Switzerland's St. James Trail from St.Peterzell to Wattwil

Tuesday December 19, 2023 -- The final day of four days in a row with sunshine in the forecast before another rainy spell, so I wanted to take advantage of another long snow-free hike in the sunshine, even though I did have sore legs from Monday's hike.

As it turns out, more regions closer to home were finally fog-free, but to play it safe, I headed back to the Toggenburg region where we had been two days earlier, knowing for sure I'd have plenty of sunshine there.

The Swiss version of the popular "Camino di Santiago", known here as Via Jakobi or the "St.James Trail", passes through the country from the top northeastern region down to Geneva in the southwest, and here in the Toggenburg we had done a lovely 14-kilometer stretch from Herisau to St.Peterzell back in October of 2021 (photos HERE). As we don't like to walk this particular trail in summer (a lot of it is on wide roads, paved or otherwise), at this time of year it is a perfect itinerary. Thus I decided to start where we had ended last time (in St.Peterzell) and continue along the next 10 kilometers westward, ending in Wattwil on the Thur River.

It was a perfect choice for this day: Warm and mild (no jacket required!), clear views of Mount Säntis and the Churfirsten mountains to the south and even Mounts Rigi and Pilatus to the east, only a couple of short stretches on some north flanks or ravines (where it was cold), and even several sections through pastures (albeit on frozen ground) to make it interesting! Maybe we'll have another opportunity this winter to continue on this trail getting closer to Lake Zurich...

And by the time I was already on my way home by 2 p.m., the fog had lifted everywhere and I could really enjoy lake and mountain views on the 90-minute ride home. 

I got to St.Peterzell at 10:20, and the first stop was to look inside the town church, obviously. (The St. James trail passes through many towns with historically relevant Catholic religious sites. St. Peterzell was named for a small Benedictine Monastery which was founded here in the 12th Century, and inhabited by monks till 1805). 

The altar inside the church

And the pretty organ in the back of the church. 

VIDEO:

Someone was just practicing on the organ as I looked around the inside of the church:

Houses in St.Peterzell

Ready to start my hike to Wattwil at 10:25

It was a lovely 10-km walk along the St.James Trail no.4 from St.Peterzell to Wattwil, and not at all difficult. 

A look behind me at St.Peterzell as I start up the first hill, heading westward. 

As I started up the first hill, I came across this absolutely fabulous house. It has a name, it's called "Haus zum Bädli", and was built at the turn of the 17th to 18th Century. The house used to contain the town baths.

There are 77 panels with the ornament motifs, all very similar and yet each panel is unique. They call it a rococo style.  

On the north side of the hillside is still quite a bit of frost in the grass, but where I am headed is lots of sunshine. 

My first glimpse of the summit of Mount Säntis in the distance to the south (zoomed view). 

At the bench up ahead I already had to take off my jacket and sweater, and set up my tripod for a self-timed photo. 

An information panel tells about the St.James Trail (Jakobsweg), a trail traveled by pilgrims across Europe since the 10th Century, ending in Spain at the grave of "St.James the Elder" in Santiago di Compostela. This here is an alternate trail through Switzerland, leading from Rorschach via St.Gallen, Herisau, St.Peterzell, Wattwil to Einsiedeln. 

My self-timed photo with St.Peterzell in the background! The previous stretch we had done had us descending from the hill at the back. 

Along the way is a tiny hamlet called Hofstetten. A small panel informs us that local carpenters built these houses between 1622 and 1684. Pilgrims along the St.James Trail were given accommodation here. 

There are lots of farm houses along the way

The posters in this person's window are from an advertisement for Appenzell Cheese. The mountain farmers will not reveal the secret recipe for Appenzell cheese. 

Some cute animals along the way. I had to help the goat though, someone had tied it to a fire hydrant, and it had totally tangled itself up from walking around the hydrant and it was bleating quite loudly in distress. (It's a long story). I could not release it, but did untangle it. It didn't take long for the poor animal to tangle itself up again. 

Another look to Mount Säntis to the southeast. The steeple is from a church in the community of Hemberg, which was one mountain crest further to the south. It would be good to walk there one day, then one can see the Alpstein massif more directly. 

Further along and looking back again, I can see much more of the Alpstein Massif, as well as the summit of Mount Kronberg just in front of Mount Säntis. 

Twice I had to descend and pass through a couple of small ravines, and there it was quite cold. 

Another zoomed view to Mount Säntis. 

At noon I was at about the half-way point of my hike at Heiterswil. Another 90 minutes or so to Wattwil. 

Even though this is in Canton St.Gallen, it is close to the Appenzell border. This sign claims the milk from this farm is used to make the famous Appenzell cheese. 

Here I am sitting on a bench, eating my lunch and enjoying the lovely view. 

At 12:30 I got to the highest point of my hike at the Churfirsten hotel, which was closed this day. 

View down to Lake Zurich to the west now, where I can see fog on the lake still. In the background on the right you can see all the way to Mount Rigi and Mount Pilatus. 

A close-up view of Mount Rigi and Mount Pilatus. 

Up ahead is a fence that will make a perfect spot for my tripod for a self-timed photo!

Another self-timed photo with a fantastic background of Mounts Kronberg and Säntis and the lovely Alpstein Massif!

Starting to head downhill on the last section toward Wattwil

Passing several farmsteads on my way down the hill. 

The rolling hills of the Toggenburg region

I had to walk right past this farmhouse

I love the unique details on decorated farmhouses

One of the few sections where I had to walk across frost-covered grass. Going downhill was a bit difficult. 

A tasteful Nativity scene

My first view of the city of Wattwil, the end of my hike 

Wattwil has a castle ruins on a hill on the west side of the city. I might have had time to walk up there after reaching the train station, but by the time I got back, it would have been end-of-day rush hour with many more people on the train (and also dusk over the city). 

There is also a former monastery here. It was founded over 400 years ago. It no longer operates as a monastery, though (since 2012). 

From the platform at the Wattwil train station at 2 p.m., I get a look at the summits of the Churfirsten mountain range. 

What the 10-km stretch of the St.James trail looks like on Google Satellite Maps. In 2021 we walk the adjoining section from Waldstatt to St.Peterzell (those photos HERE)

Location of Wattwil in Switzerland. 

By the time the train passed through the Ricken Tunnel from the Toggenburg back to the level of Lake Zurich, the fog had lifted and I had a wonderful 90-minute train ride home with superb views of the Glarus Alps and Lake Zurich. It was only in Zug itself where there was still some remnant of fog. The following photos are from the train ride home. 

Exiting the tunnel at Kaltbrunn, you get a look down the Linth Valley and the Glarus Alps. 

The plain of the Linth Canal whose waters flows into the Obersee (upper part of Lake Zurich)

Coming into view is the Mürtschenstock, a massif in the UNESCO Sardona Tectonic Arena. 

The castle at Rapperswil

The boardwalk across Lake Obersee from Rapperswil. 

Crossing the land bridge between Obersee and Lake Zurich, those buildings are on a small island called Ufenau in Lake Zurich.

Heading along Lake Zurich, always with a look south to the Glarus Alps. 

In the city of Thalwil where I have to change trains to head south again to Zug, this is the view from the overpass at the train station. This is a zoomed view of the Glärnisch Massif. (The Linth Valley is on the far side of this range). 

A final view of the Glarus Alps past Lake Zurich

Between Baar and our city of Zug is this interesting fogbank. The summit of Mount Zug emerges from the fog.