Goms Suspension bridge, also recently built in 2015 to cross the Rhone River, because the old trail via the gorge is eroding (we crossed this gorge via the old trail in 2014). The Bridge is 280m long and 92m above the river. Crossing it will be a plan for another trip!

For today, our goal is the recently completed (2016) Aspi-Titter Suspension Bridge, whose completion has created the missing link to join two popular hiking areas: Goms Valley, and the Unesco World Heritage Aletsch Arena.

Even though the low clouds and low snowfall are a disappointment, Bellwald is very pretty, with a very typical village core of Valais homes.

These old Valais structures are always fascinating
Our 10-km hike was uphill from Bellwald to the lookout point, then a steep descent along the cliff wall to the bridge. After that, the descent to Fieschertal was tricky because the trail was very muddy.

We found a cabin with a bench in the sun (the clouds were finally lifting) where we could have lunch

On the little detour to the lookout point, this lonesome cabin is in a particularly fabulous location! (look-out point is just beyond the cabin, around the corner, along a narrow trail secured with chain handrails)
From the look-out point we can just see the tip of the glacier. Lower down is a hostel / restaurant from where you can see the entire Fiescher Glacier, but we didn't have enough time to take a detour there after crossing the bridge. We'll stop there on a different trip, when they are open (closed now for the winter season).
 
Information boards show the disappearance of the Fiescher Glacier between 1935 and 2001
After our little detour to the look-out point, it's time to tackle the descent to the bridge! 
This gives an idea of how far we have to descend to the bridge. Our ultimate goal is the flat sunny area in the back (Fieschertal)

The recently-finished Aspi-Titter bridge is 160m long and hangs 120m above the gorge bottom.
The descent along concrete stairways and ladders built especially for this purpose, is quite exciting!
 
After the steep stretch along the cliff wall, we still had a steep and muddy descent along the forest trails. The bridge is on the photo, back left.

Aspi-Titter Suspension Bridge
On the Aspi-Titter Suspension Bridge
 
We still had to walk another hour or more to the bus in Fieschertal. The sun came out right about when our hike was finished!
 
10-km hike takes about 3.5 hours because you have to go carefully on the descent.
On the train ride down the Goms Valley to the Rhone Valley, where we were spending the night in an apartment in Eischoll

Evening light as we arrive at our apartment, this is the view over the mountain village of Eischoll, Northeastward up the Rhone Valley.

October 4, 2017

Basking in the View of the Eiger North Face

Wednesday Oct.4, 2017 --  This Wednesday I had to do a hike without my hiking partner, as he had to work. But days are counting down until we can no longer ride the bus or many cable cars into the higher elevations (mid-October for the mountain buses, some cable cars already don't run since end of September) and I couldn't let this nice day go to waste.

I hadn't been to the Grindelwald area for a couple years (usually try to avoid it because of the masses of Asian Tourists) but there was a bus ride I had never tried, from Meiringen in the Hasli Valley to the North, to the pass called Grosse Scheidegg at the foot of Mount Wetterhorn (where the road continues to Grindelwald). This is not the usual way to get to the popular vacation town of Grindelwald (usually reached by train from Interlaken to the West) and the bus trip comes with a supplemental charge, even for holders of the Free Pass subscription like me...

My hike started at the Pass, took me to Grindelwald First cable car station (most tourists come up with this cable car from Grindelwald), then along a well-traveled wide road to the very popular Bachsee Lake, and then over a very interesting ridge to a steep descent on the Grindelwald side. I didn't walk all the way back to Grindelwald, but took another mountain bus (with another supplemental charge) from the little mountain restaurant called Waldspitz. My descent had already involved a steep 500 altitude meters, and to continue to the valley would have been another 900m, and that is just too much downhill! 

In all I walked a fabulous 13 km in five hours, and even though the sun disappeared as I got near the lake (and the wind was COLD!) I never tire of the Bernese peaks up close, especially the spectacular North Face of Mount Eiger. 
On the bus ride up from Meiringen to Grosse Scheidegg, this is the view looking North (the way we had come)
Shortly after getting off the bus, I went up a small hill and got this splending view into the Grindelwald Valley


At the start it was very cold, and my cold coffee didn't help much!
 
The low road was paved so I took the high road. First goal is Grindelwald First cable car station at the arrow on the picture
 (6 km, approx. 2 hours)
It was an easy, pleasant and sunny trail all the way to First, always with the Eiger North Face in sight.

The fabulous North Face of Mount Eiger (The white peak behind it is Mount Jungfrau)
Soon it got quite warm, and stayed that way till up at the Bachsee Lake. Then the clouds covered the sky.
 
At Grindelwald First there is a popular Zipline...

Since I took a shortcut below the ski lift station on the left, I didn't notice the cliff walk until I was up higher, and wasn't going back.
This will be an adventure for a different day!

Cliff walk and lookout platform at Grindelwald First. The sunny cauldron in the back used to be half-filled with glacier ice 30 years ago.
The road to the Bachsee is rather dull and stretches a boring 50 minutes, and is also a popular route for tourists who come up via cable car to Grindelwald First.
   

The Bachsee Lake is a popular tourist destination at all times of year. The road is even cleared in winter for winter walking, and you can pull a sled along to the saddle at the back (total 2.5-hours hiking time) to sled down the longest toboggan run in the world on the other side (15 km)
A popular view of the Bernese Alps from the Bachsee Lake
Interesting side note: I was here 30 years ago, and you can see the difference in the glacier ice below Mount Schreckhorn. 30 years ago it filled the cauldron, and there was even a glacier cave you could visit, which no longer exists.

 
From the Bachsee Lake I changed my original plan (which was to walk down the valley to Waldspitz) and climbed instead an easy 90m to a rocky formation on a ridge, and then steep down the other side. It took longer, but was much more exciting.
My original plan was to descend to Waldspitz through this moor landscape.
Instead I walked up a bit to pass through the gap left of the rocky tower, to descend steep on the other side.
   

It was a good decision to change plans. I had better views and more afternoon light.

Stunning rock formations on this side of the ridge. And silver thistles.

It was a steep but rewarding descent from the rock tower on the ridge above.

Beautiful landscape, even without the sunshine.

I passed an alpine pasture where it was evident that the cows had recently been here....

.... and then I saw them being herded along the road below to lower pastures. This is called an "Alpine Cattle Descent", although a small one and without the headdresses.

Last stretch through the forest to my destination.

The Waldspitz Restaurant was my destination for the day. There is a bus that runs up here a couple of times per day.

The sun came out for a last shine on the Upper Grindelwald Glacier.
 
This road was so narrow, the bus had to turn lower down and back up up the road to pick up the passengers.

On the bus ride down to Grindelwald, pretty fall colours and sunshine.

On the bus ride down to Grindelwald, pretty fall colours and sunshine.

Bus ride from Meiringen to Grosse Scheidegg, 13 km hike to Waldspitz, bus ride back down to Grindelwald.

Total 13 km and 5 hours to walk from Grosse Scheidegg to Grindelwald-Waldspitz