From Amden to Quinten along the Walsa Trail: Highlight Seerenbach Falls

Monday December 18, 2023 -- There is still "pure" sunshine in the forecast for all over the country, but no delusions, this means mostly above the snow-line, i.e. above the fog. Wanting to take advantage of the sunshine but not wanting to walk in the higher elevations (I am not keen on winter hikes, unless there is sunshine AND snow on the trees as well as the prepared trails.... not half-half), it is tricky to figure out exactly where one can do a decent 10-km hike (which I am now doing on my own again) without slogging through snow or descending into fog.

As the area around Lake Walen (Walensee) in the eastern part of Switzerland is often free of fog, and there is an actual mountain trail on the north side of the lake at the foot of the Churfirsten mountains–a flank that receives a lot of sunshine–I decided to do a hike we've done twice before, although variations thereof. A unique "attraction" here, whether you start or end there, is a tiny village called Quinten about halfway along the lake, which is only accessible on foot or by boat. (The microclimate here is ideal for growing grapes and silkworms!)

The main highlight, though, are the Seerenbach Waterfalls, a set of three waterfalls which drop 585 meters from the vertical cliffs, and whose middle section is the second-highest free-fall waterfall in Switzerland, next to the one in Lauterbrunnen. This is also one of the highest free-falling waterfalls in the world.  

This time I started higher up the mountain in a sunny village called Amden where the trail was JUST snow-free, and walked down to join the trail above and parallel to the lake, which was mostly a forest trail. Unfortunately I started an hour too late, and got to Quinten after my 3-hour hike just as the sun disappeared behind the mountains at 3 p.m.! But I still had lots of sunshine on this almost shortest day of the year. 

View into the Linth Valley on the bus ride up to Amden from the train station in Ziegelbrücke. Ziegelbrücke (on the plain off the photo on the right) is at the junction of these two valleys, and most of the time, that is where the fog to the north ends, leaving the Linth Valley and Lake Walensee free of fog. 

At the center of Amden, my plan is to walk to Quinten. Three hours is a long hike to do alone, and also I started an hour too late. It's now 11:30, and I needed to be in Quinten by 3 p.m. for the boat to the other side of the lake. So that left me a margin of only 30 minutes. 

This first section along the hillside below Amden is one I have not walked before. There was no snow on the trail, but when there is a lot of snow, this particular stretch is prepared as a walking trail anyway. 

The trail from Amden to Quinten (plus the boat ride) is Stage 4 of the regional trail called the "Walsa Trail". Till now, we've only ever done this section, three times! (Well, the lower part, the other two times). 

The view westward to the Linth Valley

Trying to find a few good places for self-timed photos (with a tripod) because Urs isn't along to take photos of me!

At the very west end of Lake Walensee is a community called Weesen (visible in this photo). Further to the right behind the mountain is Ziegelbrücke. When I caught the bus there 45 minutes earlier, there was no fog. It's just starting to drift into the Linth Valley. 

Looking up the hillside above the village of Amden to the mountain called Mattstock, where we did a fabulous hike earlier this year. (Those photos are HERE)

This trail would be more difficult to do if there was snow!

Heading down the mountain to the forest trail

I started in Amden at about 11:20, and still made it to Quinten before 3 p.m., even though I took a detour to the Seerenbach Falls, and had a 10-minute lunch break along the way!

A look down at the lake (Walensee). The hillside on the south side of the lake doesn't get a lot of sunshine at this time of year. 

Reaching Betlis at 12:20, an hour after I started on my walk. This sunny region about 100 meters above lake level features farms, a few houses, a couple of restaurants, a fortress ruins, and also has a boat dock where the boat runs in summer. The micro-climate here is like in the Mediterranean. Until about the year 1900, Betlis was also only reacheable on foot or by boat, but now there is a road westward to Weesen. 

Here is one of the restaurants, and a barn where I saw the funniest sight....

At the door of the barn, it looks like "mom and dad" have sent three of their children into a "time-out" to think about their bad behaviour!

The road continues toward the chapel and the waterfall (which you can see in the center, dropping down the vertical mountain face). After that there is no road access any more. By now I've had to shed my coat AND sweater!

A close look at the upper two sections of the Seerenbach waterfall. The lower of the two is the middle of the three waterfalls, and considered the second highest waterfall in Switzerland with a free-fall of over 300 meters. (There is some discrepancy as to whether it's the highest or second-highest). 

One of a few residences on this sunny hillside. This person likes to carve tree trunks!

Several carved faces on this property. I liked the one who is wearing the lost hat and sunglasses!

Another look across the lake, where all the communities get very little sunshine in winter! (Maybe early in the morning?)

The little chapel in Vorderbetlis, built in 1889 (it was locked, I checked). 

From the little chapel, you get the best look at the waterfalls. These are the lower two of the three falls. The upper one would be about 300 meters free-fall (doesn't look like it!) and the lower one about 190 meters. Altogether, the system of three waterfalls is about 600 meters high!

There is a litle detour trail that takes you closer to the bottom of the lower falls. (Only a 40-meter ascent from the main trail). I'm headed there now. 

Homemade ointments for sale....

At the observation platform in front of the waterfalls, this placard describes the large subterranean river system inside the mountain, one of the largest in Europe (at least 3 km long, then the water just disappears!). When there is a lot of water (as there was this day), the basin overflows and creates a fourth waterfall which exits the mountain next to the main falls. At its maximum, 30 m3/s of water fall the 45 meters into the gorge. 

On the left is the lowest section of the Seerenbach falles (190 meters drop), and on the right is the overflow from the basin called the Rinquelle, part of an extensive river system inside the mountain! (When the water levels are very high, up to 30 m3/s of water leave this cave!)

VIDEO:

The spectacular Seerenbach waterfall, and the one from the Rinquelle overflow basin, dropping into the Seerenbach gorge!

This is the third time I've been here, 

but this is the most water I've had the pleasure to observe.

The water flows down the gorge and into the lake

Back down on the main trail after the detour to the falls, it's now 1 p.m, and I have just under two hours to get to Quinten for the 3 p.m. ferry boat! So now it's a margin of only 10 minutes!

Further along the path, more waterfalls! (I don't usually take phone calls when I hike, but I was expecting someone to call me back, and it was right when I was doing this self-timed photo!)

Another residence along the way!

Here's where I had a 10-minute picnic break, finished at 2 p.m. and ready to go! From here the rest of the way takes an hour, so I had to walk quickly. 

Always a peek at the lake in between the trees. 

From the waterfalls to the picnic area, the trail was like this, uphill, and kind of boring, but at least I had lots of sunshine! After this, the downhill section into Quinten was more interesting. Also, mountain bikes are not welcome here. (The ferry won't transport them).

The interesting section along the cliffs with a narrow and rocky trail, but secured with cables. 

Another view of the lake

The Mediterranean micro-climate here allows for palm trees to thrive, as well as kiwi, figs, and obviously grapes... 

Last time we were here we learned that these are mulberry trees used as hosts for breeding silk-worms

14:40 and the sun is setting, 10 minutes before I got to Quinten. 

I arrived in Quinten at 14:40... this is a look behind me at the mountainside where I walked, and which is now quickly shrouded in shadow.

Looking over the roofs and vineyards of Quinten, a small village about halfway along Lake Walensee, and only accessible on foot or by boat. The boat ferries between here and the town of Murg on the south side of the lake. 

St.Bernard's Chapel, built in 1765. Every village has a church or chapel!

This house called Hasli-Egg is at least 150 years old and was renovated in 2017. It belongs to the community and is used as a vacation residence. It was only in 1926 that they had running water in the house! It's under monument protection. 

A look at the houses of Quinten as I wait on the dock at 2:55 p.m. (The boat is expected at 3 p.m. I'm glad I made it for the 3 p.m. boat, as the next one comes only an hour later, and it was cold waiting in the shade!)

Here's the boat arriving a bit late, it's after 3 p.m. now! It made one stop a bit further up the lakeside at Au. 

This is the tiny boat that ferried us across the lake! There were about 10 of us who boarded here. The crossing costs 8.40 Fr. (about $10 US/ or $13 CAD)

A look to the west. I walked along that mountainside! And the fog is now rolling in. 

Heading away from Quinten and its vineyards! There are actually three restaurants there, two are closed for the winter season, and the third only operates Friday to Sunday, so I would not even have been able to sit inside and drink coffee!

Across the lake at the arrow is Quinten

Docking in Murg on the south side of Lake Walensee at 3:12 p.m. The fog is moving in, but Amden, where I started, still has sunshine!

What the hike looks like on Google Satellite Maps, starting at Amden and ending in Murg after a boat ride from Quinten (the only way to get back to the train, other than walking another 10 km to the east side of the lake!)

These are all the hikes we have done to date around Lake Walensee and the Churfirsten mountains. 

Back in November 2018 was the second time we walked on this trail, in the same direction as I did this time, but starting lower down the mountain. As we still had daylight (although not a lot of sunshine) at the time, and got a better look at the village of Quinten, I am adding a couple of photos here. The other photos can be viewed HERE.

Approaching Quinten from the upper trail (I took the lower one this time, headed directly to the church). 

View of Quinten from the East looking back, along the trail that continues past the village along the rest of the lake

The first time we walked this trail in 2015, we walked in the opposite direction, starting with a boat ride from Murg to Quinten. This is what Quinten on Lake Walensee looks like in summer. The rest of the photos of that hike are HERE

In late winter 2016 we did a winter hike on Mount Flumserberg on the south side of Lake Walen (Walensee) and this is the view of the north side of the lake. The red line shows approximately where I walked this day. 

Location of Lake Walensee, Amden and Quinten in Switzerland. 

Description of Regional Trail no.68: Walsaweg (Walsa Trail)