Clavau Irrigation Channel in the Vineyards near Sion

(Post published on March 31, 2024)

Saturday March 12, 2016 -- It doesn’t always have to be green to be remarkable as we found out in this, our second hike in the miles and miles of vineyards in the Rhône Valley near Lake Geneva. 

Last year in fall we were in the Terraces of the Lavaux among a sea of yellows, and this time it was all brown but stunning just the same with the snow-capped Alps in the background, and the impressive dry-stone walls forming terraces as far as the eye can see. Our 2-hour walk along Trail no.36: "Chemin du Vignoble" (Vineyard Trail) and the terraces here took us from the village of St. Leonard up to the the Clavau irrigation Channel and toward the city of Sion with its ruins of the Chateau Tourbillon on a prominent hill always in our sights. After reaching Sion, we spent another couple of hours visiting the city and the ruins, as well as the fabulous Valère Basilica, the city's main landmark (built in 12th and 13th Centuries).  

There are over 50 varieties of grapes planted here, some of them the only place in the world where they are grown. The terraces are extraordinary, as all the walls are dry stone (no mortar), and at one point the 16m high wall boasts to be the highest dry-stone wall in the world. 

There was one small disappointment for me: I always photograph the information panels, but rarely read them on the spot (only after, when I do my blog entries) and this time missed a unique feature of the Basilica: A 15th Century organ which is the oldest organ in the world which can still be played. (It was so small that I didn't even notice it!)

From the train station in St.Léonard, we first had to make our way through the town and up the hill to reach the Clavau irrigation channel. We started at about noon. 

Heading uphill through the streets of St.Léonard

I always enjoy these interesting gargoyle rain spouts!

The town has some very attractive retaining walls. 

A look back across the roofs of St.Léonard and the Rhône Valley

In all we walked about 3½ hours although the section along Trail no.36: "Chemin du Vignoble" (Vineyard Trail) was only about two hours.  

Through this ravine flows the Liène River from Lac de Tseuzier, to enter the Rhône River at St.Léonard. 

A look back at St.Léonard as we reach the irrigation channel trail. 

A zoomed view of the church in St.Léonard

Looking down the steep vineyard into the ravine of La Liène river. 

Many looks behind us eastward as we head westward. 

It is always a pleasure to walk along the irrigation channels, particularly when the water is flowing!

Far in the distance to the west we can already see the prominent hill of Sion city with the ruins of the Tourbillon Chateau. 

The snow-covered peaks looming behind the terraces are simply magnificent

Every possible space is used for growing the vines!

Vineyards as far as the eye can see!

Coffee break. Below is the Rhône River. 

To build these terraces, the vintners first shaved off the cliff faces, used the larger rocks as base for the walls, and the smaller rocks were piled meters high. Then the space between the walls and the cliff face was filled with rocks and fertile soil.

Exceptional work to create these terraces. Also a good view of the Tourbillon Castle Ruins. 

These vineyards "Vignoble de la Cotsetta" ("Little Lost Corner") cover 3 hectares and include 3 hectares of dry stone walls built between 1890 and 1900, some as high as 16 m. The spot on the photo with the arrow claims to be the highest dry-stone wall in the world!

The House of Robert Gilliard has been looking after the upkeep of all of these walls, as they are a cultural heritage.

Approaching the city of Sion (or Sitten, which is its German name). 

Looking directly south now at the ruins of Chateau Tourbillon annd we are getting the first glimpse of the Notre Dame Basilica. 

A reminder that this is wine country!

A look at the ruins from below as we enter the city of Sion

That is both a Chateau and a Basilica. It is known as Valère. It is considered a fortified church, although the walls encompass a small village as well. 

Other interesting buildings in the city of Sion

Churches in Old Town Sion

Making our way through the city of Sion so we can climb up to the Chateau de Valère. 

Heading up the Valère Basilica

On the trail up to the church at the Chateau de Valère we now see the Tourbillon castle ruins from the south. 

I photographed the information panel to read up on the history later, but should have paid more attention, as they mentioned the unique organ, the oldest playable organ in the world! I didn't even notice it when we were in the church. 

Inside the 12th-Century romanesque Notre Dame Church at Valère. 

Details of the inside of the church (The photo of the organ is by Berra39 in WikiCommons). The famous organ was installed in the 1430's, and is the oldest original still playable organ in the world. 

A close look at the ruins of Chateau Tourbillon, where we are headed next (we had to walk back a bit, then up on the other hill)

Heading back down this first hill, we pass the "Chapelle de Tout-les-Saints", built in 1325, and restored in 1964

From the other hill (where the Tourbillon Castle ruins are), this is the view to the Valère Basilica (and the little "All-Saints" chapel on the left).  

Sitting on the old rampart walls of the Tourbillon Castle. 

Some history of Chateau de Tourbillon: Start of construction was approx. in the year 1300. The castle was set on fire and torn down in 1417, but rebuilt in the same Century, and kept its appearance till the 18th Century. Another fire in 1788, which destroyed about 1/3rd of the city of Sion, also destroyed the castle, which was never rebuilt.

View north across to the Clavau irrigation channel and the vineyards which we had walked through to get here. 

The walls of Chateau de Tourbillon. 

Heading back down into the city of Sion, where we walked around a bit before heading to the train station. 

Old Town Sion. We finished our walk here at about 5 p.m. The trip home by train from here takes about 3 hours 20 minutes. 

What our walk looks like on Google Satellite Maps. 

Location of Sion in Switzerland

Winter Walk on Mount Flumserberg to Seebenalp

 (This post published on December 12, 2023)

Wednesday March 9, 2016 -- On March 8th it snowed quite heavily here in Switzerland, even down to the lowlands where we got about 10 cm. In the mountains they finally had a really nice dump, and for those who could take the next day off to go skiing, it was a great day with lots of sunshine and fewer people on the hills. 

The mountain we chose to go up this time was the Flumserberg, in Eastern Switzerland not far from the border of Liechtenstein, and on the other side of Lake Walensee from Quinten, the little village accessible only by boat. Flumserberg is a popular ski mountain with many lifts, but also several walking trails. There was a bit of an icy wind blowing, but the snow was good for walking, and except for a few spots on the shady side of the hill, we had sunshine and some nice views over the lake and the Churfirsten Mountains. When we arrived at our destination at Lake Grosssee, we had lunch at the Seebenalp restaurant and then enjoyed some basking in the sun and watching the skiers. I even got a bit of colour in my face from the strong mountain sun! 

It wasn’t a long hike as our hikes go, only 4 km each way, 2.5 hours of walking altogether. But this is long for walking on winter trails, as walking in snow, even if on prepared trails, is more strenuous...

Every excursion begins with a memorable trip to the start of our planned hike. Heading toward Lake Walensee, we always pass the "entrance" to the Linth Valley, a beautiful view every time. 

The train stops in Walenstadt. These are the peaks of the Churfirsten Mountains

A view westward over the rooftops of Unterterzen and Lake Walensee as the gondola cable-car makes its way up to Tannenbodenalp, the popular little ski resort on Mount Flumserberg. 

This is the Flumserberg gondola from Unterterzen in the valley to Tannenbodenalp, the ski village where the ski lifts start.

We got to Tannenbodenalp at 9:50, and reached the restaurant at Seebenalp at noon. With lunch there and some relaxing time, we headed back at about 2 p.m., and were back in Tannenbodenalp at 3:40 p.m. 

A fantastic day and well-prepared walking trails. From the peaks of the mountains to the East you can see that the wind is really blowing there. 

This view is to the Alvier mountain range in the East, the high plateau of Palfries, and in particular a peak called Mount Sichelchamm which even now in winter demonstrates the curved striations indicative of the folding of the Earth's crust when the mountains were formed. 

This view is to the north and northwest across Lake Walensee, and to Unterterzen on the lake where we started with the cable-way. 

There is nothing prettier in winter than freshly-fallen snow on the evergreens

This "fellow" is almost totally buried in the snow. 

We are enjoying the well-prepared walking trails!

Look how much it snowed here!

Heading to the lake we had to walk along the north side of the hillside, where there was shadow and it was cold

Panorama view of Lake Walensee and the Churfirsten mountains. 

It is a pleasure to walk on the prepared mountain trails, away from the ski hills!

The sign points us in the direction of the Seebenalp Hotel and restaurant

Our first glimpse now of the ski slopes at Lake Grosssee (= Large Lake). I believe that peak is called Sächsmoor. 

Hotel-Restaurant Seebenalp, where you can take a break from skiing for a bite to eat. The frozen lake is on the left. We got here at about noon and had something to eat. 

Relaxing and watching the skiers on the other side of the lake

Relaxing and watching the skiers on the other side of the lake, and enjoying the sunshine at the Seebenalp restaurant. The lake is called Grosssee (= Large Lake). There are two other lakes here. [NOTE: Later, in June 2022, we did a hike around Mt.Sächsmoor, the peak in the center. Photos are HERE)

At about 2 p.m. we started on our way back. 

It's a happy day!

Another look down at Lake Walensee, on our way back to Tannenbodenalp. 

We shared the walking trail with a few skiiers

Chair lifts and gondolas

And now another close-up look at the Alps to the east. I think these are the mountains that form the border with Liechtenstein (Falknis?). 

The late afternoon sunshine

Very clever, a Toblerone-shaped roof!

Heading back down now to the lake at 4 p.m. for the train ride home. 

What the hike looks like on Google Satellite Maps. 

Additional photos: On our way back home, traveling along Lake Zurich, we had to wait for a connecting train, so we spent about 20 minutes at the lakeshore in Wädenswil, watching the waterbirds...

In Wädenswil, on the western shore of Lake Zurich

Someone was feeding them, that's why the chaos!

This one with the "punk" hairdo always makes me laugh. 

And the grebes are always so elegant.