Sunday October 24, 2021 -- Sunday was as beautiful as Saturday, a cloudless day but not as cold.
Mid- to end of October, most Postbuses stop running to the mountain passes or to the back of remote valleys, and this Sunday was the last run to the back of the Suld Valley, a wild valley near Spiez on Lake Thun in the Bernese Oberland. We had heard of some "mighty" falls (Pochtenfälle) at the back of the Suld Valley, and had often spoken of going there. Usually the buses to the falls are packed full, but this late in the season, the back of the valley with its attractive restaurant is in full shade of the mountains, and therefore only frequented by die-hards like us.
We decided on an ascent past the falls into the upper alpine pastures, to a mountain hostel called Brunnihütte which faces the Northern Valley of the Brienzer Rothorn Ridge, and then returning via the sunny ridge to the wide open area at the foot of Mt.Niesen and the entrance of the Kander Valley, offering us incomparable views to the north of both Lakes Thun and Brienz and the city of Interlaken in between, Mt. Niesen always ahead of us, and the wide open Kander Valley to the south.
It was a hefty ascent, 650m steep uphill, taking us over two hours to reach the hostel, but at least half the time we were in the morning shadow, so it really seemed to go quickly. The back of the upper valley was sensational, and the trail would have continued over a pass called Renggi Pass into the next valley to the East. We were itching to continue up and over, but we expected the descent on the North side would be icy and slippery, and so this will be a hike for another summer. As it was, even on the way to the hostel we had a section of icy trail that was difficult to navigate...
An additional note of interest: Whereas in the previous couple of weeks I had been in the Emmental, and then in the Appenzell, each of which has very distinctive styles of buildings, once again we were able to admire another different style of building: In these parts of the Bernese Oberland, the houses are a nice variety of chalets....
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On the way up the Suldtal Valley, we are just passing through the area which will be the end of our hike, namely Aeschiried and Lake Thun in the background |
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Once again we are delayed by a cattle procession, moving them from one pasture to the other! |
VIDEO:
The little boys are all happy to be in the field,
as if it was spring-time and they had just come out of being cooped up all winter!
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As we arrive at the back of the Suldtal Valley, this is the final bus stop, a lovely restaurant which at this time of year is in full shade. We wanted to get going right away, so we didn't stop for coffee, but had a quick look at the features of the restaurant and the adjoining old water wheel before starting up the mountain. |
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Some interesting features on and around the Restaurant Pochtenfall |
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The old water wheel, in use since the 16th Century, previously provided power to tan hides and to work a sawmill, and now it powers 50 lamps in the restaurant |
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The trail markers indicate 15 minutes to the falls, and about 2-1/2 hours to the Brunni hostel, which is the point where we turned around and headed back out along the ridge and parallel to the valley bottom. |
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Altogether a 4-hour hike starting at the final bus stop at the back of the Suld Valley and heading straight uphill for about two hours to some beautiful upper meadows and to the Brunni Hostel, before heading back down to Aeschiried. |
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Starting on the uphill stretch. It was cold here without sunshine, so we walked quickly! |
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It took us less than 15 minutes to get to the falls. We were expecting something much more spectacular, but I guess at this time of year there is simply less water than in Spring. |
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I love bridges! |
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Through the trees, we got a nice view of Mt. Niesen to the West, with its spectacular funicular train. As a side note, next to the funicular line is a staircase, which is the longest staircase in the world, with 11,674 steps, and an altitude gain of 1669 meters from base to summit!! (3.4 kilometers) |
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After an hour climb, we finally made it to the sunshine where I had to change into lighter clothes! |
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This is a lovely upper alpine pasture. From here we could have continued to the very back and over the Renggi Pass into the next valley to the East. But we were worried about icy sections on the shadow side of the pass, so we headed up to the left instead. |
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Climbing higher now, we look down the Suldtal Valley. The mountain with the interesting bump is called Mt. Stockhorn |
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Below is the alpine pasture called Schlieri, which is the furthest back we went in the Suldtal Valley, before ascending on the North side. |
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Another view down the Suldtal Valley, this time with "Switzerland's Pyramid" (Mt. Niesen) in the background. |
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On this section toward the Brunni Hostel, large sections of the trail were in shadow, and were frozen and slippery, so we had to tread carefully. |
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The Brunni Hostel, closed for the season. This is apparently a popular starting point for Mt. Morgenberghorn in the background |
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Now we head westward parallel to the Suldtal Valley. We have to cross that hill ahead of us before descending. That's where we had lunch. |
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First view on the North side of the ridge, of the city of Interlaken, Lake Thun on this side and Lake Brienz further back. |
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This is where we had lunch, with a good view of the upper alpine pasture at the back of the Suldtal Valley, and the Brunni hostel which we passed before coming this way. The red dotted line show basically where we walked. |
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Now it's all downhill to the wide open region at the foot of Mt.Niesen and the entrance to the Kander Valley toward the left. |
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Our trail here was VERY muddy and we had to watch out not to slip. But the mud showed clearly that a deer of some kind had recently used the hiking trail as well! |
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Beautiful open view of Lake Thun, with the city of Thun on its West end. |
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And an equally stunning view of the East side of Lake Thun, with Interlaken and then Lake Brienz behind it. |
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Close-up of Interlaken: The "city between the lakes", and the gateway to the popular Lauterbrunnen and Grindelwald Valleys to the South. |
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The spectacular panorama view which we had on our entire way back down to that next village below. This is also a good look into the Suld Valley below that, and the Kander Valley on the very left. |
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The Kander Valley (Kandertal) |
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Straight ahead below is Aeschiried, where our hike ends and we can take a bus to the train station in Spiez, which is nearby along the lake. |
VIDEO:
Panorama of this beautiful area as we descend toward Aeschiried
(Unfortunately, the video is a bit shaky)
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Perfect weather and view for one of our last hikes of the season!
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