July 9, 2016

From Stels to St.Antönien via the High Moors in the Prättigau

Saturday July 9, 2016 -- The hills in the Prättigau region of Switzerland (near the border to Austria) are full of soft moor (peat bog) landscapes including a very pretty lake called the Stelsersee (left-over from glacial retreat) which, according to the owners of the wonderful country inn where we overnighted, is the highest located water-lily lake in Europe.

We had never before hiked in this region and wanted to see the peat-bog landscape, but unfortunately we had all kinds of not-so-ideal conditions for this weekend which had promised sunny weather with few clouds. First a canceled train made us have to rethink our weekend plan, then thick clouds and heavy humid air filled with horseflies greeted our arrival, and our trail was muddy and wet, most likely due to the rain that never gives the land a chance to dry out.

But the little water-lily lake was pretty, and the walk through the moors (total 10km) was interesting just the same, and the clouds finally lifted at the end of the day when we had to catch the bus back to the hotel/Gasthaus. The hotel was the most successful part of the day: comfortable and quiet and right next to the railway line.

Oh, and the van-bus rides up into these hills is always the best experience in themselves! I am always fascinated how the vehicles maneuver to get past each other on the tightly winding roads, only wide enough for one vehicle!


First a great winding bus ride to Gasthaus Mottis, then a 10km hike that took us 4 hours.

On the way up to our starting point by Van-Bus on the narrow single-lane winding roads

Before starting the hike, we ate a great home-cooked meal at the Gasthaus Mottis in Stels.

The trail from Mottis to the Peat Bog Lake was very wet and muddy but lush with vegetation.

The trail from Mottis to the Peat Bog Lake was very wet and muddy but lush with vegetation.

The little Peat Bog Lake (Stelsersee) with its lovely water lilies was pretty despite the humid weather.

According to our Hotel Owners, this is the highest Water-Lily pond in Europe.

The Stelsersee Water-Lily Pond is a left-over from glacier melt.

From the waterlily pond, we have another big uphill hike to do.

From the waterlily pond, we have another big uphill hike to do.

Reaching the highest point of our hike means we need to celebrate with a Selfie.

The trail through the high-altitude bogs is well-prepared for walking and protection of the landscape.
The high-altitude peat bogs have their own unique flora and bushy grasses (I'm not sitting, it's too wet)

Heading down to our destination of St.Antönien from where we will catch the bus to the valley for an overnight in this area.

Our destination: St.Antönien from where we will catch the bus to the valley for an overnight in this area.

The clouds have finally lifted and we have the promised blue skies as we descend by bus AFTER the hike!

Our hotel (Gasthof Sommerfeld) was a good experience at least. Quiet and nice location near the railway line.

This guy was at least 5 cm long (Stag Beetle).

July 6, 2016

From Lake Schwarzsee to La Valsainte Monastery

I've been many places in Switzerland, but this was my first visit to Gruyère Country! 

We chose a suggested hike from the lake called Schwarzsee, a trail that required an ascent of 600m into some beautiful meadows, and a descent through the Charmey Valley to Switzerland's only remaining active Carthusian Monastery, founded in 1295. (There are currently only 12 Patres and 15 Brothers living here). The 14-km hike offered us some fantastic vistas once again, and the opportunity to purchase cheese produced at one of the mountain farms. 

Walking through the meadows here was a bit hard, because the official trails are not separated from where the cows graze, so when the ground is soft and wet as it's been all spring, the cows quite destroy the meadows and walking becomes difficult.

The Carthusian Order of Monks is an interesting one. They live in a community but each person has his own cell and garden and they live solitary lives within the community. They do not take a vow of silence, but most of their time is spent in silence and solitude. They meet for masses and once a week they do a 4-hour nature walk where they can get to know each other. The monastery cannot be visited, but as we sat in their courtyard waiting for our bus, one of the Brothers came out to give me a beautiful book/brochure which described their lifestyle. It is a special book that I will hold on to.

More information about the Carthusian Order: http://www.chartreux.org/en/carthusian-way.php


Lake Schwarzsee, the start of our hike.

As we ascend, this is the view back toward Lake Schwarzsee.
Heading to the Mountain Farm to buy cheese made on site.
                                 
This cheese made on site is called "Mutschli". It is a good cheese for melting (like for Raclette).
                                 
Heading up from the farm to the highest point of our hike where we will have lunch (fresh cheese!)

Heading up from the farm to the highest point of our hike where we will have lunch (fresh cheese!)
                                 
View of the Charmey Valley in Canton Fribourg.

Add caption

Our picnic spot is perfect: View of the valley and company of the cows.

Our picnic spot is perfect: View of the valley and company of the cows
Alpine Meadows

Alpine Meadows

Ah so very cute!

Heading down the Charmey Valley.

Heading down the Charmey Valley.

At the Valsainte Monastery, founded in 1295


At the Valsainte Monastery, founded in 1295
At the Valsainte Monastery, founded in 1295

Fotos from the Brochure that was gifted to me by one of the Carthusian Monks.
Our 14-km hike from Lake Schwarzsee to La Valsainte Monastery (took just over 4 hours)
We were the only passengers to get a ride out of the valley.

Chateau de Gruyère, from the bus back to Bulle.


Our train from Bulle was canceled, so we got to visit this town for an hour.





July 3, 2016

Walk through the Twannbach Gorge

July 3, 2016 -- We’ve been reading up on hiking options in the various ravines and gorges in Switzerland. Weather in the mountains is still erratic, so we chose something more moderate in the Western Part of Switzerland, and also only two hours to travel from home so we could sleep in a bit this Sunday morning.

The Twannbach Gorge on Lake Biel is a popular one (especially on Sundays!) because it is an easy 30-minute walk from the top to the lake, and to get there is a pleasant walk through a wooded trail after a funicular ride from the city of Biel. In total, an 11-km walk that takes about 3 hours.


The gorge is full of waterfalls and waters slides, lush vegetation, cool air, with an interesting pedestrian walkway hewn out of the Jura Limestone. You emerge above the little vineyard town of Twann (most of the area here are vineyards) and from here you can take a boat ride on Lake Biel to admire the coastline.
Our tour starts at the base station of the Magglingen / Macolin Funicular

Magglingen / Macolin Funicular (ascends 450 m)

View of Lake Biel from Magglingen

Walking to the Twannbach Gorge

CHICKENS!

Lunch Time before heading into the Twannbach Gorge

In the Twannbach Gorge

In the Twannbach Gorge

In the Twannbach Gorge

In the Twannbach Gorge

After emerging from the Gorge you have a view over the town of Twann and the Vineyards on Lake Biel

Our boat back to Biel

View of Twann from Lake Biel

3-hour, 11 km hike from Magglingen to Twann through the Twannbach Gorge.