From Sörenberg to Kemmeribodenbad

May 21, 2017 -- As much as we always try to plan for a perfect hike based on weather maps and weather forecasts, we're not always so lucky. On Sunday (one week before this post) the weather was supposed to be sunny everywhere, including Central Switzerland on the section of the "Trans Swiss Trail" that we had planned to walk, albeit forecast had for light clouds in the morning, clearing in the afternoon.

So perhaps we simply left too early, as we ended up hiking with a very cold breeze (I wasn't dressed warmly enough) and disappointingly low clouds covering the mountains for more than half of our 11 km, 3-hour hike.

Other than this it was a very pleasant hike starting after an exciting bus trip on narrow winding roads to the popular winter vacation town called Sörenberg, then a surprisingly enjoyable uphill hike, followed by a large variety of landscapes from moor meadows to the steep hillsides of the Schrattenfluh mountain range, along the Emme River flowing through a gorge to Kemmeribodenbad, famous for its meringue deserts. (Of which we didn't partake THIS time (this is not our first time here) because it is a very popular place on a Sunday afternoon, and the restaurant grounds were packed....)  

Along the way the best surprise was a quaint little shop converted from a cellar room in a typical farmhouse, offering -- self-serve on the honesty principle -- a wide range of homemade preserves, jams, honey, teas, liqueurs, salts, syrups, pasta, cheeses, sausages, and even ointments and tinctures. This is a place I'd love to visit again, if one didn't have to walk an hour to get there!

** Interesting note: This area is called the Entlebuch, which was designated a Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO in 2001, and is nicknamed the "Wild West" of Lucerne.

Heading up the hill from Sörenberg, a popular winter ski area

The wind is blowing chilly on this upper moor landscape

Clouds sit low on the Brienzergrat (Brienz Ridge) which separates us from Interlaken to the South

Typical barn in this area

Ahead of us are the flanks of the ridge called the Schrattenfluh

Walking on this section of Trail No.2, "Trans Swiss Trail" from Sörenberg to Kemmeriboden Bad.

At the back, a prominent peak on the Schrattenfluh range (Böli)

We discovered this gem, a beautiful farmhouse with a "Self Serve" shop

Along the way, a "Hofladen" (Farmstead Shop), a renovated cellar room in the family home.

We often come across these "Self-Serve" farm product offerings, but this shop was particularly special.

For extra income, farmers often offer their homemade cheeses, sausages, preserves etc. in a shop on the property, or a fridge set up outside their barn, or as in this case, even a room in their home. All items are priced and you are expected to pay the amount into a cash box located nearby. It is all done on the honour system, which is strictly upheld here as most people are aware what a difficult life the mountain farmers have. Offerings in this shop included salts, syrups, liqueurs,  jams, pastas, meringues, teas, preserves, ointments and tinctures, besides the expected cheeses and sausages. They even provided a jug of water and small cups to sample the syrups before buying them (flavours such as "Red Clover" and "Primrose" and "Sage"). We left with "Bear Garlic Salt" and "Alpine Herb Syrup" and homemade caramels.

Heading West along the Schrattenfluh range on the right, and the Hohgant range ahead

To the South a view of the Brienzer Ridge.

Crossing the Emme River at Kemmeriboden Bad, with the Hohgant Range to the South.

The historical buildings at Kemmeriboden Bad, a popular tourist destination especially on a Sunday afternoon!

The specialty here is Meringues with icecream and whipped cream. People come from far and wide for this dessert.

The specialty here is Meringues with icecream and whipped cream. People come from far and wide for this dessert.

The old cheese house at Kemmeriboden Bad

Waiting for our bus at Kemmeriboden Bad

11 km (3.5 hours) through the Entlebuch Region (UNESCO Biosphere) near Lucerne

On the Appenzeller Alp Trail Below Mount Säntis

May 17, 2017 -- At 2500 m, Mount Säntis is the highest peak in the Alpstein massif in northeastern Switzerland, and a popular tourist destination especially for people from Southern Germany, as the massif is the landmark of the Lake Constance region, and the culminating point of the Appenzell Alps. From the Alp called Schwägalp at the base of the mountain, there is a cable car that one can take to the observation deck on Mount Säntis for spectacular views of six countries.

The 13-km hike we did this Wednesday (with a friend from work who also had the day off) started at the base station of the cable car, not going up to the summit but walking northwards to Mount Kronberg, and along that ridge and further North to the town of Urnäsch. Along the way we also had spectacular views, southwards to Mount Säntis and the entire Alpstein massif, and northwards across the lowlands to Lake Constance.

The hike took us five hours to do as there were a couple of steep uphill and downhill sections, but we could not have asked for a better day. 

Our 13-km hike in the Appenzell area of Switzerland involved 500m ascent and 1000m descent.

Heading toward Schwägalp on the bus, our hike starts below Mount Säntis, the highest peak in the Alpstein Massif.

Before starting on the hike, we stock up on locally-produced sausages and cheeses in the cheese factory.

A cable car gives access to the observatory on Mount Säntis. This is a popular tourist destination

Perfect day to hike the alpine meadows.

Our goal is the ridge ahead which we follow westward before heading North again.

After an hour's hike, there is a very steep hill ahead, and still another 3+ hours to our destination in Urnäsch.

Always great views Southward behind us. 

Views to the East

This is where we stopped for lunch.

On the left ist the ridge we are hiking along, on the right far reaching views northward toward Germany.

The first Gentians of the season

The stone marks the border between the Cantons of Appenzell Innerrhoden and Appenzell Ausserrhoden.

There is still snow remaining on northern slopes, at 1500m.

View North toward Germany, Lake Constance just barely visible in the background.

View East to Mount Kronberg

The entire hillside was full of little flowers

Ahead of us is the steep descent to that farmstead, then to the left toward Urnäsch

Here the trail crosses these roots. Never gets boring.

The Swiss Brown Cows also never get boring. 

In the background the hill that we descended.

Approaching Urnäsch

These figures at the Urnäsch train station represent the "Urnäsch Silvesterkläuse", a 200-year-old tradition practiced only in this village on December 31st and January 13th, celebrating New Year's Day from both the Julian and the Gregorian Calendars.