October 19, 2016

It's Raining Chestnuts in the Ticino -- Berzano to Auressio to Cresmino

Wednesday October 19, 2016 -- After our very reasonably-priced "home-cooked" meal at the Ristorante della Posta in Russo in the Onsernone Valley (photos HERE), we got back on the bus to the starting point of the hike we had mapped out for the day. 

Starting in the little village of Berzona, we walked up the hill to an open clearing with typical Rustici stone homes and fantastic views into two side valleys of the Onsernone Valley. It's to the back of one of these side valleys that we hiked, through neverending chestnut forests... and all around us it was raining chestnuts! I felt like the trees were aiming at us, spiny urchins which then spill those big fat shiny chestnuts, with which I filled my pockets and my backpack! (I will try roasting them at home).

Back out at mouth of the valley we crossed through the pretty village of Auressio to below the long and winding main road and walked the final 2.5 km along the old road far below the current one, amazingly created who knows how long ago by building up dirt and rock walls along the steep cliffs. We ended our hike at the bus stop on the main road in Cresmino.



Village of Berzona in the romantic Onsernone Valley

Village of Berzona in the romantic Onsernone Valley

Village of Berzona in the romantic Onsernone Valley

Village of Berzona in the romantic Onsernone Valley

Village of Berzona in the romantic Onsernone Valley

Village of Berzona in the romantic Onsernone Valley

Village of Berzona in the romantic Onsernone Valley

In the clearing called Sella we could see into three different valleys.

There was this random piece of art up here in the little cluster of stone homes. 

Each of these stone homes has its own character.

From here we head through chestnut forests on the left to the cluster of homes in the back (Mulegn)

Hiking through the chestnut forests we get great views into the Onsernone Valley.

Below and across the valley is a clearing that we will hike past on our way back out the valley.

We saw so many of these beautiful but poisonous Fly Amanitas in the forests here.

In the village of Mulegn was this structure with a stone vat that collected the ground water.

At the back of the valley, a side valley to the Onsernone Valley

Little cluster of homes at the back of the Valley (Mulegn).

In the back you can see the bell-tower of a village called Loco, along the main road. 

This clearing that we had seen from the other side of the valley was a meadow for sheep.

This clearing that we had seen from the other side of the valley was a meadow for sheep.

Zoomed view of the church at Loco, a town perched on the steep hill of the Onsernone Valley.

The trail passes above the village of Auressio. To get to the main road we had to descend steep stairways.

Descending through Auressio, more great views westward up the Onsernone Valley. 

At the church plaza in Auressio, Onsernone Valley.

Below the main road our trail continues along what used to be the main road here.

The old road below is now covered in grass, while the new road winds its way high above. 

At the end of our hike in Cresmino we got this great evening view into the Onsernone Valley. Auressio is the village most in the front, Loco further along, and the valley we hiked is in between.

Wonderful evening view NW into the Onsernone Valley

First we had lunch in Russo, then did a 10 km hike that took us about 3½ hours. (Berzona to Cresmino). 



Lunch in the Onsernone Valley (followed by a hike!)

Wednesday October 19, 2016 -- There's a relatively lesser-known valley in the Ticino called the Onsernone Valley, a wildly beautiful and steep forested valley with little villages clinging high up on the sunny mountain sides. It is infamous in that it has so many curves on the narrow road that it takes almost an hour to drive to the last village 20 km in the back of the valley. And the bus driver doesn't take it slow and easy! At full speed the bus weaves along the curves high above the valley bottom, and whips through the villages where the streets are barely wide enough for this kind of vehicle.... looking down through the bus window to the cars that attempt to pass us on the road, I think their drivers must be having mini heart attacks thinking the sides of their cars or at least their mirrors might be removed...

We had made a reservation to eat in a popular restaurant in Russo, about two-thirds to the back of the valley. As of the night before, the owners didn't know what was going to be on the menu. We found out when we got there: Salad, polenta, tender pork gulasch and coffee, for a price unheard of for Switzerland (15 Fr. or approx. $20 CAD). Before lunch we walked through the typical steep alleys of Russo, and after lunch we back-tracked a bit with the bus for our 4-hour hike...(photos of the hike are HERE).


Wild chestnut forests of the Onsernone Valley

Village of Russo, perched high on the steep mountain flank

Village of Russo, perched high on the steep mountain flank

Village of Russo, perched high on the steep mountain flank

Village of Russo, perched high on the steep mountain flank

Village of Russo, perched high on the steep mountain flank

Village of Russo, perched high on the steep mountain flank

Village of Russo, perched high on the steep mountain flank

This is the Post Restaurant, where we ate our very reasonably-priced lunch!

The board behind this one advertises the daily menu. But they apparently also have home made pasta!

Menu of the day: Polenta and Pork Gulasch, Salad and Coffee for 15 SFr.



View South across the steep valley from our table at the Ristorante della Posta in Russo.

I wasn't quite sure about this ....

Typical village church in the typical village of Russo, Valley Onsernone, Switzerland.

Some tight squeezes on this curvy and narrow road....

After lunch in Russo, we backtracked with the bus to start our 9-km hike in Berzano.


October 16, 2016

On the Pragelpass Trail from Lake Klöntal to Muotathal

October 16, 2016 – This is the last day of the year that the Post Buses make their runs to higher altitude lakes or over the mountain passes (to resume approx. May of the following year) so the route we picked for today's fantastic weather was the run to Lake Klöntalersee near Glarus. From the last bus stop at Richisau we walked over the pass called Pragel Pass to the Muota Valley, this time a long 5-hour hike and total of 17 kms.

At 1548m the Pragel Pass is not a high one, but it is closed the longest to vehicular traffic in winter, opening again only in May. The road is quite narrow and on weekends vehicles are not allowed up to the pass from the Eastern side. This pass has historic status due to the great Generalissimo Suvorov leading an army of 15,000 over the pass in 1799.

I did this same hike almost exactly 30 years ago with my Aunt Ruth, but nothing looked familiar except the stone chapel up at the pass. Which is where, as also 30 years ago, we had our picnic lunch. Only this time there was a little restaurant there where we could buy local cheese made on site, “Pragel Cheese”, one of the best cheeses I have yet tasted. 

17-km hike from Richisau near Lake Klöntal to Muotathal

The road to the Klöntalersee is too narrow for two passing buses. Above right is the valley we are entering.
From Glarus in one valley, the post bus drives up to Lake Klöntal and a bit further on to a hotel at Richisau. From there the bus and other large vehicles are no longer allowed on the pass road because it is very narrow and steep. To avoid lots of weekend traffic, this side of the pass road is closed to vehicular traffic altogether on weekends.

10 a.m. at Lake Klöntal, in deep shadow because of the steep mountains to the South.

Our hike starts at the Hotel Richisau, a few kms. West of Lake Klöntal.

Start of our hike westward toward the Pragel Pass. Time to walk to the pass is 2 hours.

Walking to the Pragel Pass

A look backwards (toward the East) shows how narrow and steep the road is, where no vehicles are allowed on weekends.

Getting close! Just a few more meters till we reach the pass.

Up at the pass the sign shows us that we still have over 3 hours to walk to Muotathal, having already walked 2 hours.


Lunch time at the stone chapel, a familiar landmark of the Pragel Pass. The local cheese made up here is the best I've ever had. 


Lunch time at the stone chapel, a familiar landmark at the Pragel Pass

Heading downhill now from the pass westward.


Meadows have been prepared with pig manure... no rest here!

We get a glimpse of the valley bottom (Muotathal) which is our destination.


There was this fabulous well-laid trail through a rock-slide terrain, about 1 km long, that made walking pure joy!


Last stretch before reaching the valley bottom in Muotathal

Near Muotathal, Switzerland

The Franciscan Cloister of Muotathal boasts having accommodated General Suvarov on his retreat through the Alps. 

Bridge over the Muota River (Tributary of Lake Lucerne) in Muotathal, Switzerland. 

We select our hikes for their accessibility to public transportation.(And Distance and Altitude).